58mark

iTrader: (3)

i did this tonight, thanks for this thread.

I used a dremel with a cutting wheel, and it didn't so much cut the seam as it did liquify it.... made things rather ugly, but I eventually got them apart

there was some seriously ugly stuff growing in there.... chucks of something brown, brownish green slime.. gross

I used 400 grit paper on the outside, then 800, then 1500, then I used compound by hand to shine them up.

I cant say they looked as good as yours, but they look 100% better than they did before

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

when doing the cutting try to get the saw blade cutter shown in my photos.. cuts fast and clean..

glade you did them now? cleand up buffed out they look 100% better

use a power buffer on the front.. light presher finnish with your thumb..wax on wax off thing.. if you think you need to get them more clear.. that plastic cuts easy so go slow with the Buffer.

58mark

iTrader: (3)

I've never seen a saw blade attachment for a dremel, but I'll look for one

Like I said, they're a TON better, but I'm going to pick up another set of them to try again, and Have a backup set on the shelf

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

check my posted photos youll see the cutting wheel.

58mark

iTrader: (3)

I saw it, I've just never seen one at a store... off to go check ebay

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

sears will have them.
home depo
any home shop should have them

MAC_87

iTrader: (3)

The search button works wonders, i was looking for Just this! i hate my moldy turn signal compartments. -.-
thanks to all who contributed to this thread.^.^

58mark

iTrader: (3)

yeah, it does the trick, but I just spent a few bucks and went and got brand new ones to replace the ones that I "fixed" Didnt cost that much money, and they look a ton better

NxtLevl

Same here...I bought a new set of the factory looking ones from 1aAuto and they look really good.

HowardC

I know this thread is super old, but my 2 cents:


100 bucks isn't a "don't cost that much money" part to me. Maybe if it was something fancy, but for a hunk of plastic I'd rather try to fix it first. I was checking the forums to see if anybody had tried forcing them open, so thanks for the info guys!


Also in regards to the seperation process:


Afaik the lenses are supposed to seperate. That's why there are plastic tabs holding it on. I would use either a very low tack glue or some sort of rubberized material to re-attach them, because no matter how good a job you did you'll have to do it again in a few years.

MAC_87

iTrader: (3)

If you use a bad adhesive technique, then in a few years you won't have lenses to clean because they've seperated and fallen off.
I agree that isn't cheap, but why do you want to go cheap on fixin your baby?
At the same time, Thirdgen ranch sells turn signals for $54 a piece.

HowardC

Because money doesn't grow on trees?

If I payed dealer price for all the misc parts that go bad on my, now 20 year old car not only would I be broke, but I would have more money in the car than it's worth.

Regardless, the main reason is because throwing money at this problem won't fix it. So you've bought aftermarket lenses.. great! Too bad they'll grow mold in them and collect gunk just like the old ones in a couple of years and you'll have the same problem. 100 bucks to fix the problem is ok, but 100 bucks to put a band-aid on it isn't.

I didn't say to use bad adhesive, I said to use the kind that you can take off. Many of the products out there essentially weld the plastic together... you do NOT want to do that.

Lmancha96

So has anyone tried this with fog lights? '

Those can get just as dirty and they are much more expensive than the parking lamps.

58mark

iTrader: (3)

yes and no. I had a fog light that had a loose glass, and I cleaned it up before I put it back together. worked great

however, if the glass isn't lose