JFROG

when i start my car the idle is rough and engine will die if i put it in gear. after about 30 sec of driving it will be ok. choke seems to be ok, fuel filter changed. tuneup done, but now i noticed that (when started) the idle smooths and no problems when the mixture solenoid is disconnected. (not the tps) the m/c does click for about 30 sec when i turm the ignition on. what should i look for to fix. am i getting a bad signal from the computer?

bluroc

Have you tried unplugging the tps while the car is idling? If the mixture selonoid is ticking with the ignition on but not running, then it should be ok. My tps took a crap and it runs terrible when cold and not so good when warm. I keep the tps unplugged now and until I rebuild the carb along with a new tps.

JFROG

no change when unplugging the tps only the m/c, thats whats throwing me off?????

JFROG

would it hurt to run with the m/c solenoid unplugged? can't wait till i can go to non-cc carb. got to find another distributor.

bluroc

It shouldn't hurt anything but your gas mileage and some driveability as it will run full rich all the time with the mixture selonoid unhooked. I've been driving mine with the tps unhooked for several weeks now and it runs fine. I haven't unhooked my m/s though.

JFROG

runs ok with the m/c disconected, turned my air cleaner lid upside down and the engine bogged. flipped it back and ran good. should i check av tension?

bluroc

It does sound like your a/v tension is too loose. Try going to www.montecarloss.com and checking out their tech section on air fuel delivery (or something like that). They have the best explinations and such on ccc quadrajets that I've seen in a while. The links should take you to everything you need to know about quadrajets. By the way, I would only increase the tension about 1/2 a turn at a time. Also, how dirty is your carb? I've seen some that greatly benefitted from having carb cleaner sprayed down towards the ends of the secondary metering rods. If you have any varnish build up in this area, it will restrict fuel flow on the secondary side of the carb.

JFROG

continues to do the same thing. i checked the timing and for vacuum leaks. no codes read from ecm, when i get the money i will just rebuild the carb and replace the tps and m/c solenoid. i will do it my self, any tips since this will be my first cc carb to rebuild?

NoTransistors

The carb comes off very easily.
Remove it, and saturate the thing in a good carb spray. Get every orifice. Do both top and bottom. Try to avoid the tps, mcs, and choke coil. There will be plenty of dirt/varnish.
Install with a new gasket. Have you seen the gasket? It is a 1/4" thick piece of fiberboard, and may be dried out and leaking.
Also find a Torx bit, and snug down the air horn to the throttle body.

cusz28

Not to throw a wrench in your plans, but try this insanly stupid sounding idea if nothing else works. Open up the under-dash cover on the passenger side and disconnect you computer. Then, start your car. I'm not joking. If your car is cold after a night's sit, pump the gas once (all the way down, then back up), then start it. it should kick into high idle. If you give it a stabb of wot, it will kick back down to normal idle. This is the way you can tell if you really have a bad m/s. Your car will run a little rich, but you can drive the car to your hearts content. Oh, and one other thing (two actually), you can custom tune the carb all you want. I should know, my car's computer was dead when I bought my car, and I've been driving it for almost a year. lol.

NoTransistors

You do know that your timing is fixed, and the mixture is rich enough to kill an elephant, or at least choke/clog your cat.

JFROG

well i rebuilt the carb and now it idles at 1500 - 2300 rpm. so i got a used carb from the junk yard (big mistake) it was full of crud and rust but the choke was good so i switched the choke over. i got it to idle down to 700rpm but when i drive it stalls at stops. (same as before) other than that when i drive or nail it it hauls a$$. I didn't think a 200,000mile 305 could burn rubber so much. well any way i am debating on forking out $270 for a new/rebuilt carb or go ahead and convert to non cc, thinking about a holley and upgrade intake to performer, and installing the tcc switch. either way i will still need to replace the valve seals.

JFROG

if i do fork out 270 for a carb will i need to make any adjustments or can i just hook it up and go? ( i know i will probably have to set idle)

cusz28

Well, NoTransistors, when I first bought my car, the computer was shot, the engine harness left much to be desired, and the exhaust system was cat-less. so, I guess it wasn't sooo bad afterall. as for the timing, it sucked, but 22 degress retard was o.k. untill I built the 350.

NoTransistors

Well, CUSZ28- For any engine to run right, the timing has to change with load and r.p.m.. This has always been part of the equation. I drove a 1909 Ford Model 'T' last week, and the timing has to be manually adjusted as you drive. Incredible car. Model 'T' or Camaro, the required technology is the same.

ljnowell

For a street car, or for an easily driven well mannered street car, you are correct. I have personally welded distributors for race cars, that started, and ran at full advance. No springs, no nothing.