Dad9904

I’m having what I believe to be an issue with wot response. Here’s what I’ve noticed if I take off at a light and ease into the throttle slowly pushing until it’s wide open car behaves well pickup is consistent and smooth. Now if I’m driving on the freeway and I want to make a pass cruising at 65 then floor it the car makes a bunch of noise then after say 5 or 6 seconds decides it’s time to boogie. I’ve rebuilt the carb myself replaced it with a ez kit from Quadra jet power. I have three sets of secondary rods ch, dr and be with only one hanger which is k. I’m convinced it’s the secondary opening time but I’m nervous about adjusting the response in case I’m wrong. I’m currently running dr rods with the k hanger. Timing is set at 6 degrees only improvement is a 3 inch cat back exhaust single into a dual muffler. I couldn’t tell you the cam or if the heads have any work honestly I’m not concerned I’m currently building a 383 but would like the 305 to perform as it should unless I’m wrong and what I’m dealing with is actually normal. This is my first Quadra jet and based off past carbs it seems off. Is this typical of a Quadra jet to have a lag in response to wot and power?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Advance the timing. 6° is NOWHERE NEAR enough. Something around 12 - 15°, depending on how much carbon is built up on everything, will be more suitable. Butt who knows; if y our damper inertia ring has slipped like everyone else's, your "6°" of advance might well be more like 20° of retard. Just set it to where it runs the best and ignore the "number".

Tighten the secondary spring. Should be at least ¾ turn for a 305, more near 7/8 with a weeeeeeeeeeeeeek 305 like the LG4. It'll run crisper with more tension, generally, although it'll take a bit longer to come up to full power. Butt at least you won't have "QuadraBog".

erik69&85

iTrader: (1)

What he's saying is you are getting too much air and not enough fuel when you floor it. Tightening up the secondary air valve spring slows the opening of the secondary air valves, regardless of the throttle plate position. So you get less air and keeps the mixture richer. But if the engine can take more air, it can take more fuel.... And make more power.

You might want to try a richer secondary rod set...I have lots for sale on eBay if you are interested.... Rockall74.... Also, the rod hangar may not be aggressive enough...and the rods needs to be higher... But I run a K hangar on my 69 big block... So I doubt it's that...you probably need a more aggressive secondary set. Profiles vary, but if you are concerned about WOT... Look at the tip diameter...and tip length. Don't go too aggressive... It's still a 305...

Unless you are near flooring it, you rarely run in the secondaries... So a more aggressive set shouldn't affect normal driving...

erik69&85

iTrader: (1)

Btw... Had an 85 myself... Working on 2 quadrajets from 85 Camaros in my shop right now.... They have ch rods ... Very sedate....

erik69&85

iTrader: (1)

Just another idea... If you rebuilt the carb, did you replace the accelerator pump?... Even if you did, if you actuated the throttle while the carb was dry, you may have damaged the pump cup... I rebuilt a 72 carb recently... Ran it a little, pulled apart to change primary jets, and noticed the cup was ripped... Brand new...Had about 20 min of run time.... This means a smaller fuel shot with the pump .. and a lean condition when you open the plates...need that shot to enrich the mix...

Dad9904

[QUOTE=sofakingdom;6524190]Advance the timing. 6° is NOWHERE NEAR enough. Something around 12 - 15°, depending on how much carbon is built up on everything, will be more suitable.

So the timing has been a thing of question since I owned the car. The engine isn’t original what I found is the block is from an 83 c20 van most likely. Updating this to note the engine is a Le9 and can’t find base timing for it online at least with a cc quadrajet.. The stamp by the alternator is k0223 uck. Couldn’t find much about the motor other than a few old threads about timing being set between 0-6 so I went on the high side of that. I run 93 octane just because it’s only .60 cents more a gallon and I fill up every 100 miles driven to prevent sucking up sediment on the bottom of the tank. Let it run nearly empty one time and plugged the fuel filter had to change it on the shoulder of I 95.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Don't worry about what model it is. Don't worry about what it came out of. Don't worry about "find base timing".

Set it to where the car runs the best. "Spec" ISN'T that. Even if the timing mark system happens to be accurate, which the odds of THAT, are about .0001%.

Allow me to quote one of the GOATs in a totally unrelated field, who if he had been "setting the timing", and somebody had asked him how he knew whether he had it optimized, would have said:

"If it RUNS good, it IS good".

"Spec" for ANY ENGINE is not that. It's based on the factory's overly conservative estimate of its effects on emissions, sensitivity to altitude, emissions, compatibility with ALL POSSIBLE weather conditions in the area in which it was sold (for a US car, that would mean, everything from -40°F in ND in January to +120°F in Death Valley in July, and humidity all the way from 10% the Borrego Springs desert to 110% in New Orleans, and everything in between), emissions, CAFE, emissions, compatibility with the crappiest available fuel in 1983 (they didn't know about 2024 fuel back then), emissions, tendency to spark knock, emissions, and ... oh I'm dreadfully sorry I forgot to mention, the single most important factor to the factory was, EMISSIONS. If none of those things are YOUR priorities, then set it to where it runs the best, and ignore "spec".