My 1989 Formula 350 restore
#51
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Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
As the other person said, the plastic (yours are broken) pushes into the metal the turn signal housing tabs are screwed down into them. That's how it was done at the factory.
Last edited by TTOP350; 08-13-2019 at 06:46 AM.
#53
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
So as you can see I got some great advise on POR15 and I used it!
SO the rust is on the front and bottom of the door. I DA and hand sanded it to get it down to metal and clear out any loose rust. I picked up the POR15 kit, cleaned it, prepped it, and...
painted the bottom and...
Front of the door.
Very easy to use just follow the directions. Tomorrow I will put some fiberglass down then bondo it. The whole door will get sanded to metal, new door lock actuators and power window motors. I am really enjoying this!
SO the rust is on the front and bottom of the door. I DA and hand sanded it to get it down to metal and clear out any loose rust. I picked up the POR15 kit, cleaned it, prepped it, and...
painted the bottom and...
Front of the door.
Very easy to use just follow the directions. Tomorrow I will put some fiberglass down then bondo it. The whole door will get sanded to metal, new door lock actuators and power window motors. I am really enjoying this!
#54
Member
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Nice! I've used other rust converters and have been extremely disappointed with them, but I'm sold on this stuff. I used POR15 on the small rust hole under my spare tire 6 years ago. It froze it and it looks the same today as the day I applied it. There is a procedure for using filler over the POR15, I've done it but I don't know how offhand.
#55
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Nice! I've used other rust converters and have been extremely disappointed with them, but I'm sold on this stuff. I used POR15 on the small rust hole under my spare tire 6 years ago. It froze it and it looks the same today as the day I applied it. There is a procedure for using filler over the POR15, I've done it but I don't know how offhand.
#58
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
So making slow progress on the car, the weather in NY has been crappy to say the least, for painting anyway. Hoping to paint as many parts top coat this coming weekend, weather is SUPPOSED to be cooler and sunny.
So there are some door plugs
Yup, gonna need them!
sanded down the rust, applied POR15 and then bondo. Happy with the results
The underside.
All in all the door is in pretty goo shape, look closely and you will see 30 years of dings, etc. Bad part is a storm blew in right after this pic, no fore warning. I cover it, but now some of the epoxy is peeling down to bare metal. ARRRGGGHHH
Removed the power window motor, up its was the original one, still worked, very slow. Messed up on one of the rivet locations, HAHA
Ground down the rivets to replace the door lock actuator. The bolts are SAE, but too hard to reach. I have the new one ready.
Yup rear views!
So I noticed the original rivet was very loose on this bracket. I ground it down and replaced it, nice and tight now!
Will keep the pics coming as I make progress, I am running out of summer and need to get this done!
Also I thought my door hinges were in good shape. Well I just ordered the pin kit and the bottom kit for 180 bucks from Hawks. These doors are getting a FULL TREATMENT. Just sucks I have to fix the peeling epoxy paint!
So there are some door plugs
Yup, gonna need them!
sanded down the rust, applied POR15 and then bondo. Happy with the results
The underside.
All in all the door is in pretty goo shape, look closely and you will see 30 years of dings, etc. Bad part is a storm blew in right after this pic, no fore warning. I cover it, but now some of the epoxy is peeling down to bare metal. ARRRGGGHHH
Removed the power window motor, up its was the original one, still worked, very slow. Messed up on one of the rivet locations, HAHA
Ground down the rivets to replace the door lock actuator. The bolts are SAE, but too hard to reach. I have the new one ready.
Yup rear views!
So I noticed the original rivet was very loose on this bracket. I ground it down and replaced it, nice and tight now!
Will keep the pics coming as I make progress, I am running out of summer and need to get this done!
Also I thought my door hinges were in good shape. Well I just ordered the pin kit and the bottom kit for 180 bucks from Hawks. These doors are getting a FULL TREATMENT. Just sucks I have to fix the peeling epoxy paint!
Last edited by Hawkeye1980; 08-18-2019 at 11:03 PM.
