DirtySpleen

I know that our cars are, for the most part, bottom breathers when it comes to cooling. I feel this is detrimental to its low-speed cooling abilities, and am curious as to whether it is possible/efficient to somehow convert to a front breathing system. The lower air dam seems like it would only work at higher speeds, and wouldnt flow air in an efficient angle to cool the rad. Just brainstorming, Thanks!

Ron U.S.M.C.

The air dam also does not work at a dead stop. That's why your fan or fans must be configured IMO differently than the "insane" stock setting/settings.

If your fan/fans are still at a stock setting with a stock thermostat then that's where I would be brainstorming to reach your goal. Configuring the primary fan to a lower "on" setting (190*)with a (180* thermostat) and having the secondary fan as your back up would be considered a efficient front breather.(at least mine is)

My basically stock engine is using a new stock type radiator and that is working fine for me.
A thicker 2 row version could be necessary.

Side note = My IROC-Z has two large holes in the front of the car supplying air to the radiator but the fans must be set correctly to take advantage of that..

Some other makes/model cars have primarily solid fronts and do rely on the air dam/opening much more and desperately need the fans/etc set correctly.

DirtySpleen

Im actually using the stock large single fan wired to a toggle switch so i control when it runs. Its a pretty good system minus the fact that i really need a new radiator lmao! Im sure dual fans would be even better.

Dakota W.

In stock form, the dual electric fan cars don't actually use the fans at speeds over 45mph (IIRC). There are a few threads of people changing things to improve cooling efficiency. What interests me most is tilting the radiator to face downward and having a hole in the hood to extract heat from the rad. I eventually want to play around with it, and I think I'm going to attempt removing the center part of the grill and bumper and going with an aftermarket LED light bar to use as fog lights.

Ron U.S.M.C.

That 45 mile per hour is IMO laughable. What makes someone think that a puller fan is not needed to PULL that air "through" the radiator.
GM technician’s I guess.

Dakota W.

It works quite well surprisingly. With my LB9 and all aluminum 3row rad I would never see 190+ on a 50* day.

Ron U.S.M.C.

DirtySpleen ,or any one.
A very simple way to make your fan come on at any temperature you want is to take the ground wire of the fan that is connected to the switch in the head off and ground it to the car. Then cut the ground wire in the middle somewhere and install a simple temperature sensitive adjustable fan controller. One side of the cut wire goes to one side of the controller and the wire on the other side also connects to the controller. Other than pushing a probe into the radiator THATS IT. The probe installs in the radiator to tell the switch when to come on off. Telling it when to come on is totally up to you. You control it by adjusting the **** on the controller .It turns the fan on and off so you don't need that switch. It can be done using a $20.00 controller.

Anyone that wants to do that with a single fan can do it.


There is also a slightly different independent circuit that can be used with high amp fans and also uses a $20.00 controler

Heres the conroler used in both =http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...67187_69565_0_

DirtySpleen

Dakota would you recommend a 2 or 3 row? I know that 3 has more surface area to cool, but the 2 row flows air easier for lower speeds. Hmmmm.

Dakota W.

For a stock engine a skinny 2 row is fine, if it's modified I'd say either a wide 2 row or a 3 row rad. If you buy a quality all aluminum rad, I wouldn't be worried too much about how much it flows, because ultimately you'll be limited by how much your fan pulls. Plus, a quality rad will flow plenty.

guitarman2

I have one of those adjustable thermostats with the 180* engine thermostats and it works great. It has a range of 160 to 220 with a thermocouple you insert into the radiator fins. I ran the ground wire to it.