pat12spe

You guys have to try this if you are thinking about getting an amp and a couple subs for the trunk. I have a 91 firebird and came up with this idea to have the subs fire down instead of back up at the hatch. It seriously reduces your rattle if you have any loose parts or anything like that. In fact the only thing that rattles when I turn this system up way too loud is actually my muffler, hehe. I'm getting some double sided tape and another clamp to lock it into place. Here's what I got: 2 - 10 in 125 watt JL audio subs enclosed in a custom box I put together that was fiberglassed on the interior and carpet is pretty damn tight around the outside. The amp is a 250 watt JL Audio sub amplifier on top of a smaller custom box that covers up the wires pulled through the carpet so it looks real neat. The sound is incredible and definitely worth looking into. Let me know what you think. Thanks!

pat12spe

Here's pic #2

pat12spe

Here's #3....oh btw I pulled up my T-top cover so you could see it more clearly.

pat12spe

and #4

pat12spe

Sorry the pics are so big....I didn't realize they'd come out that huge. Thanks for takin the time to let me know whatcha think.

si_camaro

Does the amp not overheat under there? There doesn't seem to be a vent for it or anything, and I just wondered how it coped in there, because I'm thinking of doing that myself.

pat12spe

The amp doesn't heat up that much surprisingly. It's not pushing too much power. 250 Watts to two 125 Watt speakers so it's operating at normal capacity. And if it does overheat, just take it back under warranty, hehe. But I've had it for well over a month and I've checked it out a few times. It's warm but doesn't get hot.

White Ninja

I wanna know more about it, mouting depth capabilities, how many cubes. would you be willing to give a sketch of it from all sides and/or even dimensions? i'm interest in seeing how it comes out!

- Andy

pat12spe

Yeah, I'll make all the sketches tomorrow when there's light out. What exactly do you want? The dimensions of the box and amp and everything? I can make some of how big it is, angles, how much room I have and everything like that if you'd like? Lemme know.

onebadwagon

i wouldnt personally do that on anything more than what you have.


you start putting low impedance loads on an amp, and youre going to want some air moving across it.


adam

FyreLance

How That doesn't really make sense to me. Please explain!

pat12spe

Well, most of the rattle either comes from the hatch, license plate, etc. By not having the bass bounce off of the glass, there's less upward force against it. I'm not saying that it won't rattle if it's loose (mine doesn't at all cause it's a nice seal), but you would have less rattle with the setup this way.

FyreLance

But the bass will still bounce off the glass.

pat12spe

Ouch, I didn't put this post up to to torn a new one, just an idea for others who might be interested in a new idea. There's still bass bouncing off the glass but it's not as forceful as if it would be shooting straight up at it, so therefore it wouldn't rattle as much. I have some friends who have the setup where it bouces off the glass and they say that mine sounds better.....less rattle and more punch. And one of my friends also is changing his setup to mine, so it can't be too bad right? It's just an idea....hence the title. Plus I think it looks better to have it without any subs showing in the trunk. They'll last longer because you won't have things placed on them if you're putting stuff in the trunk and aren't easily seen if someone is passing by and looking for an easy steal. Just my two cents.

Snow90Camaro

looks pretty sweet but i'm just wondering how it would work if i had a 2000 watt system fireing down into such a small space

White Ninja

that's what i like about it, you can't see the subs. I would like mechanical-type drawing of it if you could, that would be great. like a side view with measurements, a top view and bottom if they're different. Thanks!

- Andy

pat12spe

Just got done with the mechanical drawing. Sorry that I don't have my CAD software at home otherwise it would be in better shape. The angle on there is 50 degrees give or take a few degrees. Lemme know if this helps or if you need more. Thanks.

White Ninja

that's awesome, thanks dude!

