86WS6

iTrader: (1)

The car is a 1982 Trans AM with the 305 four barrel carb. This car is all original with 24K actual miles on the clock. The choke light on the dash stays on all of the time. The choke was staying on when the engine is hot. We replaced the choke thermostat and the choke works perfectly now. The choke light continues to stay on all of the time. I have a 195F thermostat and the engine operates at 200F all of the time. Thanks in advance. Charles

nhgator

Odd as it may seem,the choke light staying on is a sign of a charging issue,usually the alternator going away.

86WS6

iTrader: (1)

I would think the same thing, except that the alternator is capable of maintaining 13.5 volts at idle with the A/C on high and all of the lights on. We load tested the alternator and it is producing almost 100 amps.

rusty vango

that may be true ,but the choke light works thru the alt. wiring.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The "Choke" light IS ACTUALLY the "Alternator" light.

Your alternator is bad. Doesn't matter that it appears to be working, or not; it's bad.

Most likely, it's ACTUALLY only working 2/3 of the time, and lighting the light the other 1/3 of the time. The alt is a 3-phase AC generator, which is then rectified to produce DC; there are 3 diodes (not the main power rectifiers) involved with regulation and the light; one of those diodes is bad. The name of the part in question is "diode trio". It's internal to the alt. You can either change that piece, or change the whole alt; your call.

Don't worry about the "choke". The problem is the alt.

86WS6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I looked at the wiring diagram, and see what you mean. That is a strange way to wire up a car? Light says choke, but means charging circuit. WTF! Why does a car that has a volt meter also have an alternator light? Next step will be to remove the alternator and check the diodes. Probably find one of them cracked.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I think you can blame emissions hysteria for that:

The circuit is wired such that unless the alt is working, which in a properly working car would mean unless the engine is running, the choke does not get fed 12V to start its pull-off timeout. The problem of course being, that if the alt fails, the choke never pulls off, which would cause it to run grossly rich. So apparently, indicating this incidental emissions violation was promoted to greater importance than telling the owner what's wrong with the car. Logical I suppose, in a twisted sot of way, if the premises of your logic are warped enough.

86WS6

iTrader: (1)

https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...72615510_n.jpg

Thanks SofaKingdom, Above is a picture of that quirky little beast.

I ordered a new 140 amp alternator from Summit Racing last night.

Charles

HighPressure

Was it realy your altenator ? does it work proper now?

I have the same problem like you have / had.
After a lot of troubleshooting mine with bad mileage and trouble code "running rich" I recognized that my plug on the electric choke is bad / broken.
I plugged it in and the mentioned "choke / alt light" which now turns on and stays on like yours all time.
When I disconnect the choke, its off. Does the light stay on or does it go out?

As you spoke about the altenator I checked mine with its wiring.
I noticed 3 wires at my altenator.
1 Brown - connected, 1 Brown - hanging loose around, 1 red/blue
there is no third plug on the alt. Could this be the Problem?
My car was a LG4 and is now a L69, maybe thats the reason for the wiring.

86WS6

iTrader: (1)

The Summit alternator was a number 10 style case. My car takes a 15, except that the book did not say one way or the other. I had to start cancer treatment, so I took the car to a local shop.

Four alternators later we still did not have the correct one since the books don't list them by case type. The local shop sent the original alternator to a repair shop and had it rebuilt. The light remained on.

We finally got the correct alternator from NAPA on the 5th attempt. The light remains on.

The choke works. Car runs perfectly.

There are no codes set in the computer.

The new alternator works great. The car maintains 15 volts at idle with everything turned on. It is a 105 amp model.

The next step will be to remove the light bulb. I have spent about $800.00 trying to make this stupid light go off. Enough is enough.

I have no idea what to do to actually fix the real problem.

Charles

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Charles, I had a new 85 WS6 in that color. Beautiful Car!

1982Z28Modified

Sounds like your alternator was good from the start. The only other thing in the circuit that can cause this is the choke heater relay. I am not saying replace it, but there is a funky path for current to flow and what looks like a resistor on the schematic. I'll have to check my service manual to be sure.

1982Z28Modified

After looking at the schematic some more, if the relay is working properly, you could have a slight ground in the choke heater itself. Just enough to turn on the light but not enough to kill the choke. Or a grounded wire in the circuit

mlbinseattle

Check your C/H fuse. I know if the C/H fuse blows (or you pull it), it will cause approx 7 VDC at the choke heater relay and the Choke Warning light will illuminate.

devestator_x

iTrader: (1)

I had this same issue on my '83 Z28, wish I saw this thread earlier. There is a choke relay under the dash as well. If it's bad, the light stays on. I replaced mine after tons of head scratching and presto, no more light. I also had a bunch of people here telling me to replace the alternator. Sorry I couldnt have saved you a bunch of money and time beforehand.