formulafastfoot

ok so i i understand alot about swaping from tpi to carb but theres a few things im not sure about

the torque lock up switch ( what wire am i supposed to be wiring up to and do i give it a 12v or dose it already have it or waht ?

the oil pressure sending switch ( how do you keep this intact so when i remove everything i know what wire not to cut and how to keep it connected

since im going from tpi to carb do i get an elecrtic carb or a manual ?

alternator how do i wire this up so the gauge inside the car works ...
how do i wire it up at all .... like to the starter and then to the hot on the battery >

what wure do i run the ignition to on the dizzy and what wire am i running from the igntion ?

i think thats about it ..

i cant find real answers to thease questions is there like a book on carb wireing and such ? pleasehelp

gapimpin

just slice and dice your old harness although i would recomend keeping most of it minus your injection harness. if you plug all your sensors back in you can keep your computer and data log your new engine. the wires for the tach are connected to your coil just reuse the wires one will be a fat red wire thats your +12v for your new hei dizzy and the black wire is for your tach.

the torque converter lock you will need to buy a kit for they have 2types the most common and less expesive is one that you wire to the connector on your tranny and hook up a vacuum sensor and a 12v source or you can get an internal kit that goes into your valve body its about $120 with no wires needed.

the alternator i just used my original wireing and its working fine i have heard that some ppl have problems with that but on my 91 bird it was not a problem something about a brown wire??

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The easiest route to go with the choke is electric. You need to supply 12 volt switched power to it, that's not that hard to find under the hood. Certainly easier than routing a choke cable into the passenger compartment, .

(I thought you told me you were going with the TPI.)

formulafastfoot

na i was going to go tbi but i would up getting a 1986 camaro with no motor so now im going to go carb and put my tranny and engine inthe camaro and ditch my 1989 firebird body ...

one other thing ... is a 600 cfm holly a XR276HR-12 extreme cam and a air gap intake be good for 300 horses ?

and also i was told that the XR276HR-12 extreme cam dosent have a step nose .. what dose taht mean and do i need it and i do then how do i get one for my cam ... the guy says its a retrofit hydrolic cam ... so any more help please ?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

"Retrofit roller" is made for an '86-earlier style block. It doesn't have provision for the retainer plate as used on '87-later factory roller lifter cams. The factory retainer plate requires a "step" on the "nose" of the cam, and retrofit roller cams don't need that step.

Just go with a cam made for '87-later factory roller lifters.

formulafastfoot

cant i just put a cam button in there or a thrust button with my problems ... thanks

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You could, but why are you set on a cam that isn't exactly made for your block, when you could get one that is?

formulafastfoot

because i can get a deal on it .. . i guess ill look around more ...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The best "deal" is to get what works right the first time.

formulafastfoot

well i think im going to just buy the cam out right .. are they all taht way ? or do they sell taht cam as a full roller witha step nose ?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If the application note says '87-'92, it's a Gen I factory roller. If it says '87-'98, or something like that, it's a Gen II (LT1) factory roller type, and can be installed in Gen I factory roller blocks. All have the step on the nose.

If it say '55-'86, it's a retrofit roller. No step on the nose.