firebird firewall
#1
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Car: 1987 trans am, 1988 Formula
Engine: 305 LG4, 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 in both
firebird firewall
Anybody know if they make a replacement firewall panel. Mine is suffering from rust under the ac blower and behind the distributor
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Car: 83 Z28
Engine: LG4
Transmission: T5
Re: firebird firewall
Got pics of how bad it is? You might be able to just patch it in with some sheet metal if it isn't too bad.
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 for now
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: firebird firewall
Pics will help. In my case I had rot in the same places, I just made up patches and welded them in (after cutting out the rot).
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Car: 1985 Trans Am T-Top
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi 1LE 10 bolt
Re: firebird firewall
IMHO, if the firewall is rusty enough that it is beyond patching than the car is done.
That panel is welded and glued to a bunch of other panels. It's basically the backbone of the car. Replacing it properly is more work than pretty much any car is worth. And no, there aren't any repro panels so you are going to have to cut one out first.
If you have just one or two bad spots you can patch it, but if it's rotted all around the cowl seam and the corners at the wheel wells, the car is toast, find another body.
That panel is welded and glued to a bunch of other panels. It's basically the backbone of the car. Replacing it properly is more work than pretty much any car is worth. And no, there aren't any repro panels so you are going to have to cut one out first.
If you have just one or two bad spots you can patch it, but if it's rotted all around the cowl seam and the corners at the wheel wells, the car is toast, find another body.
#6
Re: firebird firewall
IMHO, if the firewall is rusty enough that it is beyond patching than the car is done.
That panel is welded and glued to a bunch of other panels. It's basically the backbone of the car. Replacing it properly is more work than pretty much any car is worth. And no, there aren't any repro panels so you are going to have to cut one out first.
If you have just one or two bad spots you can patch it, but if it's rotted all around the cowl seam and the corners at the wheel wells, the car is toast, find another body.
That panel is welded and glued to a bunch of other panels. It's basically the backbone of the car. Replacing it properly is more work than pretty much any car is worth. And no, there aren't any repro panels so you are going to have to cut one out first.
If you have just one or two bad spots you can patch it, but if it's rotted all around the cowl seam and the corners at the wheel wells, the car is toast, find another body.
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Car: 1987 trans am, 1988 Formula
Engine: 305 LG4, 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Re: firebird firewall
Ill see if i can take some pics of it tonight and put on here. Im trying to get all the rust fixed I didn't have a chance to do before now.
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Car: 82 Z28
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Re: firebird firewall
For reference mine was rotted behind the distributor, below the main electrical and below the heater. I welded in replacement panels that I made myself. You must strip the interior including the dash and ALL under-padding etc.
As an extra step I also pored chassis saver down between the two panels (two layers) via the cowl vent and then resealed it with seam sealer. Now the two panel are really bonded together (from the chassis saver).
Most of this rust IMO is the failure of the seam sealer that then allows water to get between the two panels (layers) via the cowl vent. You have to seal this area afterwards or it will repeat.
As an extra step I also pored chassis saver down between the two panels (two layers) via the cowl vent and then resealed it with seam sealer. Now the two panel are really bonded together (from the chassis saver).
Most of this rust IMO is the failure of the seam sealer that then allows water to get between the two panels (layers) via the cowl vent. You have to seal this area afterwards or it will repeat.
#11
Re: firebird firewall
Looks like it's in the seam so I would cut and fab the two pieces and replicate the factory look. Butt weld the new pieces in. Socket weld where they overlap. Grind the welds and it will look like new when painted.
Try to leave the area with the VIN stamp alone.
If you can find a good cowl at the wrecker, cut the pieces out of it - may be easier than fabbing depending on how your shop is set up.
Try to leave the area with the VIN stamp alone.
If you can find a good cowl at the wrecker, cut the pieces out of it - may be easier than fabbing depending on how your shop is set up.
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