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How do you know your ECM is fried/broken?

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Old 02-16-2007, 01:41 PM
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How do you know your ECM is fried/broken?

Hi,

I have a 1989 Camaro RS V6 LB8 4spd Auto... It was getting some codes, 13 and 32 so I cleared the computer, replaced my O2 Sensors, and cleaned my MAF with MAF Cleaning Spray, and that got rid of 13 and 32, but then now I was getting Code 33 (high idle I think)...

Well, I had a code reader plugged in and I forget that it was plugged in and I accidentally tried to start the engine... Well, now I cleared the computer by unplugging the battery, and now all I get is Code 12... I didn't do anything to get rid of Code 33, but my SES light is still on when the engine is off... It's never on when I engine is on...

Is my ECM dead? Also I just calculated that I get about 10-11 MPG which is horrible for a V6, but I think I got close to the same mileage before I had messed up...

My idle is still fairly high (~2000RPM) and sometimes it takes a good 2-3 sec crank to get the engine to start (it was like that before I messed up as well)...

I've been told that it might be a vacuum leak, but I'm not sure how to look for those...

Any thoughts?
Old 02-16-2007, 04:37 PM
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
If the ECM does a SES blink at key-on, engine-off, and you can flash codes, that is a good sign. The other part would be to see if the ECM reports the proper information to a scan tool.

As for the high idle it may be a bad IAC or as you said a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak on a MAF car is double bad as it is unmetered air.

As for the long crank time check that the fuel pump turns on for 2 seconds at key-on, engine-off. Otherwise oil pressure needs to build to turn on the fuel pump.

RBob.
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