Possible solution for the 4th gen 'bird door panel gap
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Possible solution for the 4th gen 'bird door panel gap
I'm in the middle of the 4th gen interior swap and have come to the door panels. As some may know (if you are using the firebird door panels), there is about a 1" gap betweent he panel and the window. The Camaro panels may or may not be the same way, not sure. But I'm not ver fond of that gap, so here's my solution: Use the 3rd gen trim pieces, like thus:
Take the trim panel off and remove the factory window sweep (you will be using the 4th gen sweep). The panel is the bottom, the window sweep is above (the one pictures is the 4th gen sweep)
Using the existing "Tabs" on the trim, I will bolt the sweep to the trim, as pictured above.
That's how it rests. The 4th gen sweep is pressed firmly against the window. Looks bone stock. (notice i took off the triangle bracket for the 3rd gen door handle). I got mad at it.
I dremel'd the little tabs that attach to the sweeps off on the backside of the 4th gen door panel. Wear goggles, things fly at your face.
Dummied up, that's how it looks. Pretty good if you ask me. No more little gap. (I'm still going to sand it down so the transition is more smooth. Tomorrow (later today?), I will bolt things down and clean it up. I'll post a fwe final pictures that shows how it looks.
Take the trim panel off and remove the factory window sweep (you will be using the 4th gen sweep). The panel is the bottom, the window sweep is above (the one pictures is the 4th gen sweep)
Using the existing "Tabs" on the trim, I will bolt the sweep to the trim, as pictured above.
That's how it rests. The 4th gen sweep is pressed firmly against the window. Looks bone stock. (notice i took off the triangle bracket for the 3rd gen door handle). I got mad at it.
I dremel'd the little tabs that attach to the sweeps off on the backside of the 4th gen door panel. Wear goggles, things fly at your face.
Dummied up, that's how it looks. Pretty good if you ask me. No more little gap. (I'm still going to sand it down so the transition is more smooth. Tomorrow (later today?), I will bolt things down and clean it up. I'll post a fwe final pictures that shows how it looks.
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Damn dude... I've been staring at those pix for ten minutes now and have no idea what you did. How about a closeup of the top of the door panel up top (the area up top near where it meets the window). I can't understand what you did - probably just need some more caffeine...
Steve
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ok.. my question is did you have to cut the 4th gen panel so that it will shut? that is what i am running into.. where at ? and how do you plan to cover the gap that is cut? i am at the same stage...
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The 3rd gen sill is mounted like it would be from the factory. The door panel (4th gen) rests right over it. Like stated, the tiny tabs on the back of the door panel need to be ground off so it sits flush, or flush as can be, with the factory trim piece.
As for shutting, I am cutting at the weather stripping on the door and plan on grinding down and fiberglassing or somehing, the A-trim piece so it contours the door panel. Right now, it gets about 2" from being fully closed an hits. I may trim the back enda bit, too. Depending on how bad it is. But it doesnt look too bad.
As for shutting, I am cutting at the weather stripping on the door and plan on grinding down and fiberglassing or somehing, the A-trim piece so it contours the door panel. Right now, it gets about 2" from being fully closed an hits. I may trim the back enda bit, too. Depending on how bad it is. But it doesnt look too bad.
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
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I never had a problem when I installed mine with the gap on the inside against the window, even though I heard other had. I have a problem when the door is shut looking through the glass to the inside of the car-I'll use the drivers side for this explanation so you can visualize where I'm at.
The area above the door exterior door handle-that corner of the insdie door panel, i was not able no way no how to get it to seat fully onto the door so I can see the rivet holding the interior window sweep. Or I could say the top rear part of the door panel does not go down all the way. Everythig else seemed alright, just that one top corner is all.
Plus I had to shave a bit out of that area too so the door would shut, I had just painted the car and installed new weather stripping so assumed it was just stiff, but still had to grind a little out of the top rear corner for it to shut right. Same with the front top corners of the panels, had to grind a little out there too.
The area above the door exterior door handle-that corner of the insdie door panel, i was not able no way no how to get it to seat fully onto the door so I can see the rivet holding the interior window sweep. Or I could say the top rear part of the door panel does not go down all the way. Everythig else seemed alright, just that one top corner is all.
