Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

I am taking apart my car to restore/rebuild it. Currently trying to remove everything from the engine bay so I can repaint it and drop in a new engine/trans combo. I will need to remove all of the AC equipment (see photo). I called a few places and I don't think anybody can discharge cars AC at your house. You must take it to a shop due to size/cost of recovery equipment.

Is there a way I can remove all of the AC equipment as one unit and set it aside? I don't think this is possible since AC radiator unit is attached to compressor with hard lines. Would be hard to safely rest it on ground. If not, could I crack a line/valve and bleed the freon? I would loose my R12 charge but be able to take AC items off the car and store them. I am not sure how much R12 I have left. Maybe I could bleed a valve first and see how much comes out. I've read that you can rent small vacuum pump and gauges at Autozone to get rid of moisture before you store AC equipment. Any help would be appreciated as I am at a stand still removing items from my engine bay until I get this resolved.

Please no posts about EPA regulations or how bad venting R12 is.

l_dis_travlr

Taking it off intact will be difficult, if not impossible. And the likelihood of
breaking something while trying is also better than average. Since you
want to salvage it, can we assume you intend to re-install it? If so, take
this opportunity to install a new compressor, for which your old one is pretty
well assured to have lost efficiency. (Can't maintain a high enough differential
between hi & lo sides.) Cmpr costs between $120 to $250, lowest being
import quality, highest being OEM replacement quality. Do your own research,
and Caveat Emptor.

When the system is opened, common practice is to
replace the dryer/filter (~$25, if memory serves correctly.)
Do not open until final installation, so exposure to atmosphere
is minimized. The expansion tube is also very cheap insurance.

Once opened, the lines & condensor can be cleaned by flushing w/
lacquer thinner, till solvent runs clear. Then thoroughly blow dry.

Not wishing to engage in any urinating olympiads regarding the
morality of venting R-12, if you choose to do so, simply depress
one of the access valves. Hold a rag over it while discharging,
cause it will spray refrigant oil quite strongly.

Evacuation/re-charge are also explained elsewhere in the forum.

Good luck, and keep us posted.
kk

deadbird

Easily possible since all the A/C is run under the engine bay. Did it on my '84.

Andrew James

iTrader: (3)

I removed all as one piece.

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the responses. Yes I would like to take off and reinstall in the future. Sounds like I will have to vent the system, clean and store. If I get a new compressor, it may not be that much more to convert to R134. Oh well, just more $$ for the build

Andrew, were you able to store it as one unit. Compressor looks connected to the radiator with hard metal lines. Not sure how I would be able to store it. If I could, it might take up too much floor space.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I removed mine on my 89 formy 15 plus years ago and its sat on the shelf since.
Still has the org charge of R12 in it. I WILL NEVER EVER switch it to 134a.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

for those who wish to break multiple laws and vent the ac into the air, dont do it in a closed space. do it out in the open. the fumes will mess you up, and they linger FOREVER (not litteraly, but a really long time)

Andrew James

iTrader: (3)

Yes, but I had no intention of reinstalling or keeping the R12. I removed it as once piece because that is what I've always done when removing a/c from my vehicles. After removing it I usually disconnect at compressor and let it out.

I do not know if storing intact is any better.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

Id remove it as one piece then take it as the whole unit to a shop and have them clear it out.

NCGuy68

Wondering what you have aginst 134a - or are you sitting on a dump-truck load of r12?

travis401

iTrader: (1)

r134 in an r12 system isnt as good as r134 in an 134 system. it requires bigger condensors to work properly. youll never get the same temps with r134 in a stock r12 system as you will with r12 in it. and r12 isnt that hard to get.

NCGuy68

I'am well aware of the virtues of r12. Lord knows I've charged/recharged countless systems with it over the years. There are several conversion kits on the market that actually work quite well. Problem with r12 is its very expensive and you'll need a license to buy it legally. If you're talking about the stuff on the 'black market', go for it but I wouldn't recommend it. If you're caught, the fines aren't pretty.

robvano

iTrader: (3)

Our Iroc is charged with R12 and it runs so cold, you can see the air come out of the vents at times and down here in FL, it’s nice to have. I’d like to find a place that has a licensed recovery system to do the same as the OP and also be pro-active by doing some maintenance to the system. In the mean time, we’ll keep running the system periodically through the cold months to keep the seals lubricated.
Anyone have success recovering and reinstalling R12?

