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ConvertiblesDiscussed here are problems and solutions to convertible specific questions, including difficult to find part numbers and other convertible tech help.
Like most of these tonneaus, the solenoids seems weak and just don't work when you need them to. So i got the bright idea to put a spring on the plunger of the solenoid. Sandwiched between the body and the white cap. NO cutting or modifying of the solenoid was needed for this. I simply spread one end of the spring and slipped the end onto the cable. Then just rotate the spring and "thread" it like a bolt til the other end slips on.
The idea is the spring puts pre-load on the plunger, so when you flip the switch it automatically wants to pull the cable. Anyway here's a few pics, was gonna do a vid, but you get the gist of it....
This is the spring, one cut, one not (later on i cut a couple more coils).Hillman brand, # 406704.
Installed spring w/ cut off potion (4-4.5 coils).
Back on and works great. I barely have to touch the switch now and the tonneau pops every time.....all battery, no alternator. Enjoy.
Like most of these tonneaus, the solenoids seems weak and just done work when you need them to. So i got the bright idea to put a spring on the plunger of the solenoid. Sandwiched between the body and the white cap. NO cutting or modifying of the solenoid was needed for this. I simply spread one end of the spring and slipped the end onto the cable. Then just rotate the spring and "thread" it like a bolt til the other end slips on.
The idea is the spring puts pre-load on the plunger, so when you flip the switch it automatically wants to pull the cable. Anyway here's a few pics, was gonna do a vid, but you get the gist of it....
This is the spring, one cut, one not (later on i cut a couple more coils).Hillman brand, # 406704.
Installed spring w/ cut off potion (4-4.5 coils).
Back on and works great. I barely have to touch the switch now and the tonneau pops every time.....all battery, no alternator. Enjoy.
Great idea and it looks like it will really do the job. Mine doesn't need it but I will keep it in mind. That's what it is all about, using the ole' noggin. Thanks for that!!!
Very nice. Quite ingenious. I love solutions that are practical.
My issue has been with the "spring" or whatever it's called that holds the pin that goes through the tonneau. When I pull the lever, the top doesn't release. I have to drop the rear seat and manually force it to let go. Haven't seen anyone have the same issue. Very frustrating.
Have you tried spraying some liquid wrench or similar product. Mine used to stick a bit. So i took it apart and sanded the rotating parts smooth. Mostly to remove the surface rust. Then sprayed it with lube afterward. Been fine ever since.
Have you tried spraying some liquid wrench or similar product. Mine used to stick a bit. So i took it apart and sanded the rotating parts smooth. Mostly to remove the surface rust. Then sprayed it with lube afterward. Been fine ever since.
Haven't tried that. Not sure it that would help much or not, but its worth a shot. My issue seems to be with the rotating assembly/lever not rotating far enough. I'm not sure if the spring is not the correct tension or if the cable was stretched and just needs to be replaced.
That sounds kinda familiar. On mine the lever would not release the striker till the handle was pulled half way thru its travel. I noticed on the spring/lever there was a big gap, so i welded a small piece of metal to eliminate the gap. This way as soon as i pull the handle, the lever spreads the spring right away and releases the striker.
That sounds kinda familiar. On mine the lever would not release the striker till the handle was pulled half way thru its travel. I noticed on the spring/lever there was a big gap, so i welded a small piece of metal to eliminate the gap. This way as soon as i pull the handle, the lever spreads the spring right away and releases the striker.
Would you mind taking a picture of what you are talking about? Sounds like an relatively easy solution. I would greatly appreciate it.
Ok, here's the pic. The curved metal right below the welded part is part of the lever. This is what contacts the spring (clevis) and spreads it, thus releasing the striker. The welded piece is how big the gap was
09-20-2022, 03:40 PM
