Moe87

i never use my A/C and freeing up some weight and space (for a future turbo/supercharger maybe?) sounds like a good idea to me.

I've heard there is a difference between early and later model F bodies related to the a/c but have not found any informative documentation so far.

If anyone has anything related to documentation of this AND perhaps a video or pictorial guide of an A/C delete for F Body, it would definitely start me on the right track.

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Second HUGE Question: if i remove my a/c system and all components (haven't researched what all that entails yet) Can i still get HEAT in the car, such as front defroster?

Dartht33bagger

Well I can answer the second one. You will not have a defroster anymore because the defroster uses the A/C to defrost your windows.

jchaussee

I don't have AC anymore and my defrost works. In fact it is all that works

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

The 1LE (factory no A/C) cars had VENT-HEATER-DEFROST on the dash. My old Sunbird GT was ordered with no air conditioning and it had the same layout (VENT-HEATER-DEFROST)


The deal with A/C and defrost is that if the temp outside is 40°F or warmer, the A/C will kick on when you select defrost. Below 40° and the A/C will stay off in defrost. It's not temperature related, but pressure related. It just so happens that at 40° is where it happens.

Put simply, the "low pressure cycle switch" shuts off the compressor at 25 psi (around 40°F) on a stock vehicle. If it's say 20°F outside, the A/C won't cycle on in defrost mode. It wouldn't cycle on in NORM A/C or MAX A/C either for that matter. In fact, NORM and VENT would do exactly the same thing when it's 20° outside.

The only reason the A/C kicks on with the defrost during 40+° temps is to speed up the dehumidification of moisture on the windshield. If you take out the air conditioning system on your car, your defroster will still work. It works by heating up the windshield. It's just that you don't have the performance of adding heat to the windshield while getting the dehumidification from the air conditioning at the same time.


Here in the humid south, quite often at this time of year during the early morning drive to work, I'll run MAX A/C and move the cold-hot slider to the middle. It's about 60° but 90% humidity early in the morning. So I get the drying of running the A/C while at the same time get warm air blowing at me.

If you're wondering why the air conditioning shuts off at 40° in defrost mode, there are a few reasons.

1) Prevents the A/C from freezing up into a block of ice.
2) During summer, temps below 40° aren't needed (unless you like it frigid cold)
3) In winter, when in defrost mode, the air has so little moisture below 40°, that there isn't much point in dehumidifying the air.
4) Saves fuel by not needlessly running the A/C.

Moe87

I live in Pa where the summers i spend mostly indoors and really only venture outside in fall/winter/early spring.

Its rarely humid here, and i'm merely looking to get rid of my A/C which i NEVER even used in 6 years of driving, and keep the ability to let warm/hot air into my car during colder days (if needed).

If you say i can still use heat (which ultimately means defroster) then i'll be fine removing everything a/c related.

Now i just need an a/c delete pulley and some pictures to guide me

camaronewbie

If you have a serp belt system, you'll have to get an A/C delete pulley, NAPA usually has them for $40. Just yank out the compressor and replace with the delete pulley.

If you want to get fancier, you can get an A/C delete box about $180, and replace the box on the firewall with the smaller non-A/C box. Can also take top radiator support off, tilt rad towards engine, and get the A/C condensor out from in front of the radiator. That's it.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

He has an 87, so he only has a flat belt on the alt an d a set of V belts for the rest. You can simply remove the AC and if desired the air pump too and use 2 short belts for the wp & p.st. pump.

Heat will still work!

You can remove the compressor and the heater box and swap in your old relay & resistor bridge and wiring, use the non AC blower motor w/ the on AC heater box. I posted a topic about that w/ pics. It's all plug and play but you absolutely need the non AC blower motor, it's not the same. using the AC system w/ the hi speed blower relay will significantly improve the blower speed (and flow) compared to the non AC system. If you buy a complete box, simply discard the wiring and the resistor and use your original pieces.

Moe87

To clarify twin, i have an 89 if you were referring to me, but 87+ there was little change in design (aside from body on the birds).

I would be looking to remove as much as possible from the a/c system. There would be little point in just pulling one or two pieces out as id still be trucking around the extra weight.