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

robvano, I easily found some car ac/radiator places around me that will recover systems. I tried to look for a mobile service but could not find one.


Well I finally made some progress this weekend. I tried purging via the schrader valve to see how much coolant was in the system. Not much gas came out of the high pressure port and I was able to bleed it off after a few times. Removing the ac/heater core cover from the firewall was a pain due to one bolt by the passenger header. Luckily the nuts attached to the screw were only hand tight. When I removed the cover, I notice that there was debris and pine needles inside the system. You can see in the one picture that the lower seal was not seated properly and let this junk in.

When I first bought my car I did not use the AC too much. It did seem a little weak when I did though. I also notice water underneath the passenger side carpet. I thought that maybe I had a crack around the windshield molding or firewall that was letting water in as the padding behind carpet by your feet would get soaked. I did not want to leave the car outside to find out it the water was due to rain or a ac/heater core issue. I don't know if the improver seal would cause that much moisture to get into my AC system. Think I will take apart the dash so I can check out the heater core area. I noticed that there was some dust inside the firewall assembly and the metal fins have started to rust. Not sure if these have to be cleaned or replaced to have ac work best.

I did some reading and there are two aftermarket R12 hybrid coolants that are supposed to work with R12 systems and not require a full conversion. I think I will try one of these and reuse the compressor as it appears in good shape.

http://freeze12.net/

http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm

robvano

iTrader: (3)

I'll try find one these recovery places nearby, and I hope the recovered R12 can be reinstalled. I’ll also look into the refrigerant info you posted, thanks.

I've recently came across some posts pertaining to moisture found in the same area. Is it possible the cause maybe a clogged condensation drain? I’m not sure if the drain exists on this car, but I have two other cars (non Camaro) that do have it located there. There are some posted cases where the door seal was the problem. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...938-water.html

Used compressors may work fine, but they all will leak overtime, due to wear.
That’s why it’s important the properly oil charge the system. I’d try to get a new one if possible. Rebuilt units are risky, unless you know they’re done right.

l_dis_travlr

Been there, done that.
A couple of tidbits that I hope will help.
Mine is a Formula, so the dash facia is quite different,
but I'd bet that the underlying construction & factory assembly
techniques are highly similar.

That being said, when removing the dash, it comes out MUCH
easier as a unit (with all the wiring, switches & ducting), than
trying to remove the internal components from the top (underneath
the dash pad). However, this requires separating the main wiring
harness at the bulkhead connector, and secondary connections,
(brake, ignition, turn-signal, cruise, courtesy lightsm etc.),
as well as the left side harness (tail lights, fuel tank, rear speaker),
and right side harness (rear speaker). This will also reveal any likely
wiring chops by previous owners.

A good way to test for heater core leaks is with a standard radiator
pressure tester, usually loaner from the major parts franchises (O'reilly,
AutoZone, etc.) You'll probably need to remove the carpeting, and
possibly the firewall insulation to see the leak. But if you have already
detected internal water, this is probably necessary to address those
issues. This will also reveal any floor pan rust issues.

When you get this far, removing the internal heater box is a simple matter
of 4 fasteners: two on the bottom of the box inside, and in the eng.
compartment, one nut on the side of the AC box, and one fastener inside
the AC box. I know the history or my vehicle, and the owners (brother
& sister-in-law) took good care of the vehicle. However, the inside of
the heater box was dismally dirty -- mildew, gunk, etc.
A thorough cleaning and applications of RustOleum and insulation will
greatly help cabin air air quality.

Hope this helps.
I took pretty good pics of all this along the way, so post up or PM if you
need anything in particular.

Good luck.

Sick92

No one is ever caught mr. law abiding citizen. Anyone can get their 609 in 5minutes....
And to the OP... as long as you aren't running an A/C shop in your garage, just vent the crap to the atmosphere while it's outside.

I was leak testing a car before, and charged the system, car was running cold duct temps for like 5 minutes then the condensor suddenly blew at the bottom.
Let's just say the whole shop had to evacuate because of the vapors.....that **** is not good to inhale.

And don't worry about the EPA and all those people who threaten you saying they'll catch you. As long as they didn't catch you on video deliberately doing it at home, then there is no way for them to fine you. They are not going to come to 1 person's house on a random day that only works on his 1 car to fine him, that's absurd. That's like saying the EPA is going to fine you for driving around without a cat on your car on a public road when you live in a state other than CA.

lolz