What caused brakes to bind?
#1
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Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI
Transmission: Beat to heck 700R4
What caused brakes to bind?
Put on a new rotor/Bendix pads, changed out inner/outer bearings/seal/packed bearings, etc.
Everything seemed OK when I put everything back together. Both wheels were turning well enough (it seemed), just the tiniest bit of friction from the new pads.
However when I took it around the block for a test it was OK at first, but when I got going about 35 I noticed drag and smelled hot brakes. I took her home and it was smoking like mad from the heat/burning grease on the caliper pins. Seems the left wheel was bound up for some reason.
All I did to fix it was take it all apart, let it cool down, put it all back together the same way.
Only thing I can think of is when I was going to bleed that left brake I took off the brakeline first, I didn't remember where the bleeder was and took the wrong nut loose. I didn't even take it all the way down, just until I got a brake fluid covered hand and I quickly put the nut back on. Bled them properly and everything.
It just did perfectly fine on a 10 mile drive.
Any ideas? Caliper going bad?
Everything seemed OK when I put everything back together. Both wheels were turning well enough (it seemed), just the tiniest bit of friction from the new pads.
However when I took it around the block for a test it was OK at first, but when I got going about 35 I noticed drag and smelled hot brakes. I took her home and it was smoking like mad from the heat/burning grease on the caliper pins. Seems the left wheel was bound up for some reason.
All I did to fix it was take it all apart, let it cool down, put it all back together the same way.
Only thing I can think of is when I was going to bleed that left brake I took off the brakeline first, I didn't remember where the bleeder was and took the wrong nut loose. I didn't even take it all the way down, just until I got a brake fluid covered hand and I quickly put the nut back on. Bled them properly and everything.
It just did perfectly fine on a 10 mile drive.
Any ideas? Caliper going bad?
#2
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Car: 91 RS, 95 Z28
Engine: 305 tbi, 350 lt1
Transmission: 4l60, 4l60e
Axle/Gears: monsterous 2.73s in both
Did u get brake fluid on the rotor or pads when you took off that wrong nut?
The rotor could have heated from the friction, and smoked the fluid.
The rotor could have heated from the friction, and smoked the fluid.
#3
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Car: Yes
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Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Sounds like you need new flex lines.
Those go bad (apart from when they just burst, which is rare) by the fittings rusting on the inside, until the fluid just barely can sqeek through about a molecule at a time; and then when you apply the brakes, a little fluid goes into the caliper, but can't come back out, and the brake stays applied.
Change the rubber lines out. I highly recommend the Russell stainless braided replacements.
Those go bad (apart from when they just burst, which is rare) by the fittings rusting on the inside, until the fluid just barely can sqeek through about a molecule at a time; and then when you apply the brakes, a little fluid goes into the caliper, but can't come back out, and the brake stays applied.
Change the rubber lines out. I highly recommend the Russell stainless braided replacements.
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Car: 91 B4C
Engine: L98
Unfortunately I have to work on brakes almost every day at work and I agree with the last guy, but sometimes also when you push the caliper pistons in debris can cause the piston to stick and drag. sometimes you can take off a caliper and push the piston in again and it dislodges and works ok. This might help?
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