Fionnla

For those that are having cooling problems with a Vortec Engine installed in a 3rd Gen, I thought I'd add my setup that works. Maybe someone has already posted something similar. But thought it might help some new members.

Parts:
Water Pump with inlet fiting at the top.
Heater Hoses.
GM OEM Themostat 180 degrees.
180-200 degrees switch for Electric Fan.

Run heater hose from rear pass side of intake to heater inlet. (Firewall).
Run heater hose from outlet for the heater to the Radiator.
Run short bypass hose from front pass side intake to top inlet on the
water pump.
Drill two real small holes on each side of themostat. Allows some water to
bypass when themostat is closed.

Ran this setup since spring through the hot summer (95 degrees) in traffic and engine stayed between 180 and 200 degrees. Stayed just around 190 degrees on highway with Airdam in place in front. Good enough for me.
Hope this helps some who are having problems.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

I know this is off topic but how well are you liking the Vortec motor?

Fionnla

On the question... How do I like the 350 H.O. Vortec?
Except for the cooling problem in real hot weather, fixed that and it's been ok.
It has a Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake with a 650 BG Speed Demon with
manuel secondaries. It also has hedmen Headers & MSD Ignition.
It runs ok except the Carb is hard to tune. Either to lean or to rich.
I fiddled with it a lot and got it running ok. Runs best with Timing set at 14 degrees BTC.
It has lots of power, with same setup rated by Car Craft at 370 HP.
Lots of Med range power.
Hope this helped.

novaderrik

you could also use the water pump gasket as a template to drill the 3/8" bypass hole in the block to essentially turn it into an older block and then you wouldn't need to have any other bypass, but as long as the heater hoses are hooked up that is the bypass circuit.

system155

nice set up i got a vortec 350 as well but might rated at 330 hp. ive had heating problems with my to cant really tell what well help my yet b/c my trans was slipping shortly after i put it in. i probably have to more then that i live in vegas where in the summer it get about 120

maccladehup

i live in vegas aswell. im doing a 355 vortec tpi i did the intake water pump bypass is that enough? or do i need to drill holes in thermostat?

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

No holes needed, the TPIs stock bypass works great.

system155

If u do go whit that make sure u have a dual core rad and dampener and it won't hurt if u put a dual fan set up on it b/c u no how it get during the summer

maccladehup

what is a dampener?

system155

its a piece of plastic or metal that go in front of the rad

maccladehup

Ok the air dam

bamabiker345

Hey tryin to research this and came across this thread. What kind of radiator are you using, the stock? I have an 86 iroc, put in a bored Vortec 350 that was rated at 450 hp, can't control temp for nothin. From playing with timing and tuning, 180 thermostat, even runnin 2 small very powerful fans in front of the rad and the stock fan behind the rad. Still using the stock rad and was looking for a bigger one but wasn't sure where to start as far as that goes. Temp will climb to 190 pretty fast, then city will stay about 200, I hop on the highway and it jumps on up to 220+ forcin me to stop and cool Down. I have no ac no heater no extras, hooker headers that was a pain to fit around the starter. Anyways what kind of rad are y'all using?

Fionnla

I also use a stock Radiator with Dual IROC Fans, that kick on at 200 degrees and off at 180 degrees. Be sure there is a AirDam in place. If not it will run hot at highway speeds. Have no problems...
Attached pic with reply.

bamabiker345

Hmm yeah I don't have the airdam thing, been lookin for junkyards with camaros but none in north bama. And u mention dual iroc fans... Hmm mine only had a large single but like I said added 2 new fans to the front. Once it heats up after highway use it won't cool below 215 unless I stop for a while. Also all my fans are bypassed to stay on all the time. I'm kinda thinkin with my set up the stock 2 core copper brass rad isn't large enough to handle the bigger motor. Surely that airdam alone wouldn't be why it gets 220 and up on highway.

Also in the nose of the car right in the middle where it says "camaro" to each side of that I have just open holes, is there supposed to be an extra part in those holes to keep the air directed right into the rad?

bamabiker345

Lol just noticed this thread was from 2012.. Kinda old huh. Oh well. Been a long day. Thx for replyin to me though

Fionnla

That's ok...I still E-mails from this thread..Goodluck.

Fionnla

I haven't looked in a while but I believe mine bolts to the cross brace just in front of the Radiator. Yes you need the Airdam or it will get hot at highway speeds. Most will anyway. Goodluck with your setup.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

What water pump are you using?

bamabiker345

Hey again, I made some custom airdams from random stuff found at lowes, didn't really help any. Ended up getting a champ 3 core rad and my temps finally dropped down to 190 highway, 195-200 slow city depending on traffic. The rad seems to make the biggest diff. Thanks for the info on the airdams