BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

I cant decide what I want to do and I really dont want to make the wrong decision. I cant decide if I should go with a Kicker 10" or 12" solobaric sub. I am running a kicker KX600.1 so, I can either get a 12" L5 or 10"L7 for the wattage to match the amp. If I get the 10", then I can hide it in the spare tire well. If I get the 12" it wont fit and I will be forced to make a box for it and put it down low in the hatch area.the 12 may sound better though Whats the pros and cons between these two subs? Is there a lot of sound difference in them? Im not looking to build a system that will **** the neighbors off. I just want a somewhat hard hitting good sounding system for ME to enjoy. Not the guy 3 blocks away. I listen to mostly rock and some rap. My amp is rated at 600W RMS at 2ohms.

Gummie

Honestly, I would stay away from both subs. The L7 will play lower than the L7 despite being smaller. Neither is going to sound very musical, both have pretty peaky output from what people have said, and I've read all kinds of things about picky break in, fried coils, etc.



Neither one really plays that low. IMO Kicker designed these subs to get loud and that's about it.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

hmmm, Ill have to take that into consideration now. You have any reccomendations on a good 10 or 12" sub for my Kicker KX600.1 amp. The amp runs stabe in 2 ohms. I am NOT running any other subs or 6x9's My onlyother speakers are a pair of Polk comonents in the kick panels.

Gummie

You're going to want a pretty musical sub that can play well up to around 80 Hz, something that does well in a samll enclosure, and something that's not that power hungry. Elemental Design's ov.2 sounds up to the job as does Diamond's D6. You could also look into Digital Design’s offerings if you wanted to.

If you want to stick with locally available stuff you could always try a comp/comp vr.

Buy a 4 ohm DVC sub. You will be able to wire it to 2 ohms.

vipershark11

iTrader: (6)

if all you are looking for is some good bass that can get loud when needed id say go with the 12" L5. i got one with a custom box in my hatch. sounds kick *** i love it satisfies all my bass needs and its powered by an audiobahn A8000T which is 800 watts rms x 1 channel. i love it and wouldnt change it. plus its a change from all those round subs i think my sub hits pretty damn low cause it moves and i cant even hear any noise sometimes!!!

Gummie

I never said it wouldn't get loud, just that it wouldn't be very accurate. Is your box ported? If so, the reason why you're getting massive motion and not hearing anything is because your sub is unloading. If you're sealed then you should be able to hear/feel something if you're having a lot of excursion.



This is a graph to compare two woofer's F3, or the frequency at which output is down 3 dB. The L7's F3 is around 50 Hz and the Reference’s F3 is around 37 Hz. Sure, the L7 can play down to some low number but another woofer will be able to do so with a lot more output.

As for accuracy, well read woofer reviews by magazines, etc.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

will not running any 6x9's make choosing a sub a little harder to me? My only other speakers are some Polk components in the kicks. Should I be looking for a sub with good SQ since there is no rear speakers? I dont care about the guy down the road hearing me bumping my stuff as I drive down the road. I just want a good hitting sub at mid level listen volumes. I dont crank my stuff up all the time. I have been looking at the Alpine line of subs since I hear they offer great SQ. I am really realy really really trying to put this single sub into the spare tire well. I mounted my amps in the rear seats so I dont want to just plop a sub in a huge box in the well area out in the open. that will defeat the purpose of me mounting my amps in the seats, out of sight.
Now we all know that the spare tire well isnt the biggest space in the car for a sub but there has to be a good 10 or even a 12" sub that will work in that space inside of an odd shaped box with UNDER 1 cubic foot of air space. My amp is the Kicker KX600.1 which should put out 600 watts at 2 ohms. So Im gonna need a speaker that matches that.

Gummie

Avoid the back seat box. It will give you cancellation issues, etc. If your goal really is SQ then hide the box in the back or build a stealth box.

You're going to have one big problem with no 6x9s. It's not because you're not running rear fill, it's because 4x6s can't play very low at all. You can compensate by crossing over your subs higher, which will give the effect of rear fill if that’s what you’re going for.

