Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
04-05-2010, 11:59 PM
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Car: 1989 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: L30 TBI 5.0L Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
So my question is i have a 89 camaro rs with what i believe is 10.5 inch disk in the front and drums in the back. I need more stopping power is i cant get her stopped in a timely fashion from anything higher then 20. So my question is what can i do that isnt too costly? Can i get bigger rotors that are drilled and slots without having to modify the spindle and change the booster and master? What about the calipers? Is there something available like a swap in dual or more piston upgrade? Thanks in advance fellas
04-06-2010, 01:44 AM
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Car: Bright Blue 1989 IROC-Z Coupe
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 2.77
Re: Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
To start without spending too much money, I would recommend ceramic brake pads. On my stock IROC-Z with 4 wheel discs, I had the regular brake pads on and for years I prayed that I would not hit anyone with the brake fade i was experiencing. With the ceramic brake pads, I can actually feel the brakes working to stop the car. I have no worries and now I can stop with confidence.
04-06-2010, 07:03 AM
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Re: Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3143A0A0.aspx
You best bet, one that would be cost effective, may be to simply 'renew' your current system with new rotors, pads, lines, and fluid.
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; 04-06-2010 at 07:07 AM.
04-06-2010, 09:34 PM
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Car: 1989 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: L30 TBI 5.0L Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
All the big brake upgrades that I'm aware of required spindle and/or hub modification. Check the following link for calipers, though the cost may be prohibitive:
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3143A0A0.aspx
You best bet, one that would be cost effective, may be to simply 'renew' your current system with new rotors, pads, lines, and fluid.
JamesC
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3143A0A0.aspx
You best bet, one that would be cost effective, may be to simply 'renew' your current system with new rotors, pads, lines, and fluid.
JamesC
04-07-2010, 06:18 AM
#5
Re: Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
i couldnt get something a little bigger then the 10.5 inch rotor and swap it out? As i look through napa i see a rotor available for camaros with the performance package its a 11.5 i think. could i just swap the 10 for that? and keep the stock calipers and everything else? Also if i stay with the 10.5 will drilled and slotted rotors make any difference in stopping?
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; 04-07-2010 at 07:39 AM.
04-07-2010, 11:58 AM
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Car: 1989 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: L30 TBI 5.0L Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
Without modification there's no swapping in larger rotors or the calipers for them; for example, the performance package is for the 1LE set-up (11+ inch rotors and dual piston alum calipers, which, as I mentioned would required spindle modification). Personally, on a street-driven vehicle, the drilled/slotted rotors seem more ornament than anything else. Other members will no doubt disagree, so perhaps a search is in order.
JamesC
JamesC
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04-07-2010, 03:12 PM
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Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Re: Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
I'm going to have to agree with James. For now getting new ceramic pads, rotors (plain or slotted), lines (Steel Braided) and fluid (DOT4) is your best option for the easiest gratification.
Anything after that I'd say go here and e-mail about what you want.
ebmiller's site (His names Ed though) www.flynbye.com but these kits can get expensive and require modifications, but are well worth the money.
As far as drilled and slotted, if you really want to get yourself some nice slotted rotors, drilled are cosmetic and slotted keeps the same surface area but allows gases to expel from the rotor better than a plain flat rotor.
Anything after that I'd say go here and e-mail about what you want.
ebmiller's site (His names Ed though) www.flynbye.com but these kits can get expensive and require modifications, but are well worth the money.
As far as drilled and slotted, if you really want to get yourself some nice slotted rotors, drilled are cosmetic and slotted keeps the same surface area but allows gases to expel from the rotor better than a plain flat rotor.
04-07-2010, 11:41 PM
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Car: 1989 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: L30 TBI 5.0L Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
I'm going to have to agree with James. For now getting new ceramic pads, rotors (plain or slotted), lines (Steel Braided) and fluid (DOT4) is your best option for the easiest gratification.
Anything after that I'd say go here and e-mail about what you want.
ebmiller's site (His names Ed though) www.flynbye.com but these kits can get expensive and require modifications, but are well worth the money.
As far as drilled and slotted, if you really want to get yourself some nice slotted rotors, drilled are cosmetic and slotted keeps the same surface area but allows gases to expel from the rotor better than a plain flat rotor.
Anything after that I'd say go here and e-mail about what you want.
ebmiller's site (His names Ed though) www.flynbye.com but these kits can get expensive and require modifications, but are well worth the money.
As far as drilled and slotted, if you really want to get yourself some nice slotted rotors, drilled are cosmetic and slotted keeps the same surface area but allows gases to expel from the rotor better than a plain flat rotor.
04-08-2010, 09:45 AM
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Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Re: Brake Upgrade Question Already searched
I'd actually recommend blanks, or flat faced rotors, which provide the most surface area for the pads, but slotted will slightly help in keeping the rotors and pads cool. Just don't hit the brakes and keep them there during hard brakes (I believe Hawks below lists this as dragging the brakes), take your foot off for a split second and that's good enough to cool the rotors down. I know too many people who do 70-0 without ever letting up, and then they wonder why their rotors are warped and their steering feels weird because of it.
As far as brake pads go. Hawks HPS pads are probably 90% of what everyone uses. The Duralast golds are very nice as well, but I don't know many who use it so can't say much about them, but they do look sufficient.
Be sure to bed them in correctly as well, or else pads lose their performance.
Bed-In/Burnishing Instructions
What is Brake Drag:
As far as brake pads go. Hawks HPS pads are probably 90% of what everyone uses. The Duralast golds are very nice as well, but I don't know many who use it so can't say much about them, but they do look sufficient.
Be sure to bed them in correctly as well, or else pads lose their performance.
Bed-In/Burnishing Instructions
What is Brake Drag:
Originally Posted by http://faq.dakota-truck.net/Chassis/braketest.html
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release. Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down process. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way through. It can also distort and score rotors and drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake components will be extremely hot. In severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake cables.
Loose/worn wheel bearing.
Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted slide surfaces.
Loose caliper mounting.
Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged support plates.
Mis-assembled components.
Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked master cylinder return port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release. Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down process. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way through. It can also distort and score rotors and drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake components will be extremely hot. In severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake cables.
Loose/worn wheel bearing.
Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted slide surfaces.
Loose caliper mounting.
Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged support plates.
Mis-assembled components.
Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked master cylinder return port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
Last edited by I H8 WWD; 04-08-2010 at 09:51 AM.
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