why kick panels?
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why kick panels?
Is there not enough room to mount a set of 6.5" in the doors? All you need is maybe 3" or so. Has anyone tried this? I like the kick panels but manual tranny+big feet= problem.:lala:
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The kick panels provide far better imaging, that's why.
When you move the speakers farther forward, your soundstage winds up in a more appropriate position. (i.e. farther forward), plus with the speakers in the kick panels, the distance of the speakers to your ears is as close to equal as you're going to get in a car environment. With them in the doors, one is within arm's reach, and the other one is over 6' away.
When you move the speakers farther forward, your soundstage winds up in a more appropriate position. (i.e. farther forward), plus with the speakers in the kick panels, the distance of the speakers to your ears is as close to equal as you're going to get in a car environment. With them in the doors, one is within arm's reach, and the other one is over 6' away.
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ok, well how about a better speaker for the 4x6 spots? Pioneer makes a nice one here: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/Pi...429,68,00.html
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I like the kicks, in fact these are really nice: http://www.subenclosures.com/
I am just concerned about my big feet and the clutch.
I am just concerned about my big feet and the clutch.
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Car: '96 M3
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Here's a pic of one of the vinyl kicks installed in a manual trans car. It looks like plenty of clearance to me. I guess it depend on how big your feet really are!
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anyone know where to get these other than www.subenclosures.com ? His are nice, just wanted to compare price/quality.
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Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
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Here's a link to a place that sells Q-forms. I've heard bad things about them though. I've heard of other people selling fiberglass ones, but I don't know who they are or how to find them.
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/QLCQLK1005B80
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/QLCQLK1005B80
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Car: '96 M3
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On second thought, I'll just post the pic:
(This one is for 4th gen, but I think they're the same basic design)
(This one is for 4th gen, but I think they're the same basic design)
Last edited by REZN8R; 12-11-2002 at 03:05 PM.
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unless you have a lot of fiberglass experience, your best bet is probably gonna be http://www.subenclosures.com/ -- you wont find better quality kicks for cheaper anywhere else.
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soon, ill have production Doorpods, fiberglassed easy install.
it will hold a 6.5 component set. i used to run these. but now want more professional ones.
theyll be done by Fyberdesignz, ill letcha kno, im sending my panels to him, jan 6, so theyll be in a couple weeks after that.
it will hold a 6.5 component set. i used to run these. but now want more professional ones.
theyll be done by Fyberdesignz, ill letcha kno, im sending my panels to him, jan 6, so theyll be in a couple weeks after that.
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I'm selling a pair of brand new Q-logics on ebay right now, cheap!!! I started them at $35+$11 S&H. Item # 1945528478
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Originally posted by shadow350
anyone know where to get these other than www.subenclosures.com ? His are nice, just wanted to compare price/quality.
anyone know where to get these other than www.subenclosures.com ? His are nice, just wanted to compare price/quality.
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i had a set of q-forms, but after hearing them in a friends car i thought they sucked, i contacted dave, sold my q-forms and got a set from him (rezn8r subenclosures.com one and the same) i am so glad i switched, the sound is not even comparable, especially for the price
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Not sure if it was mentioned, but if you have power windows, the window motor is exactly where you could mount a door speaker. It simply would not fit.
Gotta get the kicks
Gotta get the kicks
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I'm not sure about the rest of you but I haev kicks and they play directly into my legs and sound like @$$. IMO the best front speaker is a 4x6 plate.
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Originally posted by Cronic3rd
I'm not sure about the rest of you but I haev kicks and they play directly into my legs and sound like @$$. IMO the best front speaker is a 4x6 plate.
I'm not sure about the rest of you but I haev kicks and they play directly into my legs and sound like @$$. IMO the best front speaker is a 4x6 plate.
Dash speakers suck. For one, they are incredibly harsh because you're getting the reflection off the glass. Secondly, because one is so close and the other is a mile away, you get a horrible imbalance which translates into lousy imaging and terrible staging. If you tweak the balance **** to get a somewhat tolerable balance, the passenger gets blasted all from 1 speaker.
With kicks that are properly set up you get a much, much wider soundstage with more precise imaging and a much smoother frequency response. When you close your eyes, the vocals come from the center of my windshield... for BOTH driver and passenger. Try that with dash speakers.
