InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

How in the hell do you guys get these things out? A hammer and a screwdriver isnt doing anything. Either the angle isnt enough to keep the blade of the screwdriver on the race or it just ends up hammering into the side of the rotor and the race doesn't move at all.

So I need something else. Some sort of punch maybe? What do I need to go buy to get these things out?

And I have an LS1 brake setup with turned down rotors, so going to buy new rotors isnt an option.



Seems like no matter what I try I cant get ANYTHING to catch that lip unless i hit it at some ridiculous angle.

kauboy

Buy a drift punch.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

+1

JamesC

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

+2

Or, a large chisel; and realize that it's going to get destroyed.

A screwdriver isn't going to cut it. You might as well try to torque your head bolts with that.

Clean the grease out of the center of the hub, in between the races. You'll find that there are 2 grooves that you can get the corner of your new punch or chisel onto the back of the race. Then all you need is a BFH to go with the other, and they'll just jump right out of there for you.

Use the old races as the press to put the new ones in. BE CAREFUL not to get them cocked in the bore.

gt4373

Very Carefully,Check This Guy Out He Did A Pretty Good Job.

-AO-

Just buy new rotors. They are only like $30 and include new studs and races.

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

He said he has the hubs modified for LS1 front brakes, so there is no need to get new rotors.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

There are no grooves/notches in these. I looked for them. That rough surface in the picture is the casting, not grease.

90camaro355rs

You will need a good punch, put the punch on the inner edge of the race, and hit with BFH do not be afraid of hitting it hard, it will take a bit to get it out rotate from one side to the other, it will come out

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I bought a set of 6 punches. The only one that will catch on that lip at all just broke off at the tip. It was a super tiny one. All the rest slip off. The picture makes it look like it's a reasonably-sized ledge to catch on there, but it's just emphasizing it because of the flash. It's 1mm or less all the way around. On one side it's about .5 mm. Just nowhere near enough for anything to get a bite on it.

There's just nothing to grab onto behind that race. Im gonna take it to a machine shop tomorrow.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

There's a groove. They ALL have that.

well, take that back... I haven't seen "every" one that's ever been made... some cheeeeeep chineez knockoffs they mighta left that out of, just so you'd have to buy another when the time came, ... but, stock? good-quality US or otherwise quality-concerned replacements? all have the notches

If the ones you have don't have notches, throw em in the trash, and cut down some that do, to replace em.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

What I use to remove
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/objec...9300/19287.JPG

What I use To install
http://tools.boxwrench.net/images/al...driver-kit.png

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Are you serious? Just toss em? I dont have the tools to cut down a new set of rotors, I got lucky to have a friend of mine who was willing to do it the first time. If I can find a shop to do get these races out for me do you still think it's a better use of my time to just have them turn down new rotors and for me to replace the studs without a press? Just seems like a PITA.



There are no notches. In fact you can see where the inner wall is shiny and smooth on one side(3 o clock to 5 o clock area) where they machined out the center bore from the rough casting. There is no groove.

They were just run of the mill parts store rotors. About 30-40ea if I recall.

cozwurth

You don't need to get the entire tip of the punch on the lip of the race. Use the edge of a larger punch, and don't be afraid to hit it hard. Work from side to side and it will come out.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Maybe you can then. It's certainly not something I can do. Even soft blows will knock the thing right off. Little punch broke, big punch just slips.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yup, I'd throw that in the trash.

That's not stock. That's ALOT worse than stock. Stock ones have notches to put a tool in.

Re-do that part, with better cores as your starting point.

Sux to have to be the bearer of bad newz; but I am forced to confess, I have NEVER in all my days, seen any of those that didn't have the notches. Not that I've seen all that many; not more than a few hundred I'd guess, maybe a thousand but maybe not. Up in there somewhere. And that's not just front rotors, it's EVERYTHING with pressed-in outer races; rear ends, lawn mowers, machine tools, .... EVERYTHING. d00d, I kinda hate to have to say it, but you got HOSED big-time on that one. You are now the proud victim of a one-way-er. (together ONCE, not ever apart)

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

A one-way-er...

Oh well, I'll see if a machine shop can figure out some way to get it out, if not I'll just have them turn down a new rotor for me I at least feel a little bit less ridiculous for not being able to get it out now.

And as far as hosed, maybe, these dont have any money invested into them, just sucks I now have to go back and do it the hard way.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Yet another argument for Kore3 hubs.

