B4CHawk

I've had an issue with this car pulling particularly hard to the drivers side under hard braking ever since I've owned it. I've already searched and found no answers. In the time I've owned it I've replaced:

The master cylinder (twice)

The prop valve

All brake hoses

All calipers.

Different brake pads, currently using Stillen Metal Matrix pads

All rotors

Suspension has been altered, first to factory fresh 1LE, then to ground control weight jacks.

Through 4 different alignments.

3 different type of fluids, all pressure bled. Currently Amsoil dot 3 synthetic.

It has pulled hard to the left under hard braking through all of this. At speed this is pretty hard to wrestle, and makes me hesitant to take it to Willow or any other track day. It doesn't really matter at autocross because of low speed.

Anything else I should be looking for?

peterc005

Get a tape measure to compare the distance between the wheels on either side of the car. If possible, measure from the centre of the front and rear axles.

Possibly there is old accident damage?

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Wow you really covered everything. Only thing left is the hard lines... Have you checked to see if maybe one of them got pinched during an engine swap or something?

B4CHawk

That's pretty much the last thing to check... and I missed my chance when the motor was out. I wanted to make up some gauges so I can actually measure the psi at each caliper.

peterc005

It's unlikely to the be the brakes, but you could check by jacking the car up and spinning the wheels by hand.

Wheel bearings?

Tie rods?

Idler and Pitman arms?

B4CHawk

All of those are new with <3000 miles on them.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

This only happens under braking, yes? It doesnt do anything odd under acceleration?

Have you tried to pull the e-brake and see if it does it? All that would do is see if the forces on the rear axle are twisting it somehow. It would actually completely isolate the braking system (ebrake is not hydraulic) and see if the axle is somehow able to rotate when a load is placed on it in that direction. You would probably see this when reversing, too, so it probably wont tell you anything.

Maybe try getting one of those self-bleeder kits, and run a line into a graduated cylinder and then crack open the bleeder screw, give a full pump to the brake pedal and see if the amount of fluid moved is the same side to side.

Also, I think caster would slightly affect this... Im having ah ard time believing it would be as severe as you say but my friend works at a tire shop and says they literally never check caster/camber. When you get an alignment they just set toe and send you on your way.

These hydraulic systems are really pretty simple... so when they dont act right it's pretty perplexing.

IROCU2

Have you checked your upper control arm bushing to see if they are worn? This could be a possible cause for your pulling to the left.

B4CHawk

My alignment was done by one of the most meticulous alignment guys on the west coast, Darren at West End Alignment... it's confirmed for good.

I think my next step is testing hydraulic pressure.

B4CHawk

All components are new.

383RAT

I had a pull I couldn't figure out for a while. Mine turned out to be from the after market headers. The headers ran to close to the brake lines heating up only one line. My pull started a little bit then got worse and worse the longer i drove. If your pulling is like mine, you might want to consider a heat problem. After getting the headers coated and moving the line 1 more inch away the pull never happened again.