#59
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Car: 87 Iroc vert, t-top
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
And if I had known, I had clean rust free doors, I could have brought you the beginning of July when I came to NY to visit my family.
Don't have the rubber pieces, I don't think. They mount in the bumper retainer?
Let me get out the retainer bar I have and get pics, and we'll see if we can figure this out.
Last edited by beths91camaro; 08-19-2019 at 07:35 AM.
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Hawkeye1980 (08-19-2019)
#60
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Thanks Beth. My passenger door is in solid shape. the rubber parts shown are on the bottom of each door. they look like drain plugs.
Plus I need those round plastic mounts for the front turn signals. As shown above, mine are all broken. Not sure what they are called.
Plus I need those round plastic mounts for the front turn signals. As shown above, mine are all broken. Not sure what they are called.
#61
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Some more pics!
Look! NO DOORS!!
very helpful tool to support doors on and off
Passenger door now off. Much better shape than my driver door
had to reshoot the first epoxy primer on the bare metal. Just filled in some small dings. Sand, re-prime, high build, sand, seal prime and PAINT!!
Look! NO DOORS!!
very helpful tool to support doors on and off
Passenger door now off. Much better shape than my driver door
had to reshoot the first epoxy primer on the bare metal. Just filled in some small dings. Sand, re-prime, high build, sand, seal prime and PAINT!!
#62
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
OK Finally, some BLACK PAINT!!!
so here is that tent I bought back in May. Just unpacked it this morning and blew it up. Bit of a scare, haha. There are 2 relief zippers that were open, I thought it had a leak. But it works AWESOME!
so here is the deck and some small parts
Fenders. I got some dripping on one of them I will have to sand out. But Happy over all.
AHHH the font BUMPER!! Been 26 years since it was black!
Overall I am very happy. Its a bit bitter sweet too. I love this car and to see it being painted black again brings back many good memories over all, but some sad. Eastwood makes some great products!
so here is that tent I bought back in May. Just unpacked it this morning and blew it up. Bit of a scare, haha. There are 2 relief zippers that were open, I thought it had a leak. But it works AWESOME!
so here is the deck and some small parts
Fenders. I got some dripping on one of them I will have to sand out. But Happy over all.
AHHH the font BUMPER!! Been 26 years since it was black!
Overall I am very happy. Its a bit bitter sweet too. I love this car and to see it being painted black again brings back many good memories over all, but some sad. Eastwood makes some great products!
#65
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Sorry for the delays in updates, been very busy. Summer is done and I go to get this paint job completed! So the only thing left to sand and paint is the rest of the car, rear panels.etc. I started removing the T-Top seals and the rear windshield will come off this weekend. I started wet sanding one of the doors and ordered the ICE buff package from Eastwood. shooting for 2 weeks to get this done but weather, rain, etc. sets me back. Ordered my rims too! See below!
driver door
pass door
hood
hood again
rear bumper
and of course, the spoiler!
This is the T-Top bar, looks like its not paint on this part, almost a peel an stick finish. What would I recover this with?
Rims: JNC026 black, 18 x 8, 4pcs, +35mm.
driver door
pass door
hood
hood again
rear bumper
and of course, the spoiler!
This is the T-Top bar, looks like its not paint on this part, almost a peel an stick finish. What would I recover this with?
Rims: JNC026 black, 18 x 8, 4pcs, +35mm.
#66
Junior Member
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
You are doing nice work. I have 89 Formula that I will restore, already is bare body, almost complete sandblasted and epoxi primed.
#69
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Yeah looks that way. All good. I am wet sanding some of the parts, have some minor sand through, ARRGGH. Fortunately I am using 3 and 1 paint, has the clear in with it. Going to partially re shoot the sand through and wet sand again.
#70
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
ok some more pics!
Passenger door, wet sanded with 1500, then 3000 then cut with 2 pads and then polished. I am so STOKED!!
another pic
MY RIMS CAME IN!
This weekend, going to sand down the whole back end of the car and start the paint process. And do some wet sanding!!!