Not my photo.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I can tell that photo is sub-standard Still a purty piece, though.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Kore3 hubs are aluminum yes? I've heard of a lot of people having problems with those in HPDE's... If I recall, people claimed that they chew up bearings pretty bad.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

By far the easiest way is to run around them with a tig torch, they will just fall out. That's how I always do it. Could do it with MIG also but use anti spatter spray as not to get spatter where you do not want it

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I don't want to derail this thread.

They are aluminum, either 6061 or 7075 depending on options. I have been in thirdgens for quite a while and have never heard of anyone having issues with the Kore3 hubs. I have used many sets of these and have not had issues.

If someone wanted the ultimate in bearing support, then I would recommend another excellent Kore3 product.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=236934

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Im thinking it was something to do with the aluminum hubs absorbing more heat from the brakes and cooking the bearings... but I cant find where I read it so maybe I just made it up.

For the record, Im feeling pretty ill today, so I just hammered the race back in the .5 mm that I had managed to move it, and Im just going to run new bearings in the old races. The race looks fine. So if it causes a problem I will just buy new hubs. For what it's worth, scott at BBU said this lack of notches in rotors is pretty common these days, but if i got a set from him he could get me some that were more easily servicable.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

My next big project after I get these new wheels and tires on the car is getting myself a welder, but I imagine a tig is pretty far off.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Doesn't get much better than 7075!

Smart chassis builders & racers pay attention to the thrust load rating on the outer bearing of the front hubs. This smaller bearing is the weak link. When you drive a heavy full size car deep into the corner, brake hard & corner at high g loads … the weakest link is the small outside front hub bearing … and you know what happens to the weakest link.

Bearings used in the hubs on 3500# cars won’t have failure problems unless run too long, but will have wear issues & need to be checked on a regular basis. They may need to be replaced more often than expected.

Just for reference, here are the thrust load ratings for other outer hub bearings:
• Pinto/Mustang II/Granada/Willwood Pro Spindle use LM12749 Bearing rated at 921#
• Most GM mid-size cars (A, F & X Body) from 60’s & 70’s use LM11949 Bearing rated at 917#
• GM ‘79-‘81 G & F-Bodies use M12649 Bearing rated at 1130#
• GM ‘82-‘88 G-Bodies use LM12749 Bearing rated at 921#
• GM 70’s Impala & C10 Pickup use M12649 Bearing rated at 1130#
• Oval Track 5x5 hubs (many brands) use 368A Bearing rated at 2540#
• Oval Track Wide 5 Hubs (many brands) use 18690 Bearing rated at 1800#

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Thats what I came to post. My cousin does this all the time to stuck bearings. Grabs the welder, welds right around the race, and they pratically fall out. Never done it myself though. Only had 1 set stuck that bad and he got them out in no time.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Aluminum hubs will dissipate heat faster than iron. Same as aluminum cylinder heads vs iron. Either way the separate hub from rotor will be better since there is a thermal break in between the two. To make this even more effective you could run a very thin stainless or titanium shim in between the hub and rotor to act as an insulator.

Sounds like a plan on your existing hub. Just make sure you get the race seated.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Another good reason to use the Kore3 7075 hubs as they desiged for the larger SET3 outer wheel bearing.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Just to clarify, is the heat from the TIG torch being used to heat the hub around the outside of the bearing race area?

Or is the heat directed right at the tapered portion of the race?

RBob.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I found a writeup on that the other day, actually. It's my understanding that you weld directly onto the surface of the race that the rollers would be touching. And I think what happens is you weld a bead all the way around. As it cools, it contracts and the bead itself slightly shrinks, pulling the rest of the race in with it.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

InfernalVortex, that makes sense. The cooling of the weld does pull metal together. Thanks.

RBob.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

You run the over the tapered race, no need for filler...just run it around, let it cool a little and it will fall out.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Yep! Weld on the race. My idea was to weld a piece of metal across the race to have something to drive against. Thats when I was told the simplier way. Worked great on the rear bearings of a 400EX.

tpi88camaro

iTrader: (7)

Why not just take a die grinder and make 2 notches behind the race opposite each other? Wouldn't take much to allow you to get a good bite on that race. There should be plenty of material there to do this.

nhgator

Just reach in with a torch and slice it in 2 places,falls right out,the ones on my truck I bent 2 slide hammers and pounded my arms numb,I finally just sliced them with a torch right out.

rusty vango

I use part of a old lug wrench,a BFH, and a piece of 2x12.you CAN damage the hub if you don't remove it evenly. it will make the new race fit loose if you do. go slow,pray to the diety of your choice,and good luck

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I just threw it back together and hoped for the best. New bearings, old races.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Learn something new every day...

-- Joe