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I finally decided to junk the old rubber spoiler on my 88 GTA, because after owning it for 11 years, it's definitely time for some body work.
I've seen other guys do this swap, and I'm hoping that some of you will chime in here. I know that the inner supports need to have material added to them, but I also notice that the outer ones don't conform very well to the deck lid. I'm wondering if it is better to grind/sand them to fit, or add material? I'm also wondering if anyone has reshaped the tapered ends to more of a point?
outer edges are pretty close inside of outer supports has a big gap gap on other side should I taper these to more of a point?
After a VERY preliminary glance at this, I'm thinking about setting it back a bit more on the hatch. I know - the overhang ! Just at the 'first look' stage myself, so I'm curious as to what you do here.
After looking at what TEDSgrad did, and one or two other guys' mods, I thought about grinding/shaving the outer mounts in order to make them fit the deck lid.
After careful examination, I realized that doing so would take most of the material away from the stud mounting areas. So I decided to grind the outer edges down flush with the mounting holes. The plan is to follow TED from here on, and use neoprene stock to make mounting gaskets that will also make the mounts flush with the deck lid.
After lots of measuring, adjusting, and fidgeting, I marked the deck lid with a Sharpie to locate the spoiler during trial and error fitment.
Then I ground the outer edges of the outer mounts to get them closer to the contour of the deck lid. I stopped when I got it flush with the stud mounting hole.
I also had the concern of drilling the mounting holes in the deck lid, which I had feared were very close to the hatch glass. They are, but there is just enough room for them. I drilled a small pilot hole very gingerly, and it was a little off. I corrected, and after drilling the hole out to a good size, it encompassed the original hole. I can use the original mounting studs, but the captive washers on the nuts don't clear the glass. I will either use different nuts, or maybe just insert screws into the mounting holes from the bottom instead.
The new mounting hole is JUST far enough away from the glass.
I also didn't like where the third brake light pigtail came out. After examining the harness for the original light, I saw that the connectors match perfectly. By rerouting the pigtail through one of the inner mounts, I can just plug it right in without cutting and splicing. I pulled the pigtail out, then enlarged the hole in the inner mount. I fished a wire through to the brake light opening, and using a sailor's knot, I was able to tie it to the pigtail and pull it through the new opening. It will now plug right in when the spoiler is mounted.
The pigtail for the third brake light is not in a good spot.
I enlarged an existing hole in the left inner mount.
I pulled the pigtail through the new hole. It will now plug right in when the spoiler is installed.
Looks good.
I used acorn nuts so nothing was sharp and cut the bolts down so they did not protrude very much.
For the harness, I used rubber grommets on both surfaces (deck & wing) to keep water out. You might not need that as long as your gaskets seal tightly.
For the harness, I used rubber grommets on both surfaces (deck & wing) to keep water out. You might not need that as long as your gaskets seal tightly.
My problem with the harness was that it came out of the spoiler over the hatch glass and I didn't want to route it that way.
Looks good.
I used acorn nuts so nothing was sharp and cut the bolts down so they did not protrude very much.
For the harness, I used rubber grommets on both surfaces (deck & wing) to keep water out. You might not need that as long as your gaskets seal tightly.
I figure I should order my neoprene now, so that I have it when I am ready for it. My question is, which "durometer" grade should I be using? I know that you (TED) sanded it to fit the contour... which durometer did you use? I would imagine that a softer grade might not sand so well. But I want it soft enough to seal well against the decklid.
Not sure about that. I ordered 'sample' pieces - thinner for the gasket pieces, and thinker for the gap that is evident in pics 2 & 3 in your original post. Yes, I sanded the thicker piece to fit that gap.
Maybe these pics will help you see that angle - and where I did the harness. Once painted, the painter sprayed the black neoprene, too - the side surface not the contact surface. It is still un-cracked and is barely
noticeable to the eye being on the inside. Usually, I have to point it out to people.
I did a lot of fitment - a lot. I wanted neoprene between all wing to deck lid surfaces (no paint to paint contact). So there is air gap beyond the deck lid but is necessary and you have to watch and compensate as you add the neoprene gaskets as it alters the position of the wing tips. You want it close to the car, but never have vibration against it.
If you can zoom in on this a little, you'll be able to see the non-contact part of the gasket is painted red.
Yeah, I had wondered about that. I think I need to do that as well, given that my car is white.
I ordered my neoprene, and went "middle of the road" on softness/hardness. 60 is what I chose. I'll report back as to its ability to be sanded to shape.
I got my 1/2" neoprene yesterday, and I think it should sand OK. Today, I got the shipment of the 1/8" neoprene... which had obviously been opened in transit. The postmaster sent it to me in a sealed envelope... empty, of course. So somebody committed a federal crime to steal 5 dollars' worth of neoprene. Pisses me off.
It turns out that my 1/8" neoprene showed up in the mailbox the next day, so it's all good.
I apologize for the pictures. They should have been rotated for easier viewing.
For some reason, even though I rotated these for easy viewing, they uploaded as originally saved by my phone. Sorry. The 1/2" neoprene for the outer struts has been cut roughly to shape
After tracing the outlines of the inner struts, it occurred to me that some leftover composite decking (which is rated as structural) would be ideal for the "filler" material.
Using my template, I cut out the composite deck material for the inner struts. It will have to be cut down (thickness).
The filler block set in place.
Next step is to glue the neoprene in place and do some final sanding of it. I plan to follow TED's lead and use 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
Then I will do the trial and error as I sand the neoprene to match the contour of the deck lid. One thing is for sure: As TED points out, there will be a LOT of trial and error. More to come.
OK it's been a while, since I've had way too many distractions. As TED pointed out, there is a LOT of trial and error involved in getting it to fit to the deck. I have mine about as close as it needs to be. I will probably use a little RTV around the edges during the final install to keep any water from finding its way into the mounting holes.
After a lot of cutting, shaping, and sanding, I'm about there. I glued the extensions to the spoiler with Gorilla Glue, and used PK screws and washers to temporarily clamp it. Those same screws will mount it to the deck during final assembly
After the Gorilla glue is cured, I will then mold the extensions into the spoiler using fiberglass cloth and resin for strength, followed by a thin coat of body filler to blend it all smoothly.
The Gorilla Glue worked perfectly. In addition to keeping the additional material in place, it will provide strength for the overall unit.
Today I located and drilled the holes for the inner mounts and the brake light harness. I was able to mount the spoiler using PK screws, and it all looks good.
Spoiler test mounted and brake light working. Now to finish the extensions and then I'll close up the holes from the old spoiler
Next time I get out there I should be able to do the fiberglass work.
Looking good.
Try to find some clear sealant to seal the red brake light lens (don't want it permanent). It just screws into place and is not water tight.
It's not necessary, but after two times washing the car, I got tired of drips from the lens running down the just dried surfaces (like drips from side mirrors running down the doors after drying). Minor thing, but irritating to someone who likes to take care of his paint.
03-29-2020, 12:56 PM