The other advantage is that you can fit much higher quality stuff into the kicks than you can into the dash.
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Originally posted by Jim85IROC
because one is so close and the other is a mile away, you get a horrible imbalance which translates into lousy imaging and terrible staging. If you tweak the balance **** to get a somewhat tolerable balance, the passenger gets blasted all from 1 speaker.
because one is so close and the other is a mile away, you get a horrible imbalance which translates into lousy imaging and terrible staging. If you tweak the balance **** to get a somewhat tolerable balance, the passenger gets blasted all from 1 speaker.
I researched this speaker placement for Months before deciding to change my speakers to Polk Audio 4x6's and rear 5 1/4"s and also Time Aligned my speakers. The imaging and staging is great and it's the best compromise for people that can't use kickpanels do to space limitations.
Last edited by GKK; 12-24-2002 at 10:32 AM.
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Personally I really like the way dash speakers sound. And my kicks are Q-Logic with Directed 6 1/2 components amped with a 50x4 crossfire amp. he **** is setup good it is just that I'm a big dude and there is no way the sound can excape past my legs. BTW I wear a size 15 shoe and have no problems with the kicks interfearing with the clutch.
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Originally posted by GKK
Actually, I measured the distance from my ears to each left & right speaker location (Dash, Door and Kickpanel area) to find which area was more Balanced and I found that the Dash speakers were the Closest to being Balanced than any other location. The Kickpanel location was 3" further off balance than the Dash location. The Door location was the worst.
I researched this speaker placement for Months before deciding to change my speakers to Polk Audio 4x6's and rear 5 1/4"s and also Time Aligned my speakers. The imaging and staging is great and it's the best compromise for people that can't use kickpanels do to space limitations.
Actually, I measured the distance from my ears to each left & right speaker location (Dash, Door and Kickpanel area) to find which area was more Balanced and I found that the Dash speakers were the Closest to being Balanced than any other location. The Kickpanel location was 3" further off balance than the Dash location. The Door location was the worst.
I researched this speaker placement for Months before deciding to change my speakers to Polk Audio 4x6's and rear 5 1/4"s and also Time Aligned my speakers. The imaging and staging is great and it's the best compromise for people that can't use kickpanels do to space limitations.
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Update: Sold Camaro, now own a "91" Corvette.
Engine: Corvette L98 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I have my 4x6's wired in a "Time Aligned" configuration which Greatly improves the imaging. Please refer to this sight for an explanation of Time Aligning the speakers. www.decware.com click on Car Audio then click on "Schematic for better RTA scores".
My Polk Audio 4x6's and 5 1/4"s sound Awesome wired in this fashion compared to the traditional four channel wiring. I paid the $10 to get the wiring Diagram and it was the best investment I ever made.
My Polk Audio 4x6's and 5 1/4"s sound Awesome wired in this fashion compared to the traditional four channel wiring. I paid the $10 to get the wiring Diagram and it was the best investment I ever made.
Last edited by GKK; 01-01-2003 at 01:19 PM.
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I'm with a few of the others on here, though it may not be my area of expertise (whereas home audio is)...home can speakers of that size in line with feet provide better imaging...? I could understand something moving a bit more air, but 6" or whatever...? I'd love more details.
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Car and home audio are completely diffrent. In a car since the area is very small and enclosed speakers have much less air to move and therefore smaller speakers are much louder than they would be in a home enviroment where the air to move is nearly infinate.
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The sound produced by midrange and tweeters is very directional, therefore having it pointed towards you (or your ears) is much more desirable than having the highs reflect off the windshield. You have to take the time to properly set up the kicks or you won't get the full effect.
Take your home audio speakers (the ones that produce mids and highs) and angle them towards the wall and stand behind them, and then turn them around and play the same sound/music, and tell me you can't hear a difference....
Take your home audio speakers (the ones that produce mids and highs) and angle them towards the wall and stand behind them, and then turn them around and play the same sound/music, and tell me you can't hear a difference....
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Originally posted by Azure
I'm with a few of the others on here, though it may not be my area of expertise (whereas home audio is)...home can speakers of that size in line with feet provide better imaging...? I could understand something moving a bit more air, but 6" or whatever...? I'd love more details.
