vdoggie

So I needed, or more less wanted to get a new front clip lower/spoiler for my 91 instead of having it repaired.. question is, what is the proper way to paint this thing? It's soooo freaking rubbery/flimsy.. do I need special primer/paint additive in the paint.. should it be primed then put on the car and then painted.. it bends so much it would seem like the paint wouldn't stay on and crack if it's not already on the car.. I'm using PPG paint with 2013 base..

Thank you

TheEndofanEra

After you've washed it well with some dish soap and water and sanded down to the primer you'll want to use some good wax and grease remover then scuff it with a red (or grey I suppose) scotchbrite and then give it a thin coat of epoxy primer. Within three days of spraying that put on your base and clear, but I'd only go for the minimum required coats. To much material build is just as bad a thing here as too little. ...There's a flex additive I added when I painted though I don't remember the part number off hand(also used PPG Concept 2021 clear over Omni base). I'm not sure it actually did anything, but I figured it couldn't really hurt.

Okay, sorry I didn't see you had a new clip. If its not already primed, you'll have to get something to clean the mold release stuff off, or the best paint in the world won't stick. If it is primed, wax&grease remover it, scotch brite until its a nice dull finish, then epoxy -> base -> clear

vdoggie

it's black, not primed, painting car bright red (assume to use grey primer?).. can you verify these steps and suggest?

1. clean the mold release stuff off (what to use and what am I looking for? it looks pretty clean to me)

2. do I scotch brite it first to or prime it and then scotch brite it?

3. wax and grease remove so no oils and dirt etc..

4. epoxy - time to cure before base and clear?

5. base - again, any special time before clear?

6. clear

This should all be done before putting it on the car to get all the edges and crevices? Any other special hints or notes?

Thanks again! Really want to get this right.

TheEndofanEra

If its black, its probably e-coated. So just

1. Wax & Grease remover

2. Scuff with scotch brite until its all a flat black

3. Wax & Grease remover again

4. spray 1 coat of epoxy mixed as a sealer - it should say how to do this in the paint's tech sheets (with the omni epoxy it was an extra 10% reducer), and wait an hour or two for it to completely flash

5. if you think it needs straightening, scuff the bad spots (with scotch brite) and add some flexible filler. I didn't do this, so I don't know what would work best. I think 3M has some special stuff for it.
If you do this I'd do #4 again.

6. Tack-rag it down, just in case

7. Base coat

8. Clear

I'd definitely recommend doing it off the car, I set mine on the end of a junk table, and used some wire to hold the chin spoiler from sagging while I did it. And the cleaner (and less dusty your painting environment the better off you'll be. And make sure you have a good activated carbon mask, not just a paper one, the hardener for the clear is bad stuff

vdoggie

One last question.. is epoxy primer an absolute 100% necessity (I thought it was used for metal? I ask because the guy shooting it has some gallow on primer that cost $350.. If I do need it (what brand etc...), what is the smallest amount I can get? I ask because this is the only thing I would need to use it for.

TheEndofanEra

It isn't required, but epoxy sticks to about everything, is incredibly flexable, and when mixed as a sealer lays on smooth, plus as long as you spray your base within the recoat window, you wont have to do any sanding to it to get your base to stick. I've never heard of gallow primer, but a quart of any PPG epoxy (I used the cheap line, Omni) will work.

And as long as you're using modern paints you should have a couple of days where it stays real flexible for install. Though I'd make sure the headlight bar is in place in the bumper before I painted it. I recall that being difficult to get in even before paint.

vdoggie

sorry the gallow was a typo.. meant to say he spent $350 on a gallon of primer... I will have to note the headlight bar issue.. is it possible that could still be on the car or would it have to come off with the old piece? thanks again for the tips..

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

I'm not so sure black means ecoat on plastic. I think that's just the color of the plastic. If its black on both sides, prob not ecoated. You will need to use a plastic adhesion promoter. Whatever paint line you chose will have a compatible product or you can get the SEM in a spray can. You will need primer to get the color right without having to use 10 layers of color.
Personally, I think you can do without the flexible additive for the clear, but you have to be ultra careful moving the bumper around after spray. No flexing.
You won't need a gallon of primer, but paint costs money, no way around it.

vdoggie

the clip is from hawks third gen... it is black on both sides.. feels smooth and doesn't seem like there is anything coated on it.. like you said, it just the color of the plastic..

if I go the SEM in a spray can, can you suggest a specific product? I'm not sure it's worth buying the adhesion promoter that is compatible with the paint since it's such a small amount.. and I won't be using the flex additive for the clear either..

the primer I was just mentioning that as he had a gallon of some really expensive stuff for all the jobs he does..

so now my question is, since we know it's not ecoated, what are the proper steps assuming I'm going to use the SEM spray can? as long as it's just effective I'm going that route..

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

-sand out any defects or fill any gouges with plastic filler
-Wash thoroughly with degreaser that doesn't leave residue like "super clean" or "marine clean"
-dry thoroughly
-wipe down with wax and grease remover
-wipe down with tack rag
-adhesion promoter
SEM plastic adhesion promoter
-epoxy primer (no sanding necessary)
I use ppg dplf
-color base
-clear
-wet sand and buff as necessary (stay off the corners and edges)

Most clears suggest a flexible additive but usually say its not necessary if the bumper is painted while mounted. I interpret this as the additive is not necessary if you are super careful not to flex the bumper cover while painting and mounting, and especially wet sanding. So far I have not used the flex on any bumpers I have done and no cracking yet, but I am super **** and careful with the parts.

I know it hurts to waste expensive paint, but practice spraying each type of paint and use a test panel to get your gun set up right, ESP with the clear.

vdoggie

sounds good!! I will probably skip the epoxy as it's not an absolute must have... looks like we have the right stuff.. now I'm paranoid as all heck about painting it off and putting it back on... I guess as long as it's within a couple days, should be ok... or at least that's how it sounded to me.. thanks a million guys!!

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

What color are you painting it? You might have trouble with the black showing through your top coat if you don't use a primer. If you have to use too many layers of color you might have a problem with it getting too thick and peeling, ppg recommends only 2 coats of the color.

vdoggie

bright red.. definitely will be using a grey primer plus the SEM plastic adhesion promoter etc..