Metal Trim around rear window...
#1
Metal Trim around rear window...
So getting a new rear window and I do not believe that these come with it...
I've seen a lot of new painted 3rd gens, but this metal trim is rusty!
So I want to get one, probably have it powdercoated so it lasts...
Any tips / advice, etc... is appreciated....
I've seen a lot of new painted 3rd gens, but this metal trim is rusty!
So I want to get one, probably have it powdercoated so it lasts...
Any tips / advice, etc... is appreciated....
#2
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Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
Mine was all rusty too, so several years ago I sanded it, taped it off and painted it with some kind of black paint. NO idea what I used honestly, but it's held up ok. I used black, and it looks TOO black. At the very least go flat black. I think a dark grey would be ideal. .....I'd thought about doing it again and POR 15ing it. Then just overcoating it with rustoleum or something. I dunno, no expert advice here really, just an account of what I did.
#3
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
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Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
the most accurate paint I've found for that (and the headlight buckets) in aerosol is SEM Trim Black.
#4
Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
Yeah, I did the same several years ago with mine. Was checking it out today and I see gray primer in a few spots, I did gloss black paint, car is black...
I just don't want to keep doing this over & over... I have a spare rear window, I think the powdercoat will not need to be redone
I just don't want to keep doing this over & over... I have a spare rear window, I think the powdercoat will not need to be redone
#6
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Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
Does anyone else feel like Powder Coating doesn't really do much more than properly applied paint?
If the paint is coming off the primer, I'd say it wasn't prepped right.
I know the trim can be removed from the glass, but I'm sure I wouldn't want to try removing it and reinstalling it. I'd clean the living be-jesus out of it, tape off the glass fairly close to the edge of the trim, and repaint it. Any good paint, properly applied, and protected (wax) should hold up.
IIRC, the Service Manual describes removing the trim by applying heat (with a torch), and then a complicated process of special adhesives to reinstall. All I know about auto-glass is that it's crazy easy to fudge it up. It skeers me.
If the paint is coming off the primer, I'd say it wasn't prepped right.
I know the trim can be removed from the glass, but I'm sure I wouldn't want to try removing it and reinstalling it. I'd clean the living be-jesus out of it, tape off the glass fairly close to the edge of the trim, and repaint it. Any good paint, properly applied, and protected (wax) should hold up.
IIRC, the Service Manual describes removing the trim by applying heat (with a torch), and then a complicated process of special adhesives to reinstall. All I know about auto-glass is that it's crazy easy to fudge it up. It skeers me.
#7
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Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
I have removed it and reinstalled. It's a press fit and doing it with the hatch off would have been easier than trying to line it up and pull it tight across the top with strap hangers.
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#8
Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
Had my wheels powdercoated in 2005 and they still look like the day I got them back then (13 years later)
I think powder coat is better...
Yeah, I 'll have to look at my options.. I have 2 hatches, the one on my car and 1 I'm storing...
If they powder coat it with the glass on at 400 degrees, that would cure the powdercoat and release the glue !!!
I think powder coat is better...
Yeah, I 'll have to look at my options.. I have 2 hatches, the one on my car and 1 I'm storing...
If they powder coat it with the glass on at 400 degrees, that would cure the powdercoat and release the glue !!!
#9
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Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
Powdercoat is pretty awesome, and I feel that given the right application, -is certainly better than paint. Not sure this is it though. Without proper prep, my painting worked well for a long time. Knowing what i know now, I wouldn't hesitate to prime and paint, or POR15 and paint.
#11
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Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
Another vote for SEM Trim Black. I used that on my my KITT and 89 Firebird, still looks perfect. I'll be doing the same to my 90 Formula in the spring. As for POR 15, use ENGINE paint in black and I guarantee you it will last. The Chevy Orange on my engine block looks the same as the day I painted it in 2011, no cracking, peeling or burn off and it wipes clean with a damp cloth.
#13
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Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
Hi there,
Mine was covered in surfast rust, so I sanded it off, and painted it with a small bottle of Testors flat black model paint, and a small modellers paint brush. I used a steady hand, and a razor blade later to clean off any slip-ups off the glass. It has a few brush-stroke marks here and there, but it looks a hundred times better than the old rust. Very cheap and very easy to do - no masking!
Mine was covered in surfast rust, so I sanded it off, and painted it with a small bottle of Testors flat black model paint, and a small modellers paint brush. I used a steady hand, and a razor blade later to clean off any slip-ups off the glass. It has a few brush-stroke marks here and there, but it looks a hundred times better than the old rust. Very cheap and very easy to do - no masking!
#14
Moderator
Re: Metal Trim around rear window...
The correct finish is identical to black electrical tape. I have mine protected with electrical tape from the bottom up to the curve because I have the louvers and the clips can scratch the trim. Nobody knows the tape is there, so it's a perfect match. Flat black or gloss black wouldn't look right. The SEM trim black or even the Duplicolor trim black is the proper finish.
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