Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

What's up guys. I'm in the process of putting the rear hatch back together. Have all the proper adhesives etc. etc., and am waiting for a few days where the weather will be warm enough to help everything cure properly. Anyhow, I have a question about the little black pieces of plastic in the photo I've attached. Can they go back on BEFORE I place the decklid and metal underside piece? I've watched a great series of videos about this process on Youtube, with a very thorough set of instructions, but the guy puts those pieces on AFTER the glass/decklid and metal panel are all attached, but before the urethane has set up. Seemed a little messy, cumbersome AND he was in a hurry as the curing time is only about 10 minutes. I don't see why they can't be put on FIRST. -but, very possible I'm forgetting a step that would be a big "DUH" moment once I start!!!! LOL

Thanks

battmann

iTrader: (9)

I’m not sure if it’s right or wrong but I put those pieces on first.
I installed my deck lid last fall & placed it slightly in from the back fender edge thinking the hatch shocks would move it back a little but so far it hasn’t moved. Now instead of having the deck lid overhang the rear a little it’s now too far in. I just can’t win!

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

LOL, well it looks good. -or at least better than OVER hang. ...How long did you let it cure before hooking up the shocks? ....and good to hear you put those pieces in first. That makes the most sense.

battmann

iTrader: (9)

It was probably 3-4 weeks before I installed the struts. I would’ve installed them sooner but I was getting them painted a metallic pewter accent color I’m using on my build.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Package says 48 to 72 hours I think, but I too was gonna leave 'em off for a few weeks. ....the video I watched said that after 24 hours it hadn't moved at all, but the bolts weren't torqued fully. I think a few of 'em needed a few more pounds. He reconnected the struts after the stated cure time, which again, was about 2 or 3 days. After a few weeks, he said he had a little movement, but nothing major.

I'm gonna give it a few weeks to cure with no struts, and check bolt torque a few times.

91banditt2

iTrader: (1)

Removing the rear deck is a future project for me, replacing the hinges with the Hawks hinges, replacing the weather stripping, ect....
Could you share this video series?

​​​​​​​I'm assuming there's a kit you purchased?

1989karr

Would you mind sharing what adhesive you are all using?

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Here's the video. The guy's channel is called "Bits of Wisdom". He's a retired automotive engineer. Not your typically youtuber but in watching every part of this series, I was really impressed with the level of documentation. There were a couple small things here and there that I have and will do differently, but nothing blatant. Case in point those little plastic things I was talking about in my first post. You can put 'em on first. He put 'em on after. Seems harder to do it that way. BUT.....regardless, it's a great video.


As for the butyl, foam, urethane adhesive and primer, he lists it in the video and below in the details of what I THINK is video three or four. I used what he used. I don't have access to my part numbers now, but I can post later.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Just make sure the ends of the urethane will end up over the hatch seal so water will drain into the 1/4 panel channel and not the interior

1989karr

thank you! i need to do this eventually!!

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

For the record, a few months in now and still no movement. Struts were off for a few weeks before attaching. At that time I did re-torque the bolts. Outside bolts needed "maybe" another ft pound or so, inner ones were right on.