When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I used the 8 rib pulley with the 6 rib belt. No issues so far, and it's been several years. Just had to line up the pulley with the others, which was not much of a problem.
Yeah, same here. Don't even really notice it unless you're looking for it...
Glad I found this thread and will end up going this route I've been by the Sanden plant in Wylie, a buddy has a shop that's around the block from them. The last few R4 compressors(Delco no less) didn't work took 2-3 to get 1 to work right no fun doing more than once! the DirtyDingo looks like the way to go for mount bracket adapters. Thanks Darbysan and the others for your legwork much appreciated!
I see some with black pulleys and others with silver. Are you guys with the black ones painting them yourselves or is there a special part number to get black?
So whats the verdict on doing this swap with tall valve covers? I'm guessing you would need to make brackets that extend it out even further then the dirty dingo brackets take it?
Thank you guys for pioneering this!! I just finished installing the Sanden and new everything! I used the Dirty Dingo mounts for the compressor and they worked beautifully! But what I really wanted to add to this, is the condenser that I ordered. I really wanted a parallel flow, but just couldn't justify the $300 Original Air wanted for theirs. So I just ordered a Spectre stock replacement. And THAT SUCKER IS A PARALLEL FLOW!!! SUPER CHEAP!! $80.99 at Summit! I meant to take a pic before install, but sorry got excited about finishing it all up! Anyway part number for condenser is below. Pic on all websites shows it as tube and fin, but it's Not! Thanks again guys!! Cant wait to freeze to death!!
Spectra Premium Air Conditioning Condensers 7-3231
Hi everyone, I'm in the process of swapping AC into my 89 RS (original non-AC car), everything has been going relatively smoothly, and I'm looking at the used R4 out of the pile of parts I have thinking it's a time bomb if it works at all. This swap looks very appealing, however, I'm wondering what you do about the lack of a high-pressure switch on the Sanden compressor? From reading I've seen mentions of either jumping the connector where it used to plug into the R4, or using the high-pressure switch on the hardline that was originally meant for a dual-fan setup? I was wondering if someone could let me know in a little more detail what is involved to get this working, and if the solution is to simply short the connector, is this dangerous in any way?
I've had the Sanden on the car now for many years without the High Pressure cutout switch on the compressor. R134a runs at a higher pressure than the R12 did, and the compressors are made to handle it a little better. The Sanden I installed has a high pressure relief valve on the back, and I accidentally triggered it one day when working on adjusting my fan cut on temps int he programming on the ECM. The fans did not turn on, and my pressures climbed rapidly to over 400, where the relief valve opened allowing a blast of R134a to escape, along with some brown stuff in my shorts! No damage to the system. A slight re-charge and all has been well. Bottom line is that I think you will be fine to run without the HPCO switch in the compressor. I used the High Pressure switch in the high side line to trigger my high speed on the fans.
However, if you feel you need it, I think if you dig deep enough with Sanden you may find a rear head that has a port for the HPCO- that memory popped up out of nowhere, but at my age, that happens a lot. One other memory, regarding the trinary switch, it that it is located on the low side for pressures, and I don't think it will solve the HPCO issue you are looking to resolve.
I have been running mine without a high pressure switch no issues. I did end up taking the variable oriface tube out and put in a blue oriface tube. My pressures were too low on the low side and too high on the high side, no matter what I did. I am very happy with the blue oriface tube. I live in Houston TX where it is hot and humid most of the year.
Thanks everyone for the responses! It sounds like the solution is simply to not use the high-pressure switch, but it's good to hear that there is some form of relief valve as darbysan mentioned. I also found a set of instructions for installing an OAC kit from classic auto air that instructs bypassing the switch on page 8, and this kit seems to use a similar style compressor.
Bumping up this older post as it was instrumental in my Sanden conversion last year. In the middle of an engine swap and now have taller valve covers. There have been questions about will it fit with taller valve covers - with the aluminum covers I'm using and the Dirty Dingo brackets listed in the earlier postings, the Sanden did fit with one important change. I flipped the brackets from the original position (and as listed in their instructions). That provided enough positioning to clearance the valve covers.
NOTE: The valve covers I'm using shouldn't be considered "Tall" as those that fit bigger rocker arms and valve train components. They are the standard height, but do not slope down at the ends like the traditional covers (I think).
I was thinking I'd need to create a new set of brackets to position the Sanden further away, but there is enough space once the brackets are flipped. Hopefully these pictures will provide better detail than my ramblings! Dirty Dingo brackets in the original position. Brackets flipped so longer end was between the compressor and the original mounting hole. This rotated the compressor out of the way of the valve cover. Enough daylight to work!
Because of the Sanden's outward positioning, my original belt did not fit. I found the Gates Micro-V K061000 to be a perfect fit.
Thanks again to darbysan for figuring all this out!
Finished up my conversion today. Replaced the stock R4( third one in 6 years) with a new Sanden FLX7 compressor. Install was very easy, especially if you have already converted to R134a and have the Parallel Flow Condenser ( a must with R134a in my opinion). Attachment 359711
The Sanden compressor is model 4864 (SD7H15HD-FLX). I chose this particular compressor because the stock F-body hoses I was using will fit with only a little tweak to the connection at the Accumulator. It is also a 7 piston compressor as opposed to the Sanden 508 (5 piston) that is commonly used in retrofits, and is a little larger in overall capacity. The connector has a built in Diode. I bought mine locally, but they are available on-line as rebuilts or new, and there are also "copies" available. Here's one of the places that had a good price online: http://www.truckerac.com/sanden-flx7-r17134033708.html
You will need to make some brackets, or buy them already made. The kit is $60 at VintageAir.com, and after doing it manually, I think the kit is an OK value. Hardware alone cost me $20. http://www.vintageair.com/INSTRUCTIO...s/901805_a.pdf
In my application, the Serp belt I had would have been usable, but was at the limit of the "stretch" marks on the tensioner. I bought a belt that was 6K965 vs the 6K980 I was using. It's worth trying your belt before buying a new one.
Charging was as normal for an R134a system. I was seeing temps in the mid to high 30's at the vent, with high pressures at 2 times ambient. Overall, very quiet compared to the R4 that was on it's way out.
May be a dumb question, but in what vehicles did this 4864 compressor come from? I work at a parts store and get a 20% discount. Thanks.
My original R4 is at the end of its 54K mile life and I’m going to stash it in a box and install a Sanden. Any last minute updates on this conversion before I go in deep?
01-08-2019, 02:16 PM
no fun doing more than once! the DirtyDingo looks like the way to go for mount bracket adapters. Thanks Darbysan and the others for your legwork much appreciated! 