Check out this thread for some good alternatives to Alpine: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...on-my-amp.html All those subs should work fine in a small box. Box shape doesn't matter as long as you have the volume.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

I never said anything about putting a sub in a back seat box and I didnt say I was keeping my 4x6s. I am running a pair of Polk componets hooked up to a Kicker KX250.2 amp. The reason for not running any rear speakers is because I heard that back speakers ruin the soundstage effect of the music.

*F-BodyFanatic*

iTrader: (2)

I know I'm kinda hoping on this train a little late - but there are MUCH better subs you can get out there than the L-series kickers, unless all you want is some boomy, loud bass, then go for it.

I'm running 1 10" in my car, and it's way more than I need. I have a Rockford T1 running off a Memphis 16-MC1000D. Also, I don't know where you were planning on getting your Kicker subs at, but have you considered getting a lightly-used one? SoundDomain forums and CarAudio.com forums have a lot of smoking deals (just wanna check for some sort of feedback prior to buying).

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

I want a nice hard, tight hitting bass from my system. Something that you can feel but nothing overkill. I listen to a wide variety of music also. mostly rock though. it hard to listen to subs in the stores because they will never sound the same in the car. Plus, who knows what amp(s) are REALLY hooked up to some of these things. I dont trust many audio shops mainly because of selling gimics and stuff like that. You guys here will speak the truth cuz you got nothing to loose by BSing me or anyone else on products.

And as far as where I will buy my sub I choose, it will have to be the cheapest place I can find it. I look on ebay a lot but its just for info and specs and stuff like that. I would rather have a awsome 10" sub since it will fit for sure in the spare tire well.

*F-BodyFanatic*

iTrader: (2)

what rms does your amp run at, at 4 and 2 ohms? Maybe I can throw a few suggestions your way.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

the amp I am running is the Kicker KX600.1. I am almost positive that it runs at 300W RMS at 4 ohms or 600 at 2 ohms.

lowgas&rubber

well i have infinitys 2 12" reference series with a boss 400W RMS. It is more than I need it is tight bass and when you crank it up alot it is loud. I listen to rock once in a while and it still sounds pretty good. Not the best but good. I havent had any problem with mine they sound great and they hit lows good.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

how much of a difference would it make if a certain sub went from a sealed box with .5 cubic feet of space to say 1 cubic foot? I ask because 1 cubic foot is about the max I can go with the box I am making that will fit in the spare tire well. It looks like I will have a range of .5 to 1. With that, would it be more sensible to buy a 10" sub instead of a 12 which will require more space?

Belker

"how much of a difference would it make if a certain sub went from a sealed box with .5 cubic feet of space to say 1 cubic foot"

Every brand/model of speaker is going to have different recommended requirements for box volume. I assume you are not going to be comfortable designing a box on your own (using software modeling, ect.) so I'd build a box that meets the specifications recommended by the manufacturer. So .... look for a sub in which the manufacturer recommends a box volume of .5 - 1 cu.ft. (your estimate). (I still can't believe how many people throw a sub in any old box and call it a done deal).

I'm pretty sure there are many 10" subs and many 12" subs that will work well in a sealed 1 cu.ft. box so sub diameter may not be a factor in-and-of-itsself. Vented box designs are usually larger.

I'm running 2 10s in a large, ported fiberglass box getting 300w rms each. I have removed one on occasion for experimentation and found the SPL to still be enough for my tastes. "For my tastes" means I can adjust the volume of the sub to blend-in-with/compliment the sound from my 5.25" Boston Acoustics that are in my custom kickpanels getting 80w rms each. It's fun to crank up the subs and thow in some rap with serious bass, but .... after a while it just gets old and all I really want is a good sounding stereo so I can enjoy the music. So .... the point of all this .... I feel one decent sub (10 or 12) tucked away in the back will add alot to your system and will probably be enough.

I wonder why you (and many others) want to get rid of the spare tire to add a sub box. Why not build it in place of the "glove box"? I feel some level of comfort/security knowing I have a spare tire if I need it. If I ever build another fiberglass sub box for a thirdgen it's going to be a small custom one on that side of the trunk. It might require more creativity but could be done.

