rear disc brake questions/ seized bleeders
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: LG4 305/4bbl for now
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
rear disc brake questions/ seized bleeders
so my 84 Z28 came with the factory rear disc brakes, the pedal is soft and was going to bleed the system, I went to loosen the bleeders and them are seized, big surprise I know, and everyone wants an arm and a leg for manufactured rear calipers. So I was wondering if anyone had a trick to getting the bleeders loose again without breaking them off.
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Car: 1985 trans am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: rear disc brake questions/ seized bleeders
You can always shoot it with penetrating oil multiple times and see if it loosens up the rust
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: AT
Re: rear disc brake questions/ seized bleeders
Apply PB Blaster to the outside and inside of the bleed screw, then immediately strike the bleed screw (Moderately) w/ a hammer. Hitting STRAIGHT DOWN, as if it's a nail your driving. BUT NOT THAT HARD!! Goal is to shock the threads to loosen and draw in the fluid.
This should be done several times a day, for a few days. I have had veh's on my lift for a week or more, doing other work and repeated this quick procedure dozens of times, before attempting to loosen. Depend on time constraints.
I have heated iron calipers, not aluminium. Get it red then remove the heat. This destroys the rust . Too much heat and the screw will melt, of the hose might (in extream cases) burst. (WEAR goggles, of course)
When ready to remove, I prefer a six point, tight fitting socket and an impact wrench. I find it works better than twisting w/ a hand ratchet.
Good luck, some are just gonna break, no matter what. But the more time and effort, improves odds.
This should be done several times a day, for a few days. I have had veh's on my lift for a week or more, doing other work and repeated this quick procedure dozens of times, before attempting to loosen. Depend on time constraints.
I have heated iron calipers, not aluminium. Get it red then remove the heat. This destroys the rust . Too much heat and the screw will melt, of the hose might (in extream cases) burst. (WEAR goggles, of course)
When ready to remove, I prefer a six point, tight fitting socket and an impact wrench. I find it works better than twisting w/ a hand ratchet.
Good luck, some are just gonna break, no matter what. But the more time and effort, improves odds.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: AT
Re: rear disc brake questions/ seized bleeders
ps If it breaks and you want to drill it out, get left hand drill bits!
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Car: 88 rs
Engine: ls1
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: moser 4:10
Re: rear disc brake questions/ seized bleeders
Use a new-good pair of small vise-grips. Then clamp them on the bleeder very tight, and hit the vise-grip with a hammer. I've had very good luck with that.
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