Plus I had to shave a bit out of that area too so the door would shut, I had just painted the car and installed new weather stripping so assumed it was just stiff, but still had to grind a little out of the top rear corner for it to shut right. Same with the front top corners of the panels, had to grind a little out there too.
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Originally posted by IHI
The area above the door exterior door handle-that corner of the insdie door panel, i was not able no way no how to get it to seat fully onto the door so I can see the rivet holding the interior window sweep. Or I could say the top rear part of the door panel does not go down all the way. Everythig else seemed alright, just that one top corner is all.
The area above the door exterior door handle-that corner of the insdie door panel, i was not able no way no how to get it to seat fully onto the door so I can see the rivet holding the interior window sweep. Or I could say the top rear part of the door panel does not go down all the way. Everythig else seemed alright, just that one top corner is all.
Plus I had to shave a bit out of that area too so the door would shut, I had just painted the car and installed new weather stripping so assumed it was just stiff, but still had to grind a little out of the top rear corner for it to shut right. Same with the front top corners of the panels, had to grind a little out there too.
I remember reading something about the lower section of the door panel needing to be cut? Yours looks perfect just about.
I have found that this is one of those things that has to be fudged a tad in order for the best looking fit. But thus far, I'm pleased with how it looks. Very streamlined, to me at least.
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
That's a better shot of how it will sit.
Door shuts completely (with A-trim piece off), stupid flash, the door panel is black, too.
That's how much clearance I am left with on the bottom. It matches up nearly perfectly on the vertical edge, except for the little corner that kind of wings back.
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That is sweet.
Does the handle have to be moved? I thought I remembered someone saying you had to move the inside door handle one way and make that work? Please clarify because I would really like to put some 4th gen door panels in my car.
Does the handle have to be moved? I thought I remembered someone saying you had to move the inside door handle one way and make that work? Please clarify because I would really like to put some 4th gen door panels in my car.
#10
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Haven't touched mine. The lock cable needed work.
As you can see though, the handle itself needed trimming.
As you can see though, the handle itself needed trimming.
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Hey guys, I picked up some door panels from the junkyard today. They're from a 94 Camaro though. I'm not sure why there's a problem with a gap at the top for you guys though... I set it up and it sat very flush up against the window with no gaps after cutting down a small fold of plastic under the window sweep.
Some other things I notice though...
The the top rear corner does indeed need to be ground down. But from what I can tell, this doesn't have to be a hack job to make it look good. Mine have carpet in that area, and it seems like you can cut it down to the right angle and then just pull the carpet back over it and it will look great.
These doors have a different mounting system. Thirdgens have the cardboard backing with the plastic clips that pop into the door itself. These fourthgen panels have L shaped plastic hooks on them that you just slide onto the door. I just cut off the hooks to solve this problem. I think I'm going to make a template out of 1/4" MDF that sticks to the back of the door panel that will make it hold onto the door just like the old panels did.
And finally, the only *major* problem I see with these doors is the map pocket at the bottom. It seems to recess into the door about 3/4". This makes it stick this far on the bottom. I'm not sure what I need to do about this. Modifying the door panel to remove the pocket would probably be the easiest, but I'm not sure how good this will look. My other option is to modify the door itself to accept this recess. Unfortunately though, one of the bolts for adjusting the window is very close to the area I'd need to modify.
Anyways, I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
Some other things I notice though...
The the top rear corner does indeed need to be ground down. But from what I can tell, this doesn't have to be a hack job to make it look good. Mine have carpet in that area, and it seems like you can cut it down to the right angle and then just pull the carpet back over it and it will look great.
These doors have a different mounting system. Thirdgens have the cardboard backing with the plastic clips that pop into the door itself. These fourthgen panels have L shaped plastic hooks on them that you just slide onto the door. I just cut off the hooks to solve this problem. I think I'm going to make a template out of 1/4" MDF that sticks to the back of the door panel that will make it hold onto the door just like the old panels did.
And finally, the only *major* problem I see with these doors is the map pocket at the bottom. It seems to recess into the door about 3/4". This makes it stick this far on the bottom. I'm not sure what I need to do about this. Modifying the door panel to remove the pocket would probably be the easiest, but I'm not sure how good this will look. My other option is to modify the door itself to accept this recess. Unfortunately though, one of the bolts for adjusting the window is very close to the area I'd need to modify.
Anyways, I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
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