WTR388

Paint is about 5 weeks old Bc/cc black. I already have swirls/haze.

I'm really particular on how I wash the car. Lots of pre-soak and spraying before it gets touched, I use lots of soapy water, rinsed and dunked before every new panel with a high pile microfiber wash mitt.
For drying, I've been using autoglym aqua wax as per the instructions (spray wax on wet panel, dry with the provided microfiber and then buff off any remaining wax with the dry microfiber they include).
I wash my mitt and towels after every wash.

What am I doing wrong and what can I do to correct it? Would a good polish designed for dark colours do the trick? I really like the autoglym stuff. Something like this: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/au...l#.VXxOXc9Viko

I haven't done any paint correction on the car yet... The trans needs a rebuild so that's where my money is.

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Post some pics.

But in general I'd clay, buff it with Megs 105 and then 205. I've also had good results with applying Black Hole glaze on black cars and buffing in order to fill anything you might have missed with 105/205. Then coat with the seal or wax of your choice.

WTR388

So it looks like I should invest in a good DA polisher? Apparently they are more newb friendly... I know how to use this stuff, I just don't have the experience.

I'm just not great at knowing what pads and compounds/polishes to use... It needs a wet sand, it had a "bargain" paint job.

chazman

iTrader: (4)

A buffer does make it easier. And a DA with a foam pad is pretty safe.

gt4373

What Do You Guys Use On The Front And Rear Plastic Bumper Covers,Since The Plastic Painted Parts Oxidize Faster Than The Painted Metal Parts.

WTR388

I guess I'm going to go get a rotary, so I can wet sand from 1500 to 2000.
Would this be an appropriate follow up:
First cut with: http://en.meguiarscanada.ca/product/386 with their foam cutting pad

Then:http://en.meguiarscanada.ca/product/384
http://en.meguiarscanada.ca/product/416 with a polishing pad

And then:http://en.meguiarscanada.ca/product/384 also with the polishing pad.

After that I can use an orbital or DA with their black polish and then wax it up.
So much work!

WTR388

Oxidation is a result of a reaction to the surrounding environment (acid rain, UV damage, chemicals etc), I'm trying to fix a mechanically induced flaw.

Since I'm a newb I'll be taping up any raised features and avoiding edges so I don't burn through.

If I was just going to be worrying about the haze I would be using Meguiars DA attachment system for power drills (which I will be using for my final polish/sealant and wax)... But I figure I may as well go at it all the way, plus I'm going to have a period coming up shortly where the trans is out of the car for a rebuild so I figure this would be a good time to fix the surface.

ZsTransAm

Fresh paint needs 6 months to fully cure. Putting wax on it will trap the solvents as they evaporate out, causing hazing.

For the swirls, just the polishing pad and compound should take care of most of them. If it doesn't, use the buffing pad and compound first.

WTR388

I'm going to assume sanding/polishing is ok for fairly new paint?

I'm by far not an expert on coatings, but my understanding with urethanes is that once they cure there is no more solvent to evaporate. If it was some type of enamel or laquer I would understand.

ZsTransAm

I'm not sure what our shop's clear is made of but I know its not enamel or urethane. I'm pretty sure PPG and Dupont recommend 6 month before waxing, you could check with your clear's manufacture but I'd be surprised if its much sooner than that. It just takes a long time for any clear to fully cure and until it does, the solvents will still be coming out.

You'll be fine sanding and buffing it anyways, it doesn't need to be fully cured for that. If you just want to get rid of the light swirls from washing you shouldn't need to sand at all.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Absolutely no products with wax.
My painter suggested 3 months with out anything other then a wash and dry, then a Synthetic Polymer Sealer as apposed to wax. It still allows the paint to cure because its breathable.
My car has never see wax of any kind, only Synthetics and the paint is 6 years old.
You might want to try one of these Grit Guards. It keeps small partials on the bottom of the bucket.

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

The grit guard as well as using 2 buckets will help get dirt out of your wash mitts.

Polo Z03

iTrader: (1)

I've had great luck with this stuff from Meguires and a dual action polisher.

Comes in a kit with the two bottles and 2 sets of microfiber pads. I did my 2006 black STS-V daily driver, my 2002 Berger SS and now my 1992 Polo Z03 with amazing results.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I have never wet sanded my paint. First the only one I would trust is the painter and he's gone.
Second, I have been letting my cars paint cure for 9 years now. Its called Synthetic Polymers ONLY.
Also, no clay bar. Only a polish once a year with "Race Glaze".
Its my DD and the paint is still smooth as glass.
I suggest Synthetics all the time but the only ones that seem to take it seriously are the ones that can stand next to my car.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I strongly suggest washing and drying the car a lot with out wax and pray you get it all off.
Dawn dishwashing liquid will take it off but I'm not sure its safe with new paint..

If you decide to use a "synthetic" polish than lightly buff it on and off by hand and it will remove the wax.
Then start the curing proses all over again.



We used PPG "Deltron" Urethane and it is solvent based.
Now a lot of shops here are using "water based" paint because of strict regulations.



Here's the best drying tool I have ever found and they sell them every where.
Just click here and scroll down. = http://www.cleantools.net/products/absorber

Here's the Synthetic Polymer I use.
There calling it wax on the label but its not. It is a polymer. I consider it a "top of the line' product that's protection lasts for months.
And you can also find it locally.= http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/produc...mate-wax-paste