I wish I could recommend some nice subs but I haven't researched them at all in the last 5 years. Good luck on your project.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

the reason for putting the sub in the spare tire well is because there is more room on that side once the bracket is cut out of their. I cant use the spare tire anyway due to the size of the brakes I have.

89_fireform

<<<<<<<<<<< 15's!

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

umm,,,no. With the technology today in subs, there is no point in putting a 15" sub into a car to get bass.

89_fireform

15;s go lower than any other size matters

streetassasin

Please tell me where you could fit 15''s in the back of a third gen

89_fireform

i got 2 15;s in mine. 4800 watts..

DanTheMan18

I've got the 10" L5 truck box, and it fits down into the well with no problem. I've got a 300w Alpine mono powering it, which is relatively conservative, and it sounds really good. The only real differences that you'd see with a 12" is that it would hit deeper (lower notes), and be a touch louder (thanks to more surface area, when the sub moves, it's going to move more air because it IS larger than the 10").

Either way, with the 600.1, it'll be ridiculously loud. I'd go with the 10" inch and save yourself the work.

spartyon

fireturd350 has 2 18s in his hatch.

89_fireform

thats what im TALKIN ABOUT! 18S! WTF lol

89_fireform

WHAT YOU KNOW ABOUT THAT!!!!! (not finished)

1meanGTA

audiobahn? 4800 watts? whats the rms?

89_fireform

its 4800 bridged, but i got it set to 2400 with a 1200x2 watt rms, my subs can take a 1300 watt rms each, so im safe

rx7speed

I've seen some 10's go low enough to not make a difference. don't remember which set it was and I honestly think it was home audio though but the the 10 went down to something like 15-16hz with only around a 2db drop off.

drlivingston

For what it's worth, I saw a guy with a single 15" eclipse sub get beat by a guy running four 6.5" subs... lol Cone space is a factor but proper installation is the key to proper performance.

Rally Smith

iTrader: (3)

A single 12" sub that is sealed will give you some pretty good bump inside the car. Nothing earth shattering but sound pretty good. Check out the Alpine 12" on crutchfield.com (Alpine Type-E SWE-1242, 12" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer)
Check out the reviews on it. I plan on putting 2 of them in my 91 RS.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

i think im stuck with a 10" sub. The box I made to fit in the spare tire well will not accomodate a 12" sub. Hows the CVX's?

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

The CVX's aren't worth the money, they take more power to run and are less efficient than a Comp VR so if you're not competing I wouldn't bother with them, just go with the Comp VR and be conservative with your amp settings. That's considering you are wanting to stay with Kicker, otherwise I would consider a Diamond D6, JL W6, or even an Alpine Type X. These are the mainstream names that people tend to be partial to, if you're willing to go with a not so known brand then the Resonant Engineering, DD's, or Elemental Design subwoofers mentioned earlier would fill your niche perfectly and are of the utmost quality.

drlivingston

These are very well known brands of subs... The RE MT's and the DD9515's won more world championships last year than all other manufacturers put together. Just because they are expensive doesn't make them any less recognizable.

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

They're not necassarily more expensive and they're definetly less well known than brands that advertise in the mainstream. If you think I'm wrong about this just ask around and see if more people know Resonant Engineering, or Rockford Fosgate. Those who're serious into car audio know what they are, but the average joe doesn't. Until RE starts selling at Best Buy and through Crutchfield they're still going to be less well known than the highly advertised equipment. As for price, you can get lower model DD's and Resonant Engineerings that will compete with the higher model mainstream equipment. So to clear things up, less recognized meant your friends probably won't know what it is, not that it's less respected.

ScottieB

I just wanted you to know that we have 4x6's in the front, and 6x9's in the rear (by passenger sides) as stock.

LT1LE

DIAMOND D3 (BEST SUB'S FOR THE $$$) OR GET DIAMOND D9 TDX (BEST SUB'S PERIOD).

SIZE DOES'T MAETTER.... QUALITY DOES.... MY 12'S WILL OUT HIT MOST ANYTHING.

rx7speed

The power of a real subwoofer


Subwoofer Hairstyling


try das links