rubberized undercoating
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rubberized undercoating
Rubberized Undercoating
Any reviews for the product. Ive heard it can deaden some noise coming from rattling in sub systems, etc.
Nate
Any reviews for the product. Ive heard it can deaden some noise coming from rattling in sub systems, etc.
Nate
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Car: 92 caddy PIMP
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what about wheel wells and plastic interior. My plastics all over seem to rattle when I go over bumps.
Nate
Nate
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thats cool Ill prolly end up coating the inside of the well in the hatch, the 6x9 area, wheel wells, dash, etc. I really hope itll stop alot of the rattle. It gets aggrivatin...
Nate
Nate
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I like to use silicone caulk, the good stuff, dries clear, and it seals the box, and stops any vibrations, and is still flexible. I put it along all the edges of the box, after using wood glue where I screw the box together, and clamp it up really tight, it works really well, and the box is rock solid, One time one of the boxes I made with a 15, fell down about 4 ft, and landed on its corner protector, and the corner of the box was fine, it was nice, good ole' 1" thick oak plywood is good shiezin.
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Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
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Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
yeah that works too, I like dynamats stuff, it works really good.
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Originally posted by cronsformula350
yeah that works too, I like dynamats stuff, it works really good.
yeah that works too, I like dynamats stuff, it works really good.
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Car: 1989 trans am
Engine: 357sbc
Transmission: 700r4
Isn't MDF more effective than 1" thick oak? MDF helps to deaden the sounds too, oak would like project them because it is such a hard wood, wouldn't it?
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lol, sorry man, forgot to add that part in, When i had my Grand Am (best sound system i have ever heard in my life in that thing) I Dynamatted the entire trunk, and it did make a difference!! I swear to ***, to this day no car has ever matched the sound system i had installed on that GA, The difference is when i got the dynamat i worked @ best buy and got a HUGE discount on it, But I had to buy like two rolls! that would cost me a **** load without that discount@!! i never got around to spraying that rubber stuff inside my homemade AMAZING box or in my car newhere, but i hear it is good stuff, Although like he said above if your box is sealed already you dont really need it if your are using MDF, Good luck man
Chris
Chris
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Car: 92 caddy PIMP
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well theres really a main problem i want to try and get rid off....My fenders etc rattling. I want it to sound clean both inside and OUTSIDE of the car. If I walk outside of my car all I hear is my fender rattling under the bass. I very much dislike this. Thx for the responses.
nate
nate
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i dunno how to perfect the outside noise, even the GA rattled, something is ALWAYS going to rattle when u have that much BASS!!!!!!!
chris
chris
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Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
Yes mdf is better than oak, or plywood, but the bigger issue with mdf, is that it weighs alot more than plywood, even oak plywood, although oak plywood is really strong, but still lighter than mdf. Sometimes its just better to use plywood for a box rather than mdf, for the added weight savings.
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Car: 1989 trans am
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Agreed, thats why i went down to one 12, The type of wood the box is made of makes a huge difference. but if u like the way it sounds...
chris
chris
#18
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What's funny is that now that I'm getting into DIY home speakers, over and over and over all I see is 3/4" MDF boxes with 1.5" front baffles and extensive bracing inside the box, all for an enclosure using a single 6.5" driver. In the car world, we'll put 2,000 watts through a pair of 12" subs with a 6" excursion, yet a single 3/4" MDF box is perfectly acceptable. I think when I build the box for my brahma (if I ever actually get one), I'm going to make it look like a jungle gym inside, and I'm going to make another conventional box with my usual amount of bracing. I want to see if I can hear a difference.
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Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
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Back to the original topic, I have used the rubberized coating stuff and I didn't particularly care for it... seemed like it never really "dried". I'd rather buy some kind of Dynamat/RAAMmat/etc. product myself.
Quite honestly though, I've fixed a lot of rattle problems before with using products as simple as tissues. Internal rattles anyway. Plastic interior pieces can typically be quieted fairly easily if you can track it down if you just shove a few tissues or some similar object behind it and bolting the interior piece back down. Often saves weight over actual sound-deadening products too.
Quite honestly though, I've fixed a lot of rattle problems before with using products as simple as tissues. Internal rattles anyway. Plastic interior pieces can typically be quieted fairly easily if you can track it down if you just shove a few tissues or some similar object behind it and bolting the interior piece back down. Often saves weight over actual sound-deadening products too.
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Car: 1989 trans am
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Yea tracking it down is the hard part...
But about the bracing, what is that for?? I have never used bracing in a box b4??? Explain to me how it helps, im curious, thanks
Chris
But about the bracing, what is that for?? I have never used bracing in a box b4??? Explain to me how it helps, im curious, thanks
Chris
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Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
yeah, if you use good clamps, and screws at least an 1.5" long, and good plywood, at least 5 plys, it will sound good. One must remember, that the material doesn't always matter, all your striving for is a box that doesn't vibrate until a very low frequency. You don't want it to resonate, if possible, my 15" box, is mega strong. The other factor to think about for a bandpass box to sound good across a few hundred hz, it cannot be a square, squares aren't good for sound, because the air doesn't move as well, it just sits there. A rectangular box, is better or a box with no more than two sides of equal proportions.
