calgutie

iTrader: (3)

Alright guys so today i picked up a fan from a V6 Taurus and it only ran me $35 @ the junkyard I tested the fan and it works now I am looking for a "painless wiring" kit to switch from my clutch fan to this electric fan. I am not really looking to spend over $150 on the wiring if possible..You guys recommend anything? thanks!~

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

Topradman may be able to help. IIRC he makes the harness & relays.
abray1 put 1 in too.

Hopefully they will post.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

Ye I hope they post lol...Im looking for one kinda asap kus i wanna get this fan wired in already.

Ron U.S.M.C.

What auto parts stores are near you, that way I may be able to search there inventory.AutoZone, O’Reillys, what?

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (2)

I used this controller to run Escape fans on my 01 Silverado. They are two speed and I ran them on high speed. I actually burned up two controllers because of the current draw on high speed. What I did to counter act that was use the wire that's supposed to turn on the second fan to trigger a second relay. Now all is well. These fans dram a TON of current. So much that my volt gauge actually fluctuates as they cycle. My air works better now and since I scrapped the clutch fan I actually gained mileage.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...fan+controller

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

I see, so whats the big difference between this $35 and the the $80 on summit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-75021/overview/

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

and what woud be ideal temps to run my car @..I was thinking of getting one that turn the fan on @ 195 an turns off @ 185

Ron U.S.M.C.

The one at summit is non adjustable and you have to thread in the thermostatically controlled switch ether in the head replacing the old stock switch or into the radiator. It’s hard to tell without seeing the directions .And it is $ 49.00 dollars more. I would go with an adjustable like the one listed above. I have two adjustable thermostatically controlled switches and I had to wire/add relay for each. With the kit he listed the relay is already included/wired into it and all you have to do is connect the wires to the appropriate places and you’re done. Imperil seems to be made by Hayden and there part # for it is #3647. Here are the directions. Just right click on it and rotate and then magnify.=
http://www.haydenauto.com/Upload/Hay...ontrollers.pdf

I ran part # 226204 through both OReillys and AutoZone and both came back with the controller listed above. You should be able to use that number or # 3647 when looking for it.
As far as setting the switch I would set it at 190* with a 180* thermostat.
There is a very simple way of setting the switch to the temp you want by turning the switch down all the way then warm the car to 190*.When that is reached slowly turn the controller dial until the fan kicks on. Done. I would call around for a shop that will use an info red temp gun on your engine preferably at the temp sender unit to see if your gage is correct. Should be free.

topradman

Here is a basic wiring diagram you can use for that fan and also a picture of what I do with same thing only new motors and I build the shroud and fan mounts, the only used part is the blade. That big Ford fan is cooling the 57 you see pictured with a 4row 1" tube 2 pass radiator I built so that fan should work awesome in your car. I would use at least a 50amp circuit breaker and not a fuse for that fan, no less. I would use a heavy duty relay as well and 10ga wire minimum. That particular fan can draw a lot of amps just to start so do not lack on the power & ground. You do not need a controller unless you just want to spend extra money. If your fan has 3 terminals you should only need the 2 outside terminals. With the fan facing away from you, the left terminal should be ground and the far right terminal should be power. I have never use the center terminal as it shouldn't be needed for what you are doing. ( I have seen these on some applications that just plain didn't use the center terminal at all in the harness either. ) Vintage Air used to sell these motors and blades ( well, the Lincoln Mark IV version ) with their brackets and shroud and called them a "Monster Fan" and monster they are indeed. I have heard, however, that the Taurus is not as aggressive as the Mark IV version but have never actually compared the two side by side. Either way, this fan should kick the crap out of your original assuming you had a single fan in the 1st place. Good luck on your project !!..... Oh yeah, make sure you are not running so much electrical that your alternator can't keep up. If you have a lot going on such as big stereo, big fuel pump or pumps, aftermarket computers/controllers and AC, you may want to look into a bigger alternator as well. Beware of cheap internet junk on that topic. A lot of overstated and outlandish claims on "high out put" alternators.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Is this something he could use ? It can also be found at Jegs proformance but this gives a better description =
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...FWQ6QgodEB4AQg

Ron U.S.M.C.

Never mind. The amps will most likely not be high enough as you stated.
Don't they make a kit for his application that's plug_and_play for a decent price?
I have searched for a controller kit to fit his description with no luck.

topradman

Personally, I would skip on the controller. I have never had an instance where I needed to use one to date. I have worked within one vehicle that already had one on it that was sensed off of the procomp gauge but wasn't that impressed with the way it worked, I mean, it was ok, but seemed not necessary other than it didn't require an extra temp sensor other than the one for the gauge.

Ron U.S.M.C.

One of the things I like about aftermarket fan controllers is that they are independent of the stock system. Other than the 12 volt ignition source for the relay the wires stand alone. If you do have a problem there simple to track down and don't have to worry about damaging the stock system especially with a fan as large as his. One thing to consider when choosing a fan is noise. Most fans are whisper quiet but some like the one the PO used in my car you can actually hear it when it kicks on. Never bothered me before because I had it as a backup fan if the temperature reached stock temps of 223* or so. Its now the primary and it will be replaced.

topradman

Hi Ron, with the fan he wants to use, it will have to be wired independent of the stock system anyway. None of the stock wiring components are heavy enough for this fan except for a ground sense trigger wire & keyed hot for the relay. As far as noise, most really heavy duty fans are going to be audible anyway however, FMC felt this fan blade was quiet enough to use on their oem Luxury Lincolns and Fords as well. Most Lincoln owners are in the big car luxury club so I don't believe noise will be a huge problem with this fan. May here it some but blades are staggered which reduces noise. Biggest contributor to the noise situation might be the difference in the quality of the underhood blankets on the Lincolns & Fords where as most of us don't have any sound deadening material like that on the bottom of our hoods.

topradman

[ATTACH][/ATTACH]I also used this fan on all these applications, all supercharged, and many more. Worked very well. (Black blown 502 57 street, purple blown 632 Merlin street, 572 blown Datsun ( that is not me, just my shop. I am uglier than that, LOL )

Ron U.S.M.C.

WOW, Really nice cars. You’re not going to be hearing any fan over those.

As far as fan sound goes it’s really too bad about mine because it’s only a14in puller mounted over a large combo cooler then to the new OEM radiator. It and the 16in pusher in front are each independently wired with adjustable controllers.The puller that makes the noise is primary and on at 190 with a 180* stat. The pusher is on at 200* and between the two it stays there or below. That little fan has got to go though because I can hear it above the engine and a Flowmaster 80 series cat back. I love to listen to the car and as I said it’s got to go. I would hate to see someone go through all the trouble of wiring in a fan just to find they can hear it over the car. I think I will secure the new fan to a nice level piece of driveway and run the wires directly to the battery to make sure it’s quiet enough before I go through the trouble of mounting it. I recommend that to anybody thinking of putting in a fan.

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (2)

I just added this to my 85 Iroc......

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ing+fan+switch

I removed the factory Collins fan relay and wired this In place of the factory relay. I installed the probe into the top of the radiator as close as I could get it to the right....the probe wiring is only about two feet long. I still have to get it adjusted just right, but it was 85* here yesterday and the car never got over about 195* ish, with a 180* stat.

I soldered and shrink wrapped all the connections, then saw the factory fan ground. I removed it and saw it was all painted over under the screw. I cleaned it all off with the Dremel and put it all back together. It works great! Reasonably priced switch and took an hour to install.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!