Passenger door, wet sanded with 1500, then 3000 then cut with 2 pads and then polished. I am so STOKED!!
another pic
MY RIMS CAME IN!
This weekend, going to sand down the whole back end of the car and start the paint process. And do some wet sanding!!!
#73
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
I wish they sold a smaller and cheaper one I could use as an extension of my little shop when I paint mine. I can’t swing $1k on one right now but I definitely have one on my wish list lol.
#74
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
This was a wish list item back about a year ago at 1800 bucks. Dropped quoted a bit and k caught it on sale. Normally 1300 bucks. But they have dropped on price.
#75
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
More work!
Need this part, it covers the bolts for the rear glass window hinge.
seen better days.....
So I got all the t-top seals off and started to clean things up. Not terrible shape for 30 years.
Started cleaning the passenger side.
Nasty!!
Very close to sanding down the rest of the car, hopefully tomorrow. I have to take off the rear glass so I can sand the gutter for it. Then repair the metal around the glass and paint.
Need this part, it covers the bolts for the rear glass window hinge.
seen better days.....
So I got all the t-top seals off and started to clean things up. Not terrible shape for 30 years.
Started cleaning the passenger side.
Nasty!!
Very close to sanding down the rest of the car, hopefully tomorrow. I have to take off the rear glass so I can sand the gutter for it. Then repair the metal around the glass and paint.
#77
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Hawkeye, did you see the alternate method I came up with installing the J hooks for the spoiler?
Just a FYI. (It has held up to road testing so far for a couple hundred miles).
Installing 91/92 Hawks Spoiler On 1987 Formula *installation guide for idiots*
Just a FYI. (It has held up to road testing so far for a couple hundred miles).
Installing 91/92 Hawks Spoiler On 1987 Formula *installation guide for idiots*
#78
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Hawkeye, did you see the alternate method I came up with installing the J hooks for the spoiler?
Just a FYI. (It has held up to road testing so far for a couple hundred miles).
Installing 91/92 Hawks Spoiler On 1987 Formula *installation guide for idiots*
Just a FYI. (It has held up to road testing so far for a couple hundred miles).
Installing 91/92 Hawks Spoiler On 1987 Formula *installation guide for idiots*
#79
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Car: 1986 Camaro Drag Car
Engine: 383 on Ethanol
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Currie 9 inch
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Before buffing, I sand with 1200 grit DRY at first, then 3000 wet, and 5000 grit wet.
Sanding the 1200 dry makes it a lot easier to see what you are doing to eliminate sand through.
You can also put masking tape on your edges when you do it, too
Last edited by dagwood; 09-12-2019 at 07:23 PM.
#83
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
POR15 has a kit with a wash and a metal prep. The metal prep is actually phosphoric acid and you can pay a lot less by buying it at Home Depot for about $18./gal. It's in the painting section. Look for Prep & Etch. Look on youtube for videos on how this stuff works. If you are able to soak the rusty part overnight, it will remove ALL the rust and leave the surface gray and etched - perfect for POR15 adhesion. Remove all the rust you are able to first. POR15 cures by absorbing moisture out of the air, so once you open the can, pour as much as you are going to use in a separate container (I use kitchen Dixie cups) and get that cover back on the can ASAP. Make sure to completely wipe any POR15 from the lip and cover, because even the slightest drop will cause that lid to never come off again. You can't rinse out anything you use to apply POR15 - throw them out. I like using foam brushes. And wear gloves. Once POR15 touches your skin, even if you immediately wipe it off, your skin will be stained for at least a few days. POR15 will leave a glass-like finish, so you need to lightly sand the surface before any filler can be applied.
#85
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Sanded to metal and preparing for epoxy coat
Here is the bar that goes between the t-tops. It was wrapped, not painted. So I removed the wrap and recovered it.
Found a 3m product online and wrapped it. Very pleased with the outcome
So here is some more pics.
#87
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
The HOME stretch.
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thtanner (09-20-2019)
#93
Member
Re: My 1989 Formula 350 restore
Do you have a running tab on how much you spent between all the material, supplies and the paint?