87 GTA - finally resurrected.
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
87 GTA - finally resurrected.
To all those that weren't here back in May - this car was totalled by the other guy's insurance company and I wouldn't let it die. I'll see if I can dig up some old pics of it and the wreck. I purchased the car back and found a good bodyshop that did the work for cheap.
These pics will be huge - so if ya don't like resurrected cars or Trans Ams in general - hit the back button now.
All that's left is some adjustments that need to be made - I'll include some pics of what I mean.
These pics will be huge - so if ya don't like resurrected cars or Trans Ams in general - hit the back button now.
All that's left is some adjustments that need to be made - I'll include some pics of what I mean.
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
here's the finished product as it sits right now. I've got alot of things to do to it before the gathering...but it's come a long way. Sure she's not perfect - but it's my project and I'll be danged if I'll be rushed.
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
well here's my problem. The hood looks like it fits like crap. Honestly - the car's been aligned to factory specs (heck it was rebuilt to factory specs) and there's already been alot of adjustment made to make it fit. But the headlight areas seem the worst. The gaps seem larger in real life - which scares me. Makes me want a stock TA hood - even though I love this one from 10 feet away.
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Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
At the (less obvious) risk of losing the rear alignment to the fenders, I'd scoot the hood foward on the hinges. From the pictures, it appears that the lamp lids are aligned (semi) perfect to the nose/fender line but, the hood is further back then is should be. The gap on the lamp lids appears to be equal to how far the tip portion of the hood is off the turn lamps/tip of the nose (if that makes any sense at all).
Even with the (extreme) minor imperfections of the hood alignment.. definately a superb job on saving your ride... Job well done :hail:
Even with the (extreme) minor imperfections of the hood alignment.. definately a superb job on saving your ride... Job well done :hail:
Last edited by deadbird; 12-14-2003 at 12:03 AM.
#7
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Based on the body lines, the hood needs to be shifted to the right also. It's almost touching the fender on the passenger side. I would also lower the adjustment bump stops for the hood at the front. The gap is too much where the hood meets the front urethane. You could probably also lose some of the gap with the headlight doors by adjusting them back just a little. Moving the hood forward and the doors back should correct the alignment.
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Car: 05' GTO
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: A4
WOW looks great from what it came from. my friend had an 87 gta, the idiot had a few dents in it and he junked the car for $500. you sir get my full respect for bring that car back from the dead and did a perfect job from what it was to what it is.
i was goin to say about the same things as the other guys did about the hood but they said it first, those would be the first things to mess with, are the hinges and the bumpstops, since everything else seems to be in alignment.
i was goin to say about the same things as the other guys did about the hood but they said it first, those would be the first things to mess with, are the hinges and the bumpstops, since everything else seems to be in alignment.
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
just for anybody that searches later: This car spent 10 hours on the frame stretcher. The damage (according to the body guy) seemed to pop right out as soon as he bent one of the two frame forks (I think that's what they're called) back out.
I appreciate all the kind words fellas. I'll be trying to align this sucker tomorrow afternoon - weather permitting. As soon as I have some sun out - I'll show you what the pearl did to the paint
I appreciate all the kind words fellas. I'll be trying to align this sucker tomorrow afternoon - weather permitting. As soon as I have some sun out - I'll show you what the pearl did to the paint
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Car: 1987 Camaro Z28
Engine: 335 TPI Stroker
Transmission: Tremec TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt / 3.42
Man that looks awesome!! I've been waiting to see the finished pics of your GTA, and it came out great :hail:
Do a little more adjusting to the hood and I'm sure you'll find what you want. Either way, fiberglass is fiberglass....it will always fit like crap compared to stock no matter what you do. Same thing with my cowl hood But either way, that car came out looking MINT.
Do a little more adjusting to the hood and I'm sure you'll find what you want. Either way, fiberglass is fiberglass....it will always fit like crap compared to stock no matter what you do. Same thing with my cowl hood But either way, that car came out looking MINT.
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Car: 89 formula 350
Engine: ls1 magnuson tvs2300 supercharger
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.11 Dana 44!
your car might have been all lined up to factory spencs and whatnot, but your arent dealing with a factory hood anymore....just gotta move it around
#14
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Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: Built TH-700 R4 (Vilgilante 2800)
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ PBR's
You get ALL me RESPECT for bringing a car back that other wise would be headed to the bone yard!!!!! Eveyone is telling me to sell my 86 IROC but I am waiting till i get enough money to fix it, and it did not look as bad as yours and yours looks REALLY NICE noW! Could not be happier.
Kevin
Kevin
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Car: Camaro Z281991 Engine: 5.7L/350 TPI Transmission: TH700R4 ··································· Car: Acura CL 1998
Engine: 3.0L/183
Transmission: 4 spd auto/OD
Looks great man..
Hood is aftermarket like mentioned above..
Some hoods are built with imperfections..
So .. dont shoot yourself if you fail..
Id bring it down a bit.. but I dont think that
hood is 100% perfect fit..
Hood is aftermarket like mentioned above..
Some hoods are built with imperfections..
So .. dont shoot yourself if you fail..
Id bring it down a bit.. but I dont think that
hood is 100% perfect fit..
