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a new set of locks and keys were purchased for my 82. and not put in yet.
the hatch switch for some reason wont open and i have no key for the lock in the car.. how can the hatch be opened without a key, it did have a switch on the console and there is a lock in the rear of the car.
The car is open and i tried to go in through the trunk area. what a pain in the butt.
The car is open and i tried to go in through the trunk area. what a pain in the butt.
If you think it's a PITA with a glass hatch, then you should try it in a convertible.
There was another thread on this topic not too long ago, and a couple of other ways were mentioned that apparently worked for some people, but I went through the interior. And like you said, it's not easy to reach back there.
If you have someone who can raise the hatch from the outside after you pop the cable from the inside, then that will make the job much easier. Otherwise, get yourself situated so you can raise your body up to push the hatch up, once you pop the cable; good struts help.
Pull back the passenger side of the rear interior panel until you can get a grip on the cable behind it. It's not easy to peel that panel back, but you can, and it won't hurt the panel. It will curl back once you release it. Then pull the cable (the side of the loop that attaches to the lock) until the hatch pops. The cable is slick, so where gloves that give you some grip. It's that "simple." This is what you'll be reaching for:
At least you own a Camaro, where, once you get the hatch open, the lock cylinder is just clipped into place, whereas a Firebird's lock is riveted and has to be drilled free. Have fun!
Or, if you prefer the locksmith method, I'm pretty sure they make house calls.
So the switch worked before you removed the engine? Could it perhaps be because you have not properly reestablished system power and ground for the switch to work?
And why is it such an important thing to do now? Why not just wait until the engine is back in and running again?
Then pull the cable (the side of the loop that attaches to the lock) until the hatch pops. The cable is slick, so where gloves that give you some grip. It's that "simple."
I've not looked at this closely because I keep spare keys but I am curious... Usually cables are inside a sleeve so when you grab the sleeve you're not actually moving the cable you're just wrestling against the cable mounts. Wouldn't he actually need to find the cable wire to pull the latch?
I get what you're saying, and it makes sense, but this does work. One end of the cable is at the motor and is fixed, while the other end is attached to the pivoting lock. And all you can actually reach is the looped end of the cable anyway, not way up inside there at the lock. So when you're tugging that loop, the end that can move, will, because the other end can't. The cable being so short probably also plays a role in this working like it does.
The most difficult part was keeping a grip on the cable. It's very tight and uncomfortable in there. And as body temperature rises, sweat happens, which is why I suggested gloves that grip, which I didn't have. And the vocabulary, well, that tends to assist with the rising body temperature. It's a vicious circle!
A former 3rdgen dismantler/vendor in SoCal said this is how to do it, and it worked.
I think the 82 models are different and use an actual physical solid rod connection between the lock and release..you could pop the light if you have one and play around n there.. I know its possible on the newer units pictured above.
The original keys for the door lock work the hatch as long as the previous owner did not change the locks. The previous owner I bought from only had an ignition key so I made a door key and was lucky it fit the hatch. If the locks are original the door lock could be pulled and taken to a locksmith who could make a key. Of course on a car this old it would be a gamble.
If the electric release on the dash was working you can apply +12vdc from your battery using a fused wire to the hatch release solenoid. Attachment photo shows a spare release motor with release solenoid. The plastic cover in back of the car will have to be removed to get the hatch solenoid. Since the motor is installed you should have -12vdc as long as the negative battery connection is in place. There should be wire connected to the black female connector that has +12vdc label
01-01-2022, 12:29 AM