Ive ordered an a/c delete pulley today from summit, the http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-34157/ but i didn't check the ribs on my serp belt to see if its the same (DOH!) so we'll see once it gets here.

So to clarify all the parts i need to identify and remove for the AC system is:

The compressor itself (located in the rear passenger side of the engine, cant miss it)
The condenser (should be in front of the radiator?)
evaporator (said to be in the fender well area somewhere passenger side)
Collector/Receiver (God knows where this is, just follow the high pressure pipe i guess)
The heater core (directly behind the compressor)
Blower Motor (also right behind compressor)
Then redirect some hoses possible or clamp them off. Does the engine oil run through the compressor at all?

Did i miss anything? Also, with the a/c deleted, will this affect my ecu at all in the car or is the a/c purely mechanical in our cars? Will i need to reprogram anything? Also, my a/c works perfectly as is, what do i do about the refrigerant already in it? Ive heard it is illigal to service it myself but is there a safe way i can take the refrigerant out myself without negatively impacting the environment?

I am using http://www.wikihow.com/video/wht/220...r-conditioning this video as an example to start my a/c delete, most of what he spoke about should apply to my car, just different placement of the parts and hoses.

jchaussee

Are you deleting heat also??

neeb_usmc

iTrader: (2)

I would hope not

JimKlim

your defrost will work fine your car uses your heater fan for defrost and all that jazz

Moe87

i am NOT deleting heat, at least not forever (its winter now :P)

I'll be purchasing a heater core box jigawhatsit once i fine a nice deal on these forums for it.

camaronewbie

Delete pulley you ordered looks right.

No need to remove the heater core - it stays in place.

You'll want to leave the the box on the firewall with all internal parts in tact (just disconnect hoses from it) until you locate an A/C delete box to replace it with. On the A/C delete box, you'll need the fan motor cage (what some call a sqiurrel cage) for the A/C delete box, as your A/C box cage is too big. You'll keep your re3lay, and your resistors and just move them to the new A/C delete box when you get it. Waiting here may be a week, a month, or a year - but they are available on ebay almost always, also check with thirdgenranch.com and hawks.

Nothing regarding the ECM is related, no chip programming or changes needed there.

It is illegal to let the refrigerant escape. It's worth a buck to an A/C shop - go to one and tell them if they evacuate your system FOR FREE then they can keep the refrigerant - it's R12 and is not produced any longer, and worth a pretty penny. DO NOT pay for an evacuation (unless of course they are going to GIVE you YOUR R12 refrigerant to take home, as it's very expensive now. If they aren't willing to do it for free, then screw Uncle Sam's stupid regulations and let it loose in the driveway - if Uncle Sam is so damned worried about it, then he can at least evac it for free. There's no way refrigerant eats the Ozone, it never rises higher than 3ft off the ground anyway. This would best be attempted at a Joe Blow shop, and not a chain retail store - a chain store will just laugh at you, charge you $70 to evac it, then they'll release it after hours anyway - a Joe Blow would actually resell it to another R12 customer for a nice price.

No hoses get redirected anywhere, they just get taken out. Heater hoses run coolant through them, A/C system is completely seperate and it's a sealed system - your rubber heater hoses all stay in tact and where they are.

kd5icr

iTrader: (2)

It is a snap to delete the AC.. I had little choice in the matter because my ac box was destroied by the PO. I got the delete box here, I posted a WTB ad in the classified area and had one in a week for 85 shipped. After I got and cleaned it up, I took the resistor from the old system and put it on, all I had to get was a new blower motor and wheel, I got mine from rock auto (35.00 total), it was cheaper to order it then to drive to the parts store and get it, as has been said you will need to get a different one than is in the car now.All I have left is to get a rid of the old ac braket as it also holds the PS. I can tell you now, you are going to love the room that you get from getting rid of all that crap.

mightymaro94

i feel really bad for them factory non a/c guys.

kd5icr

iTrader: (2)

Why would you feel bad? I dont have ac and my defrost still works just fine.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

the defrost only uses the AC to dry the air so it not only defrosts the outside but doesn't fog the inside. Without the AC the defrost still works just fine.