TxTtopZ

Reason I ask, the ground effects, nose and hood on my current project is shot. They will all need to be replaced. This is a G92 5 speed car, which makes me think to keep it "IROC"... But I absolutely cannot deny the modified Sport Coupes look extremely clean! Not only that but I see less of those than any of them.
Jeff Moyers car is really clean... so is this sport coupe at thirdgen fest.

Just kicking around some ideas.

IROCtheThird

iTrader: (15)

IMO if its an original IROC, especially a G92 car I'd keep it the way it is. Dont get me wrong I love Sport Coupes, my first 3rd was an 87. If the 8th mile strip actually gets opened up near me I want to get a Sport Coupe to build for that.

Yeah modded Sport Coupes are less common but the IROC's in general are getting less common, especially decent ones. Where as theres a million Sport Coupes around just waiting to be built or RS's that could be converted.
My

Ron U.S.M.C.

IROC-Z all the way.
The ground effects on a Camaro are beautiful and the nose piece on the IROC-Z is also, especially the ones with bow-tie inserts.
A really nice looking IROC-Z is rare around here. My car really is the only thing representing what a IROC can look like. It would be nice to see at least a few really nice ones around.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

I love the natural racercar looks of a modded sc but I agree, and have done the same with mine, if it's an iroc, keep it sn iroc.

83Z28/L69

Another vote for keeping it an iroc. If you are going to mod the entire drivetrain anyway, sell the Iroc and buy a SC roller.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

Going to have to go with the rest here. Plus, have you considered all the holes you will have to weld and fill for the GFX, replace the front and rear bumper covers?

TxTtopZ

I'm not surprised the way the vote went. I sort of expected it but the reason I ask is to see how hard the blow would "hit" when I had to tell people it's actually a G92, J65, N10 (etc. etc.) IROC with leather.

The problem is the car needs a lot of work. I have a thread going right now about all the undercoating removal and floor stuff...and I just got the T5 out and all the undercoating is finally off. Ready to be shipped off for a 2 stage epoxy. The bumper cover is trash, the bumper cover ground effect is trash. Drivers side ground effect is trash. The drivers side fender is trash, the hood is trash....so if all this is going to be changed anyway, why not make it the way I want?
I know purists will hate the idea, but lets face it... a restored IROC is not going to bring the money its going to take to regain my losses, so why not do what I want? Plus, it's not like it cannot be changed back if I decided. all the hardware and brackets will be in the garage.

I guess if someone wants to trade me, now's the time to do it! lol Ive got $4500 in the car and about 40-50 hours. So far.

Im pretty sure I want to do a super nice LSX 6 speed sport coupe. Clean and nice.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like your mind was made up before you started the thread!

Get the grinder and welder ready when you decide to remove the gfx.

TxTtopZ

lol - yeah, I make my mind up at least twice a week. If my car was a business contract, I would have to have the "everything is subject to change" in very small print at the bottom.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Is this the car in your avatar or another?

83Z28/L69

My answer wasn't from the purist view, mine was from the bust your back view. I'm 100% believer in building what you want, how you want it. I didn't realize you were already working on the car. Might as well finish the car, one way or another now, you won't get 4500.00 for it tore apart. If it was together, sell it, buy a 500.00 SC roller and use the rest of the cash to buy a LSX/T56 drop out.

TxTtopZ

It is..

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

That car looks a lot better than I started out with. I always liked that color. I wouldn't change a thing. But it's not my car.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Looks like a good one. Love the color combo!

If You need a new bumper, just buy the right one.
Fenders are the same, new for under $100.
Gfx parts should be cheap and easy.

Removing the gfx, cutting mounts off rockers, and welding up the holes is a lot of work.

I've always wanted a no gfx model, but I won't take them off the one I have.

TxTtopZ

The bumper and ground effect alone from HAWKS is around $600.00, hood is another $500. Fender is $150. Not that I wouldnt spend the money... Here's another nice one on youtube.

83Z28/L69

That car is sweet! A girl that I went to HS with had a L98 car the same color combo. I've always wanted that color combo.

TxTtopZ

You guys arent helping, lol. Your supposed to say, "yeah Tx, sport coupes are way hot and the body parts are cheaper. Chop that thing!"

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Check local yards and craigslist , you can get the parts much cheaper.

Again to change it, you still need a hood, bumper and fender.

Or sell it and buy a base body.

TxTtopZ

Here's some other shots of the car in my other thread. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ml#post5667878

The transmission is now out and driveshaft tunnel was cleaned last weekend. Interior is out, ready for engine removal and paint soon.

Still deciding between 383/T5 with Modified TPI or getting an LSX and a 6 speed. But thats another debate for another thread.

83Z28/L69

http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/4254657083.html

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/4224869781.html

http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/4222107155.html

I thought I would help you find parts!

Edit for goodie!
http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/4256601909.html

TxTtopZ

Edit. Cell phone issue. lol

TxTtopZ

Thanks! Nice find, will call

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

How much is your time worth, that is if you do the bodywork. I count 26 holes that need welding, filling, and finishing. 4 of them on inside and out on the door ends. Then you have the removal of the GFX brackets under the doors and finishing any damage created in that process. You are in a drier salt free area of the country. Should be plenty of parts to be found without paying Hawks exorbitant prices. Hood looks ok, what's the problem? Rust under the front lip?

TxTtopZ

Im a Certified Technican, but I don't do body work. The hood has a small dent at the lip which cannot be straightened due to the location. It's got the bracing right under it. Im sure you could remove it like a door skin and fix it but Im not sure how much that would be worth it vs buying another hood.
The guy who is doing the body work is light years ahead of anything I can do.

83Z28/L69

If you body guy is good, he can use a Uni spotter stud welder to pull the dent. It shouldn't be hard or take long to fix. You don't even have to worry about the under side.

An idea of how it works.

TxTtopZ

I don't do body filler. I know a small amount of high build primer is ok, but body filler to me is the equivalent of JB Weld. To do it right, you just dont do it. That looks like it would require some to make good. Not to mention there is a brace right behind it. So hammering it out may not work. Were just going to have to wait and see what he says. Car was supposed to be going in this month, but due to the holidays, our last conversation now says sometime in Feb. We'll see.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

LOL if you're under some illusion there will be no filler when your body guy is done, you are in a fantasy world. Brand new cars have some amount of filler from the factory. Filler has it's uses, it's just when it is used improperly that there's a problem.

TxTtopZ

Exactly, I would just like to minimize that as much as possible of course.

83Z28/L69

There is and will be filler in your car. The seam where your rear quarters meet the roof is full of filler, and I would bet, other panels have factory filler in them. You can NOT get around using filler of some sort. You can build a car without plastic filler, but the art of hammer welding and leading panels is just about lost. IF you can find somebody that truly know how to lead, you are looking at 120.00+ an hour. If you think you can buy another hood and it be 100% straight, I have bad news for you, there is a 95% chance it'll need work too. It'll be best just to have your guy fix your current hood and ride with it.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

Someone will jump in and talk about metal shrinking techniques too. But again the experience, skill and extra time will be very expensive.

TxTtopZ

It's better I wait for the estimate from him and go from there. Paint is at least 10k, underbody is 2... This includes sand blasting and a bare metal up paint job. Jambs, interior, engine bay... All of it

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Do as much as you can yourself. Strippping paint and such is not hard but time consuming, thus costly.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

From what I've seen it's usually the other way around where ground effects are added to an SC. I would say to keep this one original if you can, and reversible if possible on things that make sense improving.
It looks like you have a good line on parts now too which is good.