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CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
So I bought this intake on ebay for $179.00 shipped. It's an air gap design, similar to the RPM air gap. I was curious if I could use it with my AFR 210 heads.
So it's actually not a bad casting, for people like me that do my own porting it's quite easy to hog this out to a 1206 port, and unlike the Edelbrock it actually will cover the port completely so no silly air leaks.
Planning on running this with my 4bbl EFI throttle body.
About the only negative thing I read in a list of reviews was regarding port alignment.
Perhaps it would be worthwhile to drop the intake in place and have a peak with an inspection camera.
It'd be a shame to do a gasket match and have an 1/8" offset. The gripe was with respect to one side only.
About the only negative thing I read in a list of reviews was regarding port alignment.
Perhaps it would be worthwhile to drop the intake in place and have a peak with an inspection camera.
It'd be a shame to do a gasket match and have an 1/8" offset. The gripe was with respect to one side only.
I could do that, though I'd think if the gasket centerline is right it's got to be aligned, no?
I suppose the gasket could be used as a sort of template. There's the risk of an error when transferring the dimensions but it could be done. I've an engine building book (by Vizard I think) that goes into detail about ensuring the head port and manifold port are perfectly aligned without the need for the gasket (other than to provide the required measurements).
What I found with the dual plane intake is that the inspection camera I have is too bulky to get around the bend in a few of the runners. A view of the head/manifold interface was impossible. That was a while back though and I've seen USB based cameras now that have extraordinarily tiny dimensions. They'd fit in there with no issue. This is my plan going forward on the next engine assembly I have brewing.
Remember too that with most of this offshore stuff we deal with is that one day the part is built well within tolerance. Other days, not so much.
I'll be interested in what you find.
I suppose the gasket could be used as a sort of template. There's the risk of an error when transferring the dimensions but it could be done. I've an engine building book (by Vizard I think) that goes into detail about ensuring the head port and manifold port are perfectly aligned without the need for the gasket (other than to provide the required measurements).
What I found with the dual plane intake is that the inspection camera I have is too bulky to get around the bend in a few of the runners. A view of the head/manifold interface was impossible. That was a while back though and I've seen USB based cameras now that have extraordinarily tiny dimensions. They'd fit in there with no issue. This is my plan going forward on the next engine assembly I have brewing.
Remember too that with most of this offshore stuff we deal with is that one day the part is built well within tolerance. Other days, not so much.
I'll be interested in what you find.
I do have a camera that would fit. I'll give it a try against my AFR 210 heads probably after Christmas and then start hogging it out.
I'm trying to get this C3 frame to a point where I can roll it in and out of the shop before I play with motor stuff. Too many projects, not enough time!
any update? curious as to how this intake worked out.
I ported it to a 1206 to match my AFR 210 heads.
I will say this, whatever it's cast out of is HARD. Even with new burrs, this thing was very difficult to cut vs tons of GM aluminum heads and other intakes I've ported.
Anyhow, aside from that, hogging it out to a 1206 port and the required cross sectional area is straight forward. Tons of material, and the casting isn't thin so it's good.
The parting lines in the casting act like little walls or shelves, and need to be smoothed out. You'll want at least 4" burrs. I probably spent an hour on it, then gave it a quick port polish and radius.
There is a stud on the back left side that needs to be reshaped a little bit if you wan to use flanged intake bolts. No big deal, take like .050" out of the radius and the bolt head clears.
I have this intake on my 412" sbc now, and I'm using a Holley Sniper. 500hp street combo (4 speed, corvette, 3.54 rear) in progress.
I have been thinking about using this intake with my sniper or milling the divider a bit on my regular edelbrock RPM performer. What route would you suggest I go?
I ended up with a low rise dual plane version intake. I need to 'mill' the divider too, after I gasket match the ports.
I'm planning on cutting the two plunging cuts with a simple cut-off wheel. then I will use an air powered cut off wheel that has been worn down and the tool's guard removed, to fit in the plenum a little, to make the horizontal cut. the corners where these sets of cuts meet wont' be complete, but its aluminum and the rest of the manifold is sturdy. So, just snap the cut piece off using some pliers. then finish/dress the cut edges with burrs, flatp wheel, or a air powered 3/8" sanding belt tool.
I have been thinking about using this intake with my sniper or milling the divider a bit on my regular edelbrock RPM performer. What route would you suggest I go?
Since your using an aftermarket TB unit, I'd go with the air gap. Sometimes carbs can loose a bit of drivabilty with an air gap.
I need to 'mill' the divider too, after I gasket match the ports.
I'm planning on cutting the two plunging cuts with a simple cut-off wheel. then I will use an air powered cut off wheel that has been worn down and the tool's guard removed, to fit in the plenum a little, to make the horizontal cut. the corners where these sets of cuts meet wont' be complete, but its aluminum and the rest of the manifold is sturdy. So, just snap the cut piece off using some pliers. then finish/dress the cut edges with burrs, flatp wheel, or a air powered 3/8" sanding belt tool.
That's basically how I did one and then radius it with a sanding roll. Many suggest that you try a 1/2-1" open spacer before you cut it, to make sure your combo will still be happy. In my opinion the cut divider is more of a WOT mod, depends what you want.
I am running a 1" spacer now and no issues but I also have a 4" cowl. I am going to a 2" cowl soon and plan on going to a 0.5" spacer and a milled divider.
What do you guys think about a port matched china intake vs a edelbrock? Looking at a HP test the pro comp did worse by a fair amount but I am doubting they modified it
The mag test is useful but only in showing that the same types/height are all close. Making my videos, I MYSELF buy the parts, they are not cherry picked and sent FREE to me like they would for a magazine. Now I imagine for those mag test some intakes may have just randomly been bought but some weren't and were just left over from past articles, even think one of them says it was port-matched. It would have been a better test to do it with a common 350-355 or at least a 383.
I myself have bought three brand new eddy intakes and the only one that looked good was the EPS, both rpm air gaps needed a lot of clean up. I've measured 3 air gap dual plane intakes of different brands and they all are different size runners & plenums. Anyways I've covered most of what i know in my videos so it would be redundant to type it all out. But basically if all those mag article intakes were cleaned-up the test results prob would of been tighter.
12-16-2020, 07:48 PM