- Andy

DISTURBthePEACE

Hey, thats kinda like mine, except I didnt downfire, I kinda rear fired. My sub faces the rear of the car, not the glass. I think it sounds better than having it face up towards the glass...it gives the bass an extra surface to bounce off of. I might end up facing towards the glass though, if I get the box I want. Its a box for 3 12's, custom fiberglass...I'll put in 3 type-r's off of the 1200.1 But thats at least a summer away...so here's a pic of what I have now...sorry I got off topic. Anywayz...as with yours, I can lay stuff back there w/o having to worry about harming the subs, and the amp has plenty of air to cool off with (the amp is now a planet audio 200x2, but as soon as my JBL 1200.1 comes in, I'll switch) I think I am getting it carpeted monday or tuesday (not for sure though).

pat12spe

Hey, just to let you know. If and when you decide to do this kind of setup, make sure you crimp the wires on very very tight to the + and - inputs on the box, otherwise the extreme base will knock them loose. This happened to me yesterday and it took me forever to figure out what had happened. I fiddled around with the amp some more and turned up the bass some. Now my car is pounding!! It's bumping so loud that it knocked my rearview mirror loose. Anyone know how to tighten those up on the swivel joints? Every 20 minutes or so I find myself readjusting the rearview mirror. Maybe I should turn it down some, but it sounds sooooo good right now. Any thoughts?

Huckster's '84 TA

There should be a little allen wrench head screw that tightens the mirror.

I bet it would be possible to run a few ports with fans into the bottom area to cool the amp and release some of the pressure from the bass if anyone would be worried about the amp heating up.

chevkid

I think it's a great idea. I might just have to copy your idea. hope ya don't mind. Exept I'll put my amp somewhere else, proby on to of the gas tank on a amp rack just to be safe from overheating.

pat12spe

Sure go right ahead. That's why I posted this, so everyone might wanna try something different. Also as a side note, the JL amps have a built in feature that shuts down the amp after it reaches a certain temperature so it doesn't harm the amp. I'm not sure if others have this but mine does. It hasn't shutdown yet and I've had it going on two months with my stereo system blasting! Also, with the JL amps its important that you wire a fuse in series with the amp from the battery. There's no fuse actually on this amp. Its easier to get to for mine because you just have to lift the hood and it's right there as apposed to pulling everything out. Thanks for helping me out with the rearview mirror piece also Huckster. It's nice and tight! Chev, if you do decide to do this, post some pictures and let us see your setup. Good luck!

CaysE

I don't mean to be flaming this at all, just bear with me here. Of course it's not gonna rattle as much because... there's less bass getting in the interior.

If you turned them facing upwards, and fixed your rattles, you'd have even MORE pounding excitement to jizz over.

I have to admit, though, I love the fact that you can't see the subs and amp at all. Nice job all in all!

pat12spe

FLAMER!!!!!

DISTURBthePEACE

I really hope your kidding.

pat12spe

It was a joke....didn't know people took things seriously all the time.

DISTURBthePEACE

I assumed it was, but there were no smilely telling me otherwise, like a wink, I tell you what, those smilies make all the difference between people taking what you say as a joke or seriously. I took it as a joke, but the next person might not have. Sorry man, its all good

CaysE

lol, come on i knew that was a joke the second i read it. (EFF YOU, HATER!)

formulajoe_2

With my old set-up (2 solo 12s and ZR600) i actually got 2 more Db with the subs firing down. Seemed like a lot more output to me with them facing down......night and day difference.

pat12spe

We actually checked this out at the TR2 meet today. We pulled it out and had them firing up into the car. The box can be put subs facing up or down because it's a uniform box. Everyone thought it sounded pretty good firing up. Then when we put it facing down, there was definitely a noticable difference....more pounding. Everyone agreed it was definitely a lot better sounding to have them face down. At least 10 people agreed with me. So, I guess it's official that it sounds better down.

Momar

Yeah, I am not sure if its right, but I think I have heard that every 6 db's that the sound doubles. If that is true then 2 db's would make a pretty good difference.

Ben

pat12spe

Ok, one quick question. I found out that it wasn't the muffler that was rattling, but a piece of the heat shield that is right next to it. Here's a pic of it. Any ideas on how i could insulate it or get it to stop rattling? If I push up on it while I have the system loud, it's fine, but as soon as I let go, it sounds pretty bad. Can you guys throw me some ideas? Thanks! (oh, and don't mind the big gash in my exhaust, hehe....i'm getting an all new exhaust this week)

AJ_92RS

Take it off. Go to Menards, Home Depot, or some other place like that and get a piece of angle iron, aluminum, or steel. Try and find a short piece, yet long enough to attach to the heat shield.

