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Many years ago, I converted my 87 L98 A/C v-belt setup to an 88+ style serpentine. However, I kept the evaporator and hard A/C line from the 87, mixing in the lines from the 88+ that attached to the compressor. This worked decent enough. Fast forward and it's been over a decade since the A/C parts were on the car and several were left open to the atmosphere. So, I'm looking to buy all new parts to go back on the LS1 that's going back in the engine bay. Will be using a Sanden compressor and would love it if the new lines mounted to the back of the compressor better than some of the setups I've seen.
Old style evap (and drier?) with old style hard line and new soft lines
I'm noticing that the 88+ had a different style evaporator and hard A/C line that places the line higher up near the top of the drier. Seeing that I need to replace everything but the A/C line already, is there reason to go ahead and get everything matching 88+ style? On the 87, the hard line runs under the drier and tucks nicely out of the way. It seems like the 88+ have it off to the side of the drier a little higher up. Why'd they change? Obviously mine worked, but was it suboptimal or something?
Will likely be making a big order from Original Air and want to make sure I get what I need. The rubber/crimped lines section has seen better days so I'll try and find one of those too. If you folks have some good advice on getting everything for such a job, it would also be appreciated.
Thanks!
Last edited by 3.1EyeCandy; 04-18-2021 at 06:28 PM.
Best thing to do with the rubber lines is, cut the crimp ferrule off with a hack saw or wizz wheel, and get some of the barrier AC hose (practically, polyethylene tubing coated in rubber) which you can then cut to length; and use 2 of the real AC hose clamps at each junction. Not, the cheeeeep little weenie POSs hanging on cards at AZ or whatever; but REAL AC hose clamps. I suppose you could even make them all up except for that last stage, and then take them somewhere to somebody that makes AC lines (lots of old-style parts stores still do or at least know who does), and have them crimped on with new ferrules.
That's assuming of course, that the metal line sections you have, are compatible with your new setup. Otherwise you could try going to the junkyard and just looking around for some pieces that will work better for you. Odds are good that the section that bolts to the compressor can come off of a truck or something in the junkyard, and you can use it as a raw material.
As far as 87 vs 88 I haven't a clue. Functionally I can't see how it would make any difference; maybe they changed it to make it more universal with some other vehicle type or engine or something. After all, fewer parts that fit more applications, is better for mfg than every part having to be different for no reason other than fitment.
Thanks sofakingdom. I'm going to start digging into the what makes the Sanden and "Sanden style" compressors all that different and likely make an order from Original Air that has just some of their stage 3 kit, along with a real Sanden compressor. Maybe I can find something which will pair up nicely with the 3rd gen lines. Lots of reading to do...
The stage 3 kit does seem to come with everything. However, I want to understand and figure out good options for the following:
The Sanden compressors from them mount the hoses on top. I want to see if there are other optioned compressors that mount from the back and fit any better. I'll need to dig into the LSX swap forum for any examples. But at a minimum the hoses that come with the kit might not work as-is.
I'm likely going to use the Holley high-mount accessory bracket for my LS1 to mount a Sanden compressor. I'm not certain that all Sanden mount the same, but they probably do. Even so, I won't need all of the brackets, bolts, and belt that come with the stage 3 kit as they don't work with the LS1.
Not sure what orifice tube is included with the kit. Most folks here prefer some Ford parts to the GM one.
I intend to tie into the LS1 harness so that the compressor can be turned off at higher RPM and the RPMs bumped at idle if the A/C is on. I believe some are using a different type of switch for this.
Obviously the last two points above are minor and probably aren't much cost difference. Doesn't hurt to know before you buy though. I'm moving slow as it is and have enough "spare" parts in the garage already
04-18-2021, 06:13 PM