I'm with a few of the others on here, though it may not be my area of expertise (whereas home audio is)...home can speakers of that size in line with feet provide better imaging...? I could understand something moving a bit more air, but 6" or whatever...? I'd love more details.
A car environment is a VERY non-ideal place to listen to music. Fortunately, good car audio drivers take this into consideration when they are designed. Unlike a pair of home speakers, whose design is usually centered around making a very narrow vertical projection area, the car drivers are designed for a very wide dispersion pattern. This helps to overcome the all too common situation where you can not have the drivers aimed directly at you. This works well not only for the obvious reason that you can't always point them at you, but also because it allows you to be able to intentionally focus the drivers away from you. By focusing the passenger speaker directly at you, and focusing the driver's side speaker toward the passenger, you wind up with an attenuation of the speaker on your particular side without disrupting the overall sound characteristics. The result is a good image for both passengers, and an overall tonal balance that's as good as can be expected in a car environment.
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Originally posted by GKK
I have my 4x6's wired in a "Time Aligned" configuration which Greatly improves the imaging. Please refer to this sight for an explanation of Time Aligning the speakers. www.decware.com click on Car Audio then click on "Schematic for better RTA scores".
My Polk Audio 4x6's and 5 1/4"s sound AWESOME wired in this fashion compared to the Kickpanels. I paid the $10 to get the wiring Diagram and it was the best investment I ever made.
Please don't say 4X6 dash speaker Imaging could never sound as good as or better than Kicks unless You've Actually Heard speakers wired in this Time Aligned technique.
I have my 4x6's wired in a "Time Aligned" configuration which Greatly improves the imaging. Please refer to this sight for an explanation of Time Aligning the speakers. www.decware.com click on Car Audio then click on "Schematic for better RTA scores".
My Polk Audio 4x6's and 5 1/4"s sound AWESOME wired in this fashion compared to the Kickpanels. I paid the $10 to get the wiring Diagram and it was the best investment I ever made.
Please don't say 4X6 dash speaker Imaging could never sound as good as or better than Kicks unless You've Actually Heard speakers wired in this Time Aligned technique.
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time alignment can work well for only 1 position within the vehicle. If you use it to get good imaging from the driver's seat, the passenger image is going to be destroyed. Not a big deal if you're the only one that listens to tunes, but if you have passengers or if you compete, you're not going to be happy with the results.
Plus, time alignment helps with the distance issue, but doesn't address phasing and frequency response issues. It can be helpful, but it isn't a cure-all.
Plus, time alignment helps with the distance issue, but doesn't address phasing and frequency response issues. It can be helpful, but it isn't a cure-all.
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time alignment can work well for only 1 position within the vehicle.
All you need to do is buy the Schematic wiring Diagram for $10 and wire the speakers up according to the Diagram you don't have to buy anything else. I have the Diagram but, will not post it because I feel it's wrong to give out other peoples information without them getting paid for it. (Everybody needs to make a living somehow right?).
Anyways, the sound from my Polk Audio Dash and Rear speakers sound Great wired this way and IMO is a good compromise for people that can't or don't want to use Kicks.
Last edited by GKK; 01-01-2003 at 01:24 PM.
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Can you explain to me how time alignment is going to benefit multiple positions?
Let's take dash speakers as an example. Let's say that the driver's dash speaker is 3' away from the left ear, and the passenger speaker is 5' away from the right ear. So... assuming a 1ms propigation time per foot of difference, that means that you'd want a 2ms delay on the driver's speaker in order to have proper time alignment at the driver's head.
Then there's the passenger, who has the driver's speaker 5' away, and the passenger speaker 3' away. Add the propigation delay with the added 2ms delay, and you have the equivalent of a driver speaker that's 7' away... worse than you started.
I'm no time alignment expert, so it's quite possible that I'm off track here. If you care to take the time to explain the theory behind how it can benefit multiple positions, I'd appreciate it.
P.S. I've seen the advertisement for this $10 wonder, and half of the description is full of technical sh*t. From the sound of his description, all he's doing is introducing a phase shift to one of the drivers, which is a lot different than true time alignment. He uses a lot of buzz-words that add up to complete bullsh*t.
Hua? Your ears don't give a sh*t what time it gets there. I don't see how time alignment could possibly change fatiguing like he says, but I'm no doctor so I'll stay out of that discussion. I've got enough ammo on the rest of what he says.
