Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
#1
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Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: MD8
Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
What do you guys use? The factory door vapor barrier was on nice and tight, but with careful pulling, the vapor barrier came off unharmed. Looking for this type of glue/sealant. The factory glue was clear and didn't harm the paint. I'd guess rubber cement, except it was stronger than that. I think.....
Any recommendations?
I'm also wondering why these auto manufacturers don't put something on the door panel cardboard itself to protect them. like a thin water proof coating. I think even the expensive European imports don't even do this.
Any recommendations?
I'm also wondering why these auto manufacturers don't put something on the door panel cardboard itself to protect them. like a thin water proof coating. I think even the expensive European imports don't even do this.
#2
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Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
I used 3M Strip Caulk on mine. Not sure if GM used them on third gens, but they definitely used them on later cars and trucks. Great for all sorts of other things too.
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Car: 1984 Z28 H.O.
Engine: L69 305 Cubic Inch
Transmission: T5 5-Speed Manual
Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
When I first purchased my '84 Z28, the rubber rain guards for the window glass were dry rotted and needed replaced. When I took the doors apart, that plastic film in there was held on with some kinds of glue that had long since dried up, and the plastic was dry and brittle. I managed to removed it on one door without it tearing or breaking. I bought a roll of painters plastic from the hardware store, thicker than what was in there. I laid two sheets on top of each other, then the door plastic that wasn't torn or broken on top of those to use as a template, Using a box cutter, I cut out two new sheets to fit the insides of my doors. Rather than mess with some type of glue, like others here mentioned, I purchased a roll of 3M double sided stick tape. I cut out strips of that and used it to affix the new plastic to the doors. It worked great. That's what I would recommend to others.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
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Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
I used 3M Strip Caulk on mine. Not sure if GM used them on third gens, but they definitely used them on later cars and trucks. Great for all sorts of other things too.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Blac.../dp/B000PEZ1L4
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Blac.../dp/B000PEZ1L4
Correct. You want the next guy to be able to remove the water shield.
#7
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Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
I went back and looked at a photo I have of my inside door panel. The vapor barrier was NOT attached with the 3M rope caulk. I thought it was. That was my 2006 Silverado that had the 3M stuff. My Camaro was clear, so I think any clear double sided tape would suffice.
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#8
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Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
FWIW, I still have both left and right door vapor barriers that I special ordered from the dealership. They've been rolled up in a cabinet for +30 years. I can't even recall why I bought them. The barriers come stuck onto door-sized paper sheets and have some kind of peel-and-stick adhesive on them.
Strip caulk works; I'm forever having to get into the door and interior panels of my old Acura (old broken regulators and motors) where I've tried different tapes but either the moisture effects the adhesive or the adhesive dries out (like weathered duct tape). Metal backed exhaust vent tape seem to hold up better but only marginally.
Strip caulk works; I'm forever having to get into the door and interior panels of my old Acura (old broken regulators and motors) where I've tried different tapes but either the moisture effects the adhesive or the adhesive dries out (like weathered duct tape). Metal backed exhaust vent tape seem to hold up better but only marginally.
Last edited by paulo57509; 08-11-2020 at 04:09 AM.
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TTOP350 (08-11-2020)
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Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
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Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
FWIW, I still have both left and right door vapor barriers that I special ordered from the dealership. They've been rolled up in a cabinet for +30 years. I can't even recall why I bought them. The barriers come stuck onto door-sized paper sheets and have some kind of peel-and-stick adhesive on them.
Strip caulk works; I'm forever having to get into the door and interior panels of my old Acura (old broken regulators and motors) where I've tried different tapes but either the moisture effects the adhesive or the adhesive dries out (like weathered duct tape). Metal backed exhaust vent tape seem to hold up better but only marginally.
Strip caulk works; I'm forever having to get into the door and interior panels of my old Acura (old broken regulators and motors) where I've tried different tapes but either the moisture effects the adhesive or the adhesive dries out (like weathered duct tape). Metal backed exhaust vent tape seem to hold up better but only marginally.
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427seven (08-11-2020)
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Car: 1989 Firebird GTA
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Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
i be right in line behind ttop if he drops out, love to have those.....
#12
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Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
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Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
yes, that is what it is more or less. pre-shaped, and pre-cut holes. it would be a lot of tedious work to do it like factory, but it could be done.
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Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
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Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
just took a look at the Hawks product, looks like they have the holes precut. if i recall, what you would do with the hawks, is not remove the cut, but just slide the door handle, ect thru and let the barrier that is precut stay, rather than remove it entirely.
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Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
I can get a roll of plastic at HD for so much less and save money. Hawks is great, but they have enough money from me for now HAHA. I will post my progress on using rolled plastic, thank you sir!
Last edited by Hawkeye1980; 08-25-2020 at 12:02 PM.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: AT
Re: Door vapor barrier glue - what is close to factory?
I have made mine over the years. Time consuming, but no big deal, if you have the old one, as a pattern. More work, if you don't have a pattern.
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