F41eatsFords

I have an 84 Camaro, LG4, stock cooling system, everything but heater core replaced. I nticed over the past few months a loss of coolant from the resevoir. couple of days ago noticed a few drips when I got home and the idler arm under the fuel pump wet in coolant. felt around a bit, tightened the hose clamp some more on lower rad hose at water pump, and the leak seems to have disapeared (no new drips, time will tell if there's coolant loss from res).

Here's the issue I'm a bit concerned about. starting right after I tightened the clamp, I noticed my coolant temp was running a few degrees higher than normal, once warm. Still within normal spec, but not normal for the car. the biggest thing it at wide open take offs and WOT on the freeway, the coolant temp rises another noticeable amount, and when I let off, it comes back down. still Within spec (maybe increases 5-10 degrees) but not normal for the car. The temp almost NEVER changed when warm, which is my reason for the concern. It's still a bit cool out, but I don't want this to become a big issue once summer hits; I'm worried about overheating then. Any Ideas what could be causing this? (btw, thermostat seems to be working normal). I KNOW this car's regular behavior, any small differences I pick up on and get paranoid about until I fix it. I was thinking maybe it's the cooling fan clutch? but idk, I'm doubtful. Please give me simple things I can check without tearing it apart; It's my daily driver until I can afford a second car this summer.

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

I wouldnt be doubtful of the cooling fan clutch. There should be some resistance to it when you turn it. If its freewheeling its shot.

F41eatsFords

still has some resistance, which is why I'm not really convinced. still spins fast enough to hurt you. idk, we've had a series of warmer and cooler days in the past couple weeks, and the behavior doesn't seem to differ much with the weather. I might try the thermostat when time allows (may not be opening all the way). It's not overheating. I ran it wide open today over a long run (3500-4000rpm). was up at 210 when I let off and went right back down to the new "normal" (195? normally 180-ish). Anyways, tuition's all paid up for this semester, so if a new 'stat doesn't do it, I can afford to try a fan clutch.

chads89ta

iTrader: (6)

maybe your total timing is a bit to much, or is running a little lean at high rpm

F41eatsFords

tried bringing back the timing last week, had no effect. could be a bit lean; O2 sensor, maybe? or the fuel pump? idk, everything was set the same last summer as it is now. shot carb cleaner down the carb to try and clean it. idle did pick up a bit with a small squirt, but that's always been the case. I also took off the rad shroud and hosed out the rad, but there wasn't anything but a but of fuzzy stuff on it to begin with; again, didn't change anything.

Here's another piece to the puzzle: occasionally when just cruising (not WOT) the thermostat opens (TCC locks up, so I know it's open) temp still climbs to about 210 before starting to go down, even after stat opens. Hope this helps.

The paranoya isn't nearly as bad as it was initially, bit still would at least like to know what to check. Thanks for all your help so far; like I said, when I get some time on my hands (or somthing goes wrong, whichever comes first, lol) I'll try a couple things. I only hope it's not the head gasket (want to get a new motor in 2011, don't want to put much time/money into this one). but I'm also planning on getting a second car (truck) this summer, so it won't be as big of an issue if the Camaro IS out of commission.

Right now the temp is consistent, just a few degrees higher than normal. the only time it fluctuates a lot is when the stat first opens and at WOT, which makes me think there's a restriction somewhere (like the thermostat). I could be wrong though; wouldn't be the first time

F41eatsFords

OK, so got home today and checked it out. I could hear it pinging at WOT with the window down coming home from school, so I retarded the timing a bit. I haven't been back on the road yet; will be later this evening. I also noticed the front pass side corner of the block was a bit wet and there were a few drips under the car in that spot; tie rod noticably wet underneath. no noticable reservoir level drop, but coolant seems to be seaping from between the block and the head, right at the very corner.