Rivets are the best way to hold it on there. A bead of silicone between the shield and the angle iron will help dampen the sound also.

REDRIDER89125

Hey whats up... Im not sure if you remember me or not. I was the kid that came with my friend in the purple camaro. I loved the way that the bass sounded, really good. Im thinking about doing the same setup over the summer. I printed the drawing that you made so i think that im going to go to home depot and get some mdf wood. I was wondering if it would work with 2 12'' subs instead of 2 10's... just a thought. well kit name Kevin by the way in case you didnt catch it last night.

pat12spe

Yeah, that was a nice ride, that purple camaro. 2 12's would work in that setup, it's just going to be very very tight. You may need to stretch the box out a little bit more, maybe an extra 1/4" Every little bit would help. Mine is tight in the back but I guess you could squeeze in about an extra 1/4" You may want to measure your own trunk space and find out if it will work. Lemme know how it goes.

bubbakutz

hey whats up again.........yeah the subs definatley were hitting hard as hell down opposed to up......especially when u put in that bass cd......hah when i put in the bass cd in my car......wow thats another story that i dont want to talk about.......ill definatly go with jl's for my next setup.....ive learned..its not about watts, its about the name brand......hah u definatly need to get that heatsheild fixed tho.....at some points it was louder than the bass.......

CAMp3RO

hey, had the same problem with the heat shield. i just bent mine down a bit and sprayed some expanding foam in there. no more rattles.

Xophertony

i am thinking of doing a setup like this on my recently purchased 86 Firebird. how big would i need to make the box if i am using a single 12" Pioneer IMP 500 W sub?

pat12spe

What kind of expanding foam did you use? I've never seen anything like that before. Is it something you could pick up at a home depot? Oh and xophertony, you can use 12's in this setup. You may need to squeeze every possible centimeter out of your trunk space. Your best bet would be to measure it out for yourself. I'm not sure about the bigger wattage speakers, because sometimes 12's aren't actually 12 inches. They usually have an extra 1/8 inch tucked away somewhere. And also, the lip that surrounds the speaker on the outside is usually what makes or breaks whether or not your speakers will fit.

CAMp3RO

the expanding foam i used i just picked up at walmart for around $3 a can. just normal household expanding foam. not exactly sure what its usually for, but found in the hardware-type area

bubbakutz

hey....im lookin to get those subs now.....what is the item model number thingy...

pat12spe

Surprisingly, those subs are JL Audio 10" W0's. The model number for them are PB97233. I bought them at a Tweeter for $99 each. Pretty cheap, but they sound incredible! If you wanted to go bigger you can always get the W6's. A bit more pricey but would probably punch better. Atlhough the W0's are perfect for me, enough punch without all the rattling involved (excluding that heat shield piece, haha)

bubbakutz

my friend just bought the same 10 in sub from a used stereo place.......it barely even hits.....its like 1/20 of what urs hits.....wonder why.....maybe his is old and blown....could that be the problem?

pat12spe

Yeah, more then likely they're blown. I'd never go to a used stereo store to pick up some equipment like that, especially cause you can't hear it until you hook it up. Also with the ones you buy from tweeter or best buy, you also get a warranty, so you can blow them out as many times as you want, as long as it's within the warranty year or two that they give you. Plus for $99, it's a pretty good deal to begin with.

bubbakutz

ok, yeah i gotta get the 12's cuz that is the size of the holes in my box.... should i get the 12wo's?

pat12spe

If you think your car can handle it go with something higher than a W0. The W0 will still pound hard but if you've got a higher rated amp than I do you can handle a W6. If you're strapped for cash, go with the W0's. It will still sound awesome!

bubbakutz

the only amp i have right now is a 250w mtx thunder
on a side note: the higher models are like double in price....are they really worth it?

pat12spe

The higher models will hit harder and clearer like the W6 compared to the W0, but if you're just using them for the bass like i am, than it's still good to go with the W0's. You'll still have some hard pounding for not that much money.

bubbakutz

yeah i think ur subs would do just fine......i think u heard mine