car almost stalls on turns or quick stops
#1
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Car: 86' Trans-Am (wrecked)
Engine: none currently
Transmission: Borg-Warner T-5
Axle/Gears: 2.86:1 w/ one broken axle
car almost stalls on turns or quick stops
I have a 350 with an edelbrock 600CFM carb and electric choke. I am running points-style ignition with vacuum advance and an initial advance of 8*. If I make quick, complete stop the car will drop to 100-200 rpm and sometimes shut off. If I make a turn without my foot on the gas (coasting on a turn) it will do the same, and also if I do a U-turn and then try to accelerate fairly heavily (not wot) it runs really rough, almost as if I had a couple fouled plugs. I can accelerate heavily from a stop and 7/10 times it will run fine, but every couple times it will act as if it were skipping. I thought it might be my fuel pump (which I had determined was not pumping correctly), so I changed it and it helped a little but did not solve it by any means. Any ideas what this could be? it is driving me crazy.
thanks in advance.
thanks in advance.
#2
hey man did u put a fuel pressure regulator on that thing i switched mine out and the stock fuel pump puts out like 28lbs of pressure and my holly was supposed to work off 7 lbs i dont know if your running out of gas or getting too much, but why do u have your initial advance set at 8?
#3
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With the edelbrock carbs, sometimes the engine will stall if the floats are not set properly. Another thing to try would be installing the spring loaded needles and seats- they are supposidly for off-road applications, but if you want to do doughnuts, carbs flood way too easily without these. Another question: have you tuned the carb properly? Does it hesitate when you are in neutral and you floor it quickly? You might have to adjust your power valve down a bit, or change out the rod springs.
On the fuel pump- unless the pump is a high pressure or electric pump, you should not need a regulator. The stock mechanical pump only puts out a max of 12 PSI under optimal conditions, if that. It has plenty of flow for a 1406, the only reason I could see switching to an aftermarket pump is reliability in your case. The fuel pressure is not likely the cause, but if it was, the needle trick will still help. Hope this helps,
On the fuel pump- unless the pump is a high pressure or electric pump, you should not need a regulator. The stock mechanical pump only puts out a max of 12 PSI under optimal conditions, if that. It has plenty of flow for a 1406, the only reason I could see switching to an aftermarket pump is reliability in your case. The fuel pressure is not likely the cause, but if it was, the needle trick will still help. Hope this helps,
#4
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Car: 86' Trans-Am (wrecked)
Engine: none currently
Transmission: Borg-Warner T-5
Axle/Gears: 2.86:1 w/ one broken axle
It is a mechanical pump from napa, so I am sure that it isn't putting more than about 5 or 6. By the way, my carb is a 1405. I haven't had the money to buy a 1405 tuning kit yet, but I do plan to within the next week or so. As for the floats, that was exactly what my dad said it probably was so I plan to check those tomorrow. Thanks for the quick replies.
#5
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1405 is the same as the 1406, just without an electric choke and .001 larger jets. Like I said, get the spring loaded needle and seat set, PN EDL-1465. This will prevent the bowls from flooding during a hard stop or sharp turns. The floats should be adjusted to 15/16" at full drop (when the housing is right side up) and 7/16" topped out (with the housing upside down).
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Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
i used to run a 1405, and i'd set the floats to the above mentioned specs. had the same stalling problem too; cleared right up after the float adjustments berlinetta describes.
the fancy N/S won't hurt either, but set your floats first!
the fancy N/S won't hurt either, but set your floats first!
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