True. Too bad he doesn't mention that the phase change is relative to frequency when dealing with a fixed distance from the source. Every time the frequency doubles, so does the degree of phase change. If you've got a 90* phase change at 2k, at 4k, since the sine wave is 1/2 the size, you will have a 180* phase change.
Oh please. The only possible way for any of this to have any truth is if this "circuit" lowers the overall impedance, which will create a load that's difficult for the head unit to drive, and can result in damage to the deck.
At what frequency? At what distance? This is just an arbitrary number that doesn't mean anything. And what's this about being wired in series? 2 series-wired drivers will not have a phase shift. Furthermore, if this wiring scheme requires you to series wire them, your stereo image is going to vaporize.
After reading about this miracle device, I'm 10x more skeptical. His description alone has enough techical bullsh*t for me not to believe any of his claims. Now I really need a good, physics-filled description to satisfy my skepticism.
Let's take dash speakers as an example. Let's say that the driver's dash speaker is 3' away from the left ear, and the passenger speaker is 5' away from the right ear. So... assuming a 1ms propigation time per foot of difference, that means that you'd want a 2ms delay on the driver's speaker in order to have proper time alignment at the driver's head.
Then there's the passenger, who has the driver's speaker 5' away, and the passenger speaker 3' away. Add the propigation delay with the added 2ms delay, and you have the equivalent of a driver speaker that's 7' away... worse than you started.
I'm no time alignment expert, so it's quite possible that I'm off track here. If you care to take the time to explain the theory behind how it can benefit multiple positions, I'd appreciate it.
P.S. I've seen the advertisement for this $10 wonder, and half of the description is full of technical sh*t. From the sound of his description, all he's doing is introducing a phase shift to one of the drivers, which is a lot different than true time alignment. He uses a lot of buzz-words that add up to complete bullsh*t.
Time alignment solves this problem and makes it possible to hear sound coming from each of the four speakers at all times regardless of where your head is. It also completely opens up and stops fatiguing/compressing the ears. Details in the music come from space in the car and never from the exact speaker locations - as it should be.
To understand time alignment, you need to understand phase, and phasing relationships between various parts in the audio circuit. Absolute phase means that when the audio signal goes positive, the speaker cone pushes into the listening space. Reversing the speaker wires reverse the phase, and the phase angle becomes 180 degrees rather than absolute zero. If left in reverse phase, the sound will be delayed by 1/2 cycle. This delay can be converted to inches based on frequency and effects the arrival times of sound to the ear. The ear perceives this as depth or distance from the sound emitting object.
A high power head unit will power a 4 speaker system (6 if tweeters are added) to a surprising loudness, usually enough to eliminate the need for an amplifier. This is because the impedance of the speaker circuit works differently than before and drastically lowers distortion at high output levels.
It takes advantage of the natural phase shifts of around 15 degrees between drivers when two drivers are wired in series
After reading about this miracle device, I'm 10x more skeptical. His description alone has enough techical bullsh*t for me not to believe any of his claims. Now I really need a good, physics-filled description to satisfy my skepticism.
Last edited by Jim85IROC; 12-30-2002 at 03:19 PM.
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I'm sure the Time Alignment Diagram will not sound as good as a Professionally set up sound competition vehicle but, for a modest 4 speaker system with an amp and subwoofer it does Wonders.
And all for just a few simple speaker wiring changes.
And all for just a few simple speaker wiring changes.
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Originally posted by joezero
But do you still have left and right channels, or does this create a mono setup?
But do you still have left and right channels, or does this create a mono setup?
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Car: 98 Z28 vert
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$10 bucks isn't alot of money at all. Why not pay the man 10 bucks see his diagram. try it out and see what you think? as long as he doesn't have you do something stupid and blow your amp/deck what harm is it? it might be **** it might be the **** how can you know with out trying? 10 bucks is worth a try IMO.
#45
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Originally posted by Cronic3rd
$10 bucks isn't alot of money at all. Why not pay the man 10 bucks see his diagram. try it out and see what you think? as long as he doesn't have you do something stupid and blow your amp/deck what harm is it? it might be **** it might be the **** how can you know with out trying? 10 bucks is worth a try IMO.
