87350IROC

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We started this discussion in another thread. I decided to make a thread to keep things separated.

The idea is to create a bracket to mount Wilwood FSL calipers to the 9 bolt using a 12" 2pc rotor. The question is, do we need an e-brake?

If not, this should be pretty easy. If we do need an e-brake it gets a bit more challenging. What kind of e-brake?

Internal drum?
or
Seperate spot caliper?

John

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I am looking at how Wilwood did it for the 10 bolt. They used the existing 10 bolt caliper / brake bracket. Then they converted it to a radial mount for the FSL caliper. And their two piece (iron) hat has a friction surface inside of it for the e-brake. So we may be able to use that hat. Although the hat is expensive at $190 each.

Need to look at how the LS1 e-brake is put together. If anyone has a LS1 e-brake assembly / caliper bracket handy, I could really use some measurements. Detailed pictures would help too. Thanks.

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...0Brake%20Rear.

John

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Wow, just looked at the OEM LS1 parking brake assembly. It is very in-expensive, $65. I wonder if we would be better off buying these and modifying them.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

After looking at it a little closer, it is obvious that the C5 e-brake will be easier to adapt than the LS1. Good news is that Wilwood makes a hat for that as well.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Excellent news!

87350IROC

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Ok found some part numbers that would be needed.

GM 12455801 includes the following for both sides: shoes, mounting springs, levers, adjusters, and grommets

GM 12455802 - backing plate, left
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=12455802

GM 12455803 - backing plate, right
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=12455803

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

So that should be just about everything needed on the axle, as far as I can tell. Would obviously need to figure out something for brake cables.

Then its just a matter of designing the bracket. Unfortunately that is really hard to do without the parts in my hand.

TEDS, you got your rotors from coleman with a Wilwood hat. So that is the plan here as well? Lets assume for now, we'll use the Wilwood hat in the Wilwood kit. What Coleman rotor do you want to use?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I think Ed custom ordered: Box says: 13.00 X 1.10 Directional Vane
Website lists that as the max with min down to 11.75 X .900: so I guess the rears could fall anywhere within that range: http://www.colemanracing.com/Brake-R...ane-P3549.aspx
Wilwood hats are alum

What fits best? I was thinking 12.00 X 1.00, but unsure of other considerations back there.

Brian

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

the rear ls1 backing plate and rotor setup would be a good choice. Everything but the caliper is a off the shelf part you cna get anywhere, so they are cheap and easy to fix. Proper parking brake cables are available too.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Here's a guy who did that: http://rides.webshots.com/album/1325...TqPdo?start=24

Might need to run a spacer between the axle flange and caliper/e-brake backing plate - depends on which rotor being used. I think the LS1 backing plate is .4" thick.
Since my rotors are only slotted, cosmetically matching them should not be a prob.
I bet the iron hat is the only one with friction material - that's ok.

I'm still on factory 16X8!

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I think a 12"x1.1" would be great for the rear. The only reason to go larger would be for looks in my opinion. Lets see how everything fits and go from there.

You are planning to retain the OEM rear wheels? Would you consider running front IROC's on the rear? They have a lot more caliper room.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that is what I was thinking originally. However what turned me off is how integrated the backing plate is. I think it would be easier to adapt the large vette 3 bolt e-brake flange to the smaller 9-bolt flange. Whereas with the LS1 plate, you are adapting two four bolt flanges that are almost identical in size. But not close enough to just enlarge some holes. Also, I'm not sure how easy it would be to adapt the LS1 caliper bolt pattern to the Wilwoods. I would have to check.

TEDS, you are running lug mount FSL's in the front right? And want lug mount rear FSL's to match?

Yes, I do like the fact that there are cables ready for the LS swap. Although, I ordered two simple things (master cylinder outlet tubes) from ed probably 4 months ago and haven't heard a peep from him yet. So I'm not sure getting cables from him is realistic.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Yes, want to keep oem wheels. Can put R compound rubber on those for track days, AND I'm still searching for a good resolution to drop spindle-tie rod problem before switching. IMO, 275 is a good street width - I can fit a 255. Watching with great interest at spindle/steering arm mods. As long as oem fits, I'm not forced into a decision. Coleman is only 80 miles from me when my bank acct recovers from body/paint. Someone will find a solution by then.

Radial Mount!

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...e-fitment.html

Also, here's the suspension build. I have some Dean text at the end of the thread that is always worth a re-read.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...g-vetruck.html

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Ok that thread really helps. So in review you are using radial mount 6 piston FSL calipers in the front.

What does your front bracketry look like. Obviously you have the radial bracket, but what does that mate to on the spindle? It kinda looks like the C5/C6 radial bracket that Wilwood supplies. So do you have Ed's C5 brackets on your spindle?

So in other words: Spindle -> Ed's C5 bracket -> Wilwood's radial adapter -> Caliper.

Can you provide the Wilwood part number of your fronts? I can't match them up exactly with anything on their website.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Part # 120-8000-rsr
Label also has, 1.62/1.12,1.25
Yes, Ed's bracket to spindle

TEDSgrad

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Smaller holes are bracket to spindle
Bigger holes are bracket to caliper