mikey8494

ok so i got my new pyle red label subs in and ive wired everything in with a brand new wireing kit everything is wired up properly but wheni turn the car on the amp comes on till the head unit starts up which takes a few seconds. and every time the head unit kicks in the fuse in the amp blows someone help me please?

Sinfulrelations

Is it a new amp? Sounds like the amp has a short.

Barlow8869

iTrader: (1)

try to turn on the amp without the head unit ... as in run a jumper from the main power to the switched power ... to rule out the headunit as the trouble ... and post a pic of the wiring on the amp, if you can

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you have a weak ground on the amp. Make sure your ground is at least one gauge larger than your power. Also, make sure you don't have even a single strand of your remote turn on feed touching the amp body or any other wires at the amp.

mikey8494

its a realy old amp that sat in the carand the po treated it like **** im gona get a new one its an old school amp anyway

Lakerman62

iTrader: (3)

I had a similar problem once in my 84 & turned out the cig lighter was pushed all the way in. Once i pulled the cig lighter out a bit so it wasn't constantly "running" no problems. I think the fuse that kept blowing was #20....good luck

mikey8494

laker the fuse that was blowing was the fuse built into my amplifier to my subs i got a new 650 watt max 4 channel amp today gona have it installed and hooked up to my 2 10 inch 600 watt max single voice coil pyle red lable subs

cdoyle

I would try unhooking the subs, does the amp still turn off?
If not, then verify how the subs are wired.

If it does still blow the fuse with the subs disconnected, sounds like the amp is shot.

mikey8494

when it blew the subs wernt even in the box yet

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

What?

I don't know how you get a "weak ground" but a poor ground, would not allow a lot of current to flow, and not likely enough to blow a fuse, unless it was like a .5A fuse, or so, at which point just the amp turning on, even with a solid ground would blow the fuse. There's no need to mix power and ground cable sizes, there is equal current flowing on both the positive and ground wires in a circuit.

It sounds to me, like the amp itself is the problem, especially in a later post where you mentioned that the speakers were not even connected to it. The only other possibility I could see where the amp itself would not be the issue, is if the amp was connected backwards, as in positive wire to the ground input and the ground wire to the positive, but that would likely blow the fuse as soon as you connected it, not after the headunit turned on, due to the reverse polarity protection diodes built into most automotive amplifiers.

Lakerman62

iTrader: (3)

Sorry MisRead It, Good luck

mikey8494

yea six the amp is fried i got a new amp so im gona have it hooked up soon and ill be thumping in no time

irocwagon

What kind of amp is it?

mikey8494

i think its an audio teck 350 watt max 4 channel amp

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (2)

I used to run a very prosperous car audio shop up here in Buffalo. I now wire limos, hot rods, drag cars and emergency vehicles. I have been to Audio Control's, MTX's and Rockford Fosgate's wiring schools. Grounds are everything in a 12 volt system.

Here's something to try. Disconnect just your ground wire, then put your DVM inline to compete the circuit. Read your meter and let me know what it says.

mikey8494

dontworry i got a new amp the old amp was fried now the new amp wants to stay on when the car is off which is weird its draining the battery

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (2)

What wire are you using to turn the amp on at the radio?

You should be using the blue wire from the radio. It's usually labeled remote turn on or amp turn on.

mikey8494

yep thats what im using i wired a brand new remote wire to the radio remote