With the level were at, we probably wouldn't notice a huge difference with mdf over good plywood. And usually one good internal + out to the sides takes care of strength issues or any resonance problems.
With the level were at, we probably wouldn't notice a huge difference with mdf over good plywood. And usually one good internal + out to the sides takes care of strength issues or any resonance problems.
Last edited by cronsformula350; 01-14-2004 at 09:58 PM.
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
One must remember, that the material doesn't always matter___ And when is it that material doesnt matter? 99% of the system is the install and 99% of the install is the material so when is it that the material doesnt matter? Ok lets go along with this "the material always doesnt matter" thought for a minute. Ok i have a whatever brand sub,amp,head unit,and components. Ok what the hell the subs only 400 wats and the amp puts out 200 so ill go down to the dollar store and buy some cheap *** 18 ga speaker wire. And since the subs only 400 w i dont need mdf ill get some cheap *** ply wood. And what the hell ill just throw the components in the doors, no baffels or anything! And while were at it we dont need no stinking rca cables we'll run the speaker lines off the head unit to the amp! woohoo saved a ton of money!
NOW listen to that *** of a system, it'll sound like crap compaired to a system properly put together with the proper cables,MDF,Kick panels etc. The Material is ALWAYS IMPORTANT!
NOW listen to that *** of a system, it'll sound like crap compaired to a system properly put together with the proper cables,MDF,Kick panels etc. The Material is ALWAYS IMPORTANT!
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MDF is usually used. That has to say something...But lets try to stay on topic...As for comment about R undercoating never drying. Theres 2 kinds. One that dries and one that doesnt. You might have gotten the wrong one.
nate
nate
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Welllll, i agree that material does matter, but not is such a manner as he, calm down over there, brobert, you dont need to scold this guy, lol, MDF is better than plywood because it helps to absorb and dampen sound, OAK will not dampen ****! Mayb yours sounds good, but im sure you haven't heard it in a MDF box have u? There is a reason people don't use plywood, and that is because it is a waste of time and money to make a plywood box, spend the extra few bucks and get MDF, rubberized coating is no longer the subject , lol...
Chris
Chris
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Car: 89 Formula L98 power
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Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
I didn't mean that the material doesn't matter. A good high grade, quality plywood, will work great, the oak I used was from the early 80's, and is alot better than alot of the stuff you can find nowadays. Of course mdf is almost always better. But if you design a box to take advantage of the material strength, you will hardly lose any sound quality throughout the box. MDF is thicker than plywood, but not stronger in comparison, if it was, they'd build roofs and walls with mdf. The thicker density of the wood is what helps kill any possible resonance. I will say that in a comparison of a box of my size, and my wood, compared to mdf, the mdf box would way maybe 5-6 lbs more, but the increase in sound quality would probably be 1db or less. More db is lost through the interior of the car, and the only way one would be able to tell is to use a spl meter. OF course mdf is better, its just not an option for everyone. MDF is usually three to four times the price of good plywood, and mdf will crack or break, if you don't pilot drill your holes, and use high quality c-clamps, and glue during construction.
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meh im sick of proving you wrong, so i will just say it, your wrong... yea i kno u say mdf is better but u say that oak helps to deaden sound, boo-urns to that your wrong... im done with this
Chris
Chris
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Car: 85 firebird
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Im sorry, put me on probation whatever, but this guy is the most informed person i have seen come on this site. Read some of his other posts! From the all mighty leagacy amps, to feel your amp power wire if it doesnt get hot your ok, to how to wire a dvc sub. The guys got radio shack eq's in his car and hes trying to give people on here a lesson in car audio I mean its differnt for attacking someone because of there opinion but this guy is giving out totally wrong information! and about the rubber undercoating, i've used it as Jim stated before, on the insides of sub boxes just as a sealer.
Last edited by br()bert; 01-15-2004 at 05:02 PM.
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IMO all you need is the box not to resonate at all....if you can do this using heavily braced cardboard then that would work just as well as anything.
the way i understood it, mdf is used most often because of its price, strength, and ease to work with...but any other fairly strong type of wood would work just aswell i would think. Its not totally the strength of the wood that stops the box from resonating its the bracing inside the helps a lot.
im no carpenter so im not sure weather 12 ply plywood is stronger than mdf or whatever so i cant comment on the othe types of wood...i build my first box ever out of plywood and i didnt like it too much, the ends frayed when i cut it...i much prefer mdf but ive not yet used oak or anything else
i would like to do an experiment with plexi though
the way i understood it, mdf is used most often because of its price, strength, and ease to work with...but any other fairly strong type of wood would work just aswell i would think. Its not totally the strength of the wood that stops the box from resonating its the bracing inside the helps a lot.
im no carpenter so im not sure weather 12 ply plywood is stronger than mdf or whatever so i cant comment on the othe types of wood...i build my first box ever out of plywood and i didnt like it too much, the ends frayed when i cut it...i much prefer mdf but ive not yet used oak or anything else
i would like to do an experiment with plexi though
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