$10 bucks isn't alot of money at all. Why not pay the man 10 bucks see his diagram. try it out and see what you think? as long as he doesn't have you do something stupid and blow your amp/deck what harm is it? it might be **** it might be the **** how can you know with out trying? 10 bucks is worth a try IMO.
I don't know for sure that it doesn't help. All I do know is that he's offered no legit information to help me believe that it does work. The info on his website is bogus bullsh*t. Some of the crap he spews on his subwoofer box descriptions is even more ridiculous than the stuff pertaining to this $10 diagram. Everything on that site is techno babble that makes no sense to anybody that actually has knowledge of physics and electrical theory.
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Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
I've seen this diagram. I don't recall who gave it to me, but I do remember it was someone from this message board.
We had an agreement that if I liked the results I would then pay the $10 to "officially" buy the diagram. If I didn't like the results I would not pay..... however I would still keep the diagram confined to my computer.
Unfortunelty I'm a man of my word, so I'm not going to post it here. I can tell you, based on my experience with it, it was a waste of my time. It didn't help with my overall sound quality at all. Did I notice a difference..... Yes. I noticed that the phase shift caused a loss in midbass/midrange.
This could easily be percieved by the average "Joe" to make his system sound better because the higher and lower frequencies would seem louder. That's what the average "Joe" is normally impressed by, so it wouldn't be hard to do. To someone like myself or Jim (and a few others here) who are impressed with ambiance, imaging, and "flat" sound, it would not sound good. It's equivilent to cranking the bass and treble controls on your HU up all the way.
Again.... this is based on my ears, not someone else's. A friend of mine also heard it (yes....he sat in the driver's seat) and he said he didn't notice a difference at all. But since he doesn't hear my system everyday like I do, his judgement was not as critical as mine, therefore I doubt his concern was either.
We had an agreement that if I liked the results I would then pay the $10 to "officially" buy the diagram. If I didn't like the results I would not pay..... however I would still keep the diagram confined to my computer.
Unfortunelty I'm a man of my word, so I'm not going to post it here. I can tell you, based on my experience with it, it was a waste of my time. It didn't help with my overall sound quality at all. Did I notice a difference..... Yes. I noticed that the phase shift caused a loss in midbass/midrange.
This could easily be percieved by the average "Joe" to make his system sound better because the higher and lower frequencies would seem louder. That's what the average "Joe" is normally impressed by, so it wouldn't be hard to do. To someone like myself or Jim (and a few others here) who are impressed with ambiance, imaging, and "flat" sound, it would not sound good. It's equivilent to cranking the bass and treble controls on your HU up all the way.
Again.... this is based on my ears, not someone else's. A friend of mine also heard it (yes....he sat in the driver's seat) and he said he didn't notice a difference at all. But since he doesn't hear my system everyday like I do, his judgement was not as critical as mine, therefore I doubt his concern was either.
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Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
BTW..... to remain on topic of the post.....
I have kickpanels. I still have the "unhooked" Alpine 4x6s in the dash because I have no intention of using them again.
I bought the kicks from DJSexay RIGHT when he said he was selling the molds. OMG!!!!! What a difference. All I have in there for now are some Jensen 6.5" coaxials. The next stereo upgrade is gonna be components .
Just changing the location of the speakers like that was beautiful. The Jensens have a tweeter I can aim, so I was able to angle them toward the opposite side passenger, and it sounds like my dash speakers are still hooked up.
Anyone who's never heard my system before gets in, listens, then asks me what I have in the dash. I say "nothing". They look at me funny, then put their hand up there to try and cover the sound I just laugh after they figure out there's nothing up there.
I have kickpanels. I still have the "unhooked" Alpine 4x6s in the dash because I have no intention of using them again.
I bought the kicks from DJSexay RIGHT when he said he was selling the molds. OMG!!!!! What a difference. All I have in there for now are some Jensen 6.5" coaxials. The next stereo upgrade is gonna be components .
Just changing the location of the speakers like that was beautiful. The Jensens have a tweeter I can aim, so I was able to angle them toward the opposite side passenger, and it sounds like my dash speakers are still hooked up.
Anyone who's never heard my system before gets in, listens, then asks me what I have in the dash. I say "nothing". They look at me funny, then put their hand up there to try and cover the sound I just laugh after they figure out there's nothing up there.
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formula00ra
Interior Parts Wanted
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09-28-2015 11:50 AM