theraymondguy

I’ve come to understand that (infinite) baffle boards were a legit “thing” for third gen f bodies. Literally a board of mdf or similar laid across the opening after the hump or in the trunk “well”.

pros:

Acoustically “flatter” curve than a full enclosure,
Lighter,
Much less expensive.

a few cons

Subsonics don’t play nice/potential woofer damage.
not every sub can be (or should be) in an infinite baffle.
More power required than with an enclosure.
fiber fill used to tuck in gaps.

For me even at low power output and a modest 10” sub this works well - I’ve already got notable tinnitus and I don’t need more, limiting the bass means limiting the front end as well and that’s only good news as I can’t stand music played into distortion.

My first effort, not the final. Mistakes were made. I could’ve been an 1/4” more front to back (the fibre fill will be required either way, just less). Yea the ground is lame, I know. I don’t want to order 25’ of new school copper clad aluminum ofc to use 4’. Holding out to find some old school stuff.

vf750rider

So your sub is pointing down into the well? Pushing the bass into the floor is what creates that "infinite baffle" concept?

I used a piece of MDF, made a shelf across the well about the height where your hinged cover rests on the rear interior plastic. But I cut a hole in it for my 10" sub on one side, which point upwards towards the glass, and I hung my amp on the under side, upside down, in the center out of sight. I left other side untouched for another sub, but I found that one 10" sub was plenty for me and my old school tunes, so I simply put another sub grill on other side so looks like 2 subs.

Tom 400 CFI

Yeah, that is a different take. I did a baffle board back in the day....about 28 years ago, now....and I thought it was pretty wicked. Everyone thinks that their upgraded stereo is awesome....kind of like everyone thinks that their kids or their dog is the best. But my "validation" is friends and acquaintances gave it unsolicited props, too. So, it was "good enough", I think.

Anyway, mine was pretty similar to @vf750ridera 1" board, covered with carpet matching the car's, with two 12" JL Audio infinite baffle subsfiring upward. I can't remember the model from back then....IB4? Maybe? Anyway, my baffle board, like other 3rd gen BB's I'd seen before, simply dropped into place and fit snuggly where the well-lid, used to reside. The board, became, the well-lid. I powered the subs with a 500w SoundStream Reference 500sx, which was a good brand/amp back in those days, and I mounted that, along w/a 4 channel Alpine...V12?...maybe? in the spare tire location.

It pounded good. It would hit through your torso, move your scalp, even feel like it was moving the car body. So? In a 3rd gen, I give the IB subs in a board with some decent power, a big
They work, and it's an easy install that doesn't consume space in a meaningful way.

I've tried the same strategy in other cars since, (A Dodge Stealth, and my C4) and had pretty crappy results. Not sure why or what the "magic" is in the F-body arrangement, but I haven't gotten it to work in a way that I would recommend, in other cars.

theraymondguy

I’ve recently added two Alpine SWS 10” woofers in isobaric clamshell configuration vs. the single MB Quart. It is just rediculous, hits so hard and the bass is unbelievably accurate.

Horn effect from the “trunk”!into the hatchback / passenger compartment is what makes this work so well in our f bodies.

theraymondguy

Time to build the box that will replace the baffle board.

Built to fit into the well, 1/2” birch with 3/4” top panel (provides the required air space between the woofers). 0.85 cu ft.

Tom 400 CFI

Will you be able to open the BB lid and use the space?
With the Baffle board, I like that I could use the space under it for stuff/luggage/rd trips, etc. And I did use that space. If you and your car are "past that" then you don't need that utility and a box will likely kick out better sound.

Box looks nice!

theraymondguy

Thanks,

This box is enclosed. One woofer will be trapped beneath the top plate permanently and the other will mount on top. One woofer will be fired out of phase with the other, the air trapped between them will be a coupler. This adds no additional dB, but mores for incredibly accurate bass and reduces the box size by 50%.

The lid over the trunk well will close. I’m a little bit undecided as to what I’ll do for an amp rack (mounting vintage amps to the sub box is not a great choice).

Tom 400 CFI

Right on. I mounted my amps (and they were, by today's standards....VINTAGE , in the spare tire area. Seemed to work fine.

theraymondguy

That’s a great spot for a stealth build. Good air movement supplied by the pocket inside the door.

I just like being able to see them.

91formula_WS6_5

Any updates on this? How does the finished product look?

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Since your woofers will be facing opposite directions, are you changing the phase of the wiring to one of them so that both are throwing the air in the same direction, or do you want them opposing? I would think that opposing would cancel the other.

theraymondguy

Installed, tuning in the works.

The floor of the trunk well isn’t parallel to the rails on both sides. A simple shim will resolve that.

There’s a bump @30-55Hz that any SPL system would be proud of. The same bump means I don’t get a lot of subsonic, which will help with longevity. The roll off after is absolutely flat.

It is Legit the most musically accurate box I’ve ever had. I’ve not tried any “Mega bass” tracks - not my deal.

I don’t have the box carpeted as yet, hoping to find a colour match for Dove Gray, I need to do my trunk cover too.

theraymondguy

Exactly. The exposed woofer is wired in reverse to prevent the two woofers from competing against each other.