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Car: Base Firebird
Engine: TPI 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: D44
:hail: :hail: :hail:
the accident pics are painful, but seeing the finished result brings tears of joy.... looks awesome, dude
the accident pics are painful, but seeing the finished result brings tears of joy.... looks awesome, dude
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Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/3.27
:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: Terrific looking GTA! I went through a similar experience with getting my 90 Formula fixed after the abrupt meeting with a Honda one morning. Had to replace the nose and all componenets behind it along with the passenger side fender. Fortunately the hood and headlights escaped any damage. Body shop said that if it weren't for the strut tower brace,wonder bar and subframe connectors the front subframe could have possibly been damaged. As it was, the frame showed no damage. His insurance company tried to have it totalled but my insurance company and my body man fought back and got it fixed without totalling.
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: GMPP 350 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Wow :hail:
Congratulations!
That was a ton of work, and it turned out beautifully. Awsome.
Just two questions? Any plans for new GTA badges? Have you thought about making the "RamAir" logo on the hood gold instead of silver?
Congratulations!
That was a ton of work, and it turned out beautifully. Awsome.
Just two questions? Any plans for new GTA badges? Have you thought about making the "RamAir" logo on the hood gold instead of silver?
#23
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
GTA badges will be on the car whenever I get the paint issues sorted out. There's alot to be desired in the paint quality....hopefully some wetsanding and buffing will fix them. We'll see.
But ya - Car Motorsports will soon be seeing my business for the badges.
And actually - I've considered taking the RamAir decal off instead of getting a gold one. If it stays - it'll be silver though. There is such a thing as too much gold. Bling Bling yo!
But ya - Car Motorsports will soon be seeing my business for the badges.
And actually - I've considered taking the RamAir decal off instead of getting a gold one. If it stays - it'll be silver though. There is such a thing as too much gold. Bling Bling yo!
#24
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Car: 92 Trans Am 'Vert
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Looks great! Glad you didnt let it die!
About the alignment... The passenger side headlight has to come foreward about 1/8", and rotated clockwise about 2*. Then youll need to move that hood slightly to the left, and foreward about 1/4".
About the alignment... The passenger side headlight has to come foreward about 1/8", and rotated clockwise about 2*. Then youll need to move that hood slightly to the left, and foreward about 1/4".
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Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
Nice car, looks a zillion percent better than the wreck picture. Probably nickname the car "Phoenix" now... Or is that why they're called Firebirds?
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Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
That car has gone from ooppss to wow...A true 3rd gen lover you are of f-bodys.I applaud you and the TA....:lala:
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Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: 5.7 LS1
Transmission: T56
That looks great hope the alignment works out for you. This is how I go about ligning up panles.
it Is hard to get the headlight doors lined up real good with out taking the front bumper off. Otherwise its adjust close the hood open adjust, which I don't know about you but my had dosn't fit in there to the bolts with all the airdam and bumper on there.
With the front bumper cover off, or atleast all the plastic under the front off loosen the headlights and position so the front of the door lines up with the front of the fender (assuming the gap at your doors/fender is good). Check both front to rear and height etc. Bolt down two bottom bolts open hood and tighten top bolts.
For the hood loosen the bolts enough where you can move the hood, body side that is. but still be able to close the hood Go and get some lipstick or grease paint and rub it around the hindge or on the hindge. Remove the latch mech from the front(mark its position). lower the hood with a friend pressing the hood like it is closed reposition the hood so it lines up with the fenders. Carefully open the hood keeping it as close to where you had it use the markings in the lipstick to line up the hindge and bolt it down. Check alignment, and try again I never get it right the first time.
Once that is good, put the latch back on, if it is lined up good leave it, if not shut the hood with it loose press down on the hood and get it where u want and tighten it up. Rember the fiberglass will flex so if the hatch isn't right the good will shift side to side some, but mostly height adjustments are needed.
Re check the headlight doors.
Stand back check the seems repeat as needed, its a forward and backward process. Your fenders may need adjustment if you cant get it alligned like this.
Once its good bolt the front bumper cover back on and align it with the fenders.
If you cant get it aligned the hood may need some reshaping which unfortantlly is most of the time with fiberglass. that hood is symetric so measure corner to corner should be equal and tell you if the hood is square, like you do when you are putting a window in a house.
it Is hard to get the headlight doors lined up real good with out taking the front bumper off. Otherwise its adjust close the hood open adjust, which I don't know about you but my had dosn't fit in there to the bolts with all the airdam and bumper on there.
With the front bumper cover off, or atleast all the plastic under the front off loosen the headlights and position so the front of the door lines up with the front of the fender (assuming the gap at your doors/fender is good). Check both front to rear and height etc. Bolt down two bottom bolts open hood and tighten top bolts.
For the hood loosen the bolts enough where you can move the hood, body side that is. but still be able to close the hood Go and get some lipstick or grease paint and rub it around the hindge or on the hindge. Remove the latch mech from the front(mark its position). lower the hood with a friend pressing the hood like it is closed reposition the hood so it lines up with the fenders. Carefully open the hood keeping it as close to where you had it use the markings in the lipstick to line up the hindge and bolt it down. Check alignment, and try again I never get it right the first time.
Once that is good, put the latch back on, if it is lined up good leave it, if not shut the hood with it loose press down on the hood and get it where u want and tighten it up. Rember the fiberglass will flex so if the hatch isn't right the good will shift side to side some, but mostly height adjustments are needed.
Re check the headlight doors.
Stand back check the seems repeat as needed, its a forward and backward process. Your fenders may need adjustment if you cant get it alligned like this.
Once its good bolt the front bumper cover back on and align it with the fenders.
If you cant get it aligned the hood may need some reshaping which unfortantlly is most of the time with fiberglass. that hood is symetric so measure corner to corner should be equal and tell you if the hood is square, like you do when you are putting a window in a house.
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