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Wilwood Forged Dynalite rear parking brake kit / Ford 9"
I did a search and couldn't find much, If anyone has them what did you do to get Wilwood parking brakes to work? Universal cable, modify current cables ?
I haven't installed it yet, but I have a Strange S60 with Wilwood Dynapro Low-Profile Rear Parking Brake Kit Prod #: 140-11389. I'm going to try to use BCA94264 cables from Advance Auto. I think I've read every parking brake cable thread on this site 3x, and that seems to be the most recommended part number.
I figured that it was a good risk to buy cables under $40, than to go for a Wilwood or Lokar universal cable at ~$110 or more.
Hopefully I'll finish coating the new axle with POR-15 next weekend, then I'll start the installation.
On a side note, it did seem to make a difference regarding which type of cable adjuster you have though. So you may need to look at that first.
I've got the axle bolted in tonight and just did a quick dry fit of the cables. The cable end will have to be modified to fit the Wilwood lever, but that was expected as everyone else says the same about having to open it up slightly to fit over the lever.
The cable housing is way too long, only because my brake cable attaches to the brake bracket on the front of the axle. If the cable attached on the back then it would have worked great. I think that I can still make this work, but I will have to let the cable go forward, around the shock then back to the axle tube, attaching there before it goes forward to the adjuster in the tunnel. Not big enough of a deal for me to switch my mind and buy that $120 universal kit yet. I think that I can make this work.
Haven't had the time or desired weather yet to try. Been too cold to even want to work in the garage (8* F right now), and a million other excuses. The cold broke my garage door yesterday morning and my DD wiper transmission broke after 3 swipes last night so I've got to fix those today. I might work on it after I fix those since I will already be warming up the garage.
Well I went out to the garage this evening and while I can fit the cables alright, they're too short to loop up over the "guides" on the sides of the tunnel just behind the adjuster. So when they are connected to the adjuster it pulls it down too low and only leaves about 1/4 inch clearance between the cable adjuster and the driveshaft. So they would certainly hit over every bump. I've got some thinking to do, but I may cut the ends off both the new disc cables and old drum cables to make the length I need and just crimp them together with some cable ferrules. I'm not set on that yet. I am going to do some more internet digging specific to the cable and housing lengths I had with the OE drum cables and see if I can find a part number equivalent to it. Thinking is free and Wilwood Universal Park Brake cables still aren't cheap.
I don't know if it was a fresh mind or new thought, but I climbed under the car tonight to see how much I should trim the cable housing. This time, I connected to the brake lever on the axle, routed the same as I did last time, connected to the adjuster and routed the cable up over those guides. Then I realized how little I needed to go to just install the end of the cable housing into the retainer. So they fit, kind of. You can see here that I have to retain or secure the excess cable near the center of the axles housing on each side, but I'm going to see how this works out this summer. Left parking cable. Right parking cable. Adjuster and guides.
Yes, I'm happy I tried again before cutting cables apart. Here's a summary of what did:
I had to slot the square cable end with a Dremel to fit it over the caliper brake lever. Connected rear of cable to the caliper and into its bracket, connected front of cable to the adjuster above the driveshaft, routed the cable over the guide on the side of the driveshaft tunnel, then pulled the housing backwards to fit it into the cable bracket. Then the same on the other side.
Depending on how loose your front cable adjuster is you may need to pull on the caliper lever to get the cable housing into the front bracket. This wasn't hard for me because I haven't tightened up the brake drum adjusters inside the rotors yet. I'm going to get some large cable or tubing retainers similar to what holds the fuel and brake lines on the body (but much bigger) and attach them at the swaybar bracket on the axle tubes. I think that will hold these cables up enough, and let them move enough to prevent binding.
I changed my mind about how to retain the extra cable length. I used some small wire (from an old paint can handle) to form a bracket into a shape that would hold the cable where I want it. Then using this as a template, I bought some 3/16" rod and bent it into the same square bracket shape using a torch, bench vise, and a hammer to shape it. I will use the forward bolts of the sway bar bushing brackets to attach these cable brackets to the axle tubes. You can see where I hammered it flat for the bolt hole, that kept it from wiggling around as I tightened it up.
Last edited by Lurbie; 03-25-2019 at 11:51 AM.
Reason: To add installed pic
Finally ended up trying this on my Moser 9", I bought two stock replacement cables C93482 which are both passenger side cables and shortest at 48.25 overall length. The driver side was longer and didn't feel that it was needed which is why I went with 2 passenger side cables. I also ordered lokar Clevis kit EV-81FC to attach the cable to the wilwood parking brake lever, the trick is to cut a small slot on the bottom of the clevis feed the cable in and tack weld the slot closed. This worked flawlessly on my rear end
01-06-2019, 07:08 AM
