Tie Down Points for securing on hauler
#1
Tie Down Points for securing on hauler
I purchased an 18 foot car hauler recently and was wondering if you guys that haul your cars have found it best to secure the car with straps to the body (loops) or below the suspension (a-frames/rear axle). Securing below the suspension (rear axle/a frames) seems to be the option I'm leaning towards since there is less movement than strapping to frame loops that are subject to movement as the suspension reacts to bumps in the road. Yet when these cars were transported from the factory my guess is they used those frame loops to secure them to the transport. This appears to be one of those topics where there is support for both methods around the web, so I thought I would ask those who are actually transporting the same cars as I will be. I plan to haul short distances under 100 miles as well as longer distances 300+ miles. The trailer has recessed D rings at all four corners. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by GASPEDDLER; 09-12-2016 at 10:27 AM.
#2
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Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
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Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Tie Down Points for securing on hauler
I like to strap to the axle and a arms or those tire nets.
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Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Tie Down Points for securing on hauler
I do the X in front and in the rear just go from one side, over axle then to the other side with 1 strap.
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Car: 1985 Trans Am T-Top
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi 1LE 10 bolt
Re: Tie Down Points for securing on hauler
I don't agree with strapping it down by the axles or anything that isn't the body.
If the straps are not attached to the body, then the body is going to be moving around and its mass working against the suspension. Besides the wear on components, could lead to the car moving out of position or making the trailer less stable.
Also if it's an old car you are hauling, the supension or something could break and maybe even make the car come loose.
I always haul with the straps hooked to the holes in the frame next to the gas tank and the tow tabs on the front frame rails unless they were rusted out.
I cross the rear straps but not the front as you don't want to put too much lateral pressure on those tow tabs and I usually had only about 2 feet of strap at the front anyway.
You can feel the difference in how the trailer handles when the body is controlled, especially on a light aluminum trailer.
If the straps are not attached to the body, then the body is going to be moving around and its mass working against the suspension. Besides the wear on components, could lead to the car moving out of position or making the trailer less stable.
Also if it's an old car you are hauling, the supension or something could break and maybe even make the car come loose.
I always haul with the straps hooked to the holes in the frame next to the gas tank and the tow tabs on the front frame rails unless they were rusted out.
I cross the rear straps but not the front as you don't want to put too much lateral pressure on those tow tabs and I usually had only about 2 feet of strap at the front anyway.
You can feel the difference in how the trailer handles when the body is controlled, especially on a light aluminum trailer.
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#8
Re: Tie Down Points for securing on hauler
I don't agree with strapping it down by the axles or anything that isn't the body.
If the straps are not attached to the body, then the body is going to be moving around and its mass working against the suspension. Besides the wear on components, could lead to the car moving out of position or making the trailer less stable.
Also if it's an old car you are hauling, the supension or something could break and maybe even make the car come loose.
I always haul with the straps hooked to the holes in the frame next to the gas tank and the tow tabs on the front frame rails unless they were rusted out.
I cross the rear straps but not the front as you don't want to put too much lateral pressure on those tow tabs and I usually had only about 2 feet of strap at the front anyway.
You can feel the difference in how the trailer handles when the body is controlled, especially on a light aluminum trailer.
If the straps are not attached to the body, then the body is going to be moving around and its mass working against the suspension. Besides the wear on components, could lead to the car moving out of position or making the trailer less stable.
Also if it's an old car you are hauling, the supension or something could break and maybe even make the car come loose.
I always haul with the straps hooked to the holes in the frame next to the gas tank and the tow tabs on the front frame rails unless they were rusted out.
I cross the rear straps but not the front as you don't want to put too much lateral pressure on those tow tabs and I usually had only about 2 feet of strap at the front anyway.
You can feel the difference in how the trailer handles when the body is controlled, especially on a light aluminum trailer.
You make some good points there, thank you for the input.