From what I've been able to find, the car's behavior is showing signs of pre-head gasket failure, just less severe than most I've read. Would I be able to just pop off the valve cover and re-torque the head bolts, or would that be a waste of time if it's to that point? It may not be the case and it's leaking from elsewhere and getting flung up as far as that spot. It was just as wet in that area when my WP was going bad last spring. idk, I'm so puzzled.

Can I reach all the head bolts by just taking off the valve cover, or do I need to move the exhaust manifold as well? Thanks

F41eatsFords

OK, this weekend I degreased everything that was wet under the hood to identify the leak area. After thrashing it a bit today, I've narrowed down the leak, (either fuel pump mount or trans cooler line) and it's definitely NOT coolant (taste test, yuck) it seems to be either oil or trans fluid. I'll post on the respective boards concerning that.

still not sure about the fluctuating temp, but I think it is 'stat related, so when I get around checking it out to it I'll repost.

F41eatsFords

drove home from work today with the O2 sensor unplugged. The reasoning was to force it to run rich to confirm or eliminate a lean condition. acted exactly like it was with the O2 sensor. Therefore, I've eliminated timing and a possible lean condition. I'll try to replace the 'stat Friday night so I can see what happens.

dirtywhiteZ28

Side tank gaskets are known to go out on the radiators, and they often won't be visable at first, unless the car is up to temp and the system is fully pressurized. If its small enough it will leak down the radiator on the passenger side, drip onto the lower rad support, and follow the sub frame to the idler arm area. Anothr possibility is the waterpump weep hole may be in the begining stages of opening up, and the system once again would need to be up to temp and under pressure. But this time it will mostly leak a small amount while the car is running and the wind rom the belts spinning will catch small drips and throw the coolant to the sub frame near the fuel pump and Idler arm.

F41eatsFords

no leaks any more, no loss of coolant whatsoever. The afore mentioned leak turned out to be an oil leak from the smog pump bracket bolt hole (removed 3 years ago, never really leaked noticably, go figure). Water pump and rad replaced within last couple years and both have life time warranty; had BOTH of those issues, which is why they were replaced. Only indication something's outa whack if the fluctuating temp. still haven't messed with it (chilly spell here in MI). prolly won't end up doing anything until it gets severe enough where the problem is obvious. Tends to be how it always works out, lol!

F41eatsFords

one thing I noticed when it was cooler out: Taking off WOT it actually cooled down. after letting off at speed, the temp slowly crawled up above "normal", then evened back out.

Checkerbelly

Hey I'm experiencing similar weirdness with my carbed 85 z28. I have a new thermostat and radiator, old water pump. I think I'm going to run without the thermostat for a day to see if the temp stays low.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is a radiator hose collapsing while you're driving. Which mine don't seem to be collapsing....

I'll let you know what I find out.

F41eatsFords

Thanks. Yeah, I reved the engine by hand while watching the rad hose, and it didn't seem to change. The hoses were fine last summer, but who knows. as long as nothing major happens in the next couple weeks. Then I'll be out of school and looking for a pickup as a daily, so having it down won't be a big deal. I just hope it's an easy fix.

Checkerbelly

Fixed mine. It was the temperature sender. I replaced the whole sender/gauge unit with an aftermarket one and found out the stock one was reading temps way higher than they actually were.

It was pretty easy. If you get a new stock sender, its like $16 at AdvanceAuto and quick to change. Especially if you can do it without draining your coolant.

I put a 195 degree thermostat in and my new gauge says I'm right around 195 degrees all the time.

F41eatsFords

Thanks. I might try that at some point. If that's all it is, though, I'm not too worried, but I think it's using small amounts of coolant. still hard to tell; might take another month before I can be sure.

Checkerbelly

Don't forget to look in the passenger footwell and around the heater hoses for coolant leaks. I just had to replace my heater core. I think it's pretty common.

F41eatsFords

Yep, been watching everything. I'm not 100% sure it's using coolant; it may just be all in my head when I look at the reservoir.

Checkerbelly

+1 points for proper use of a semicolon. On an internet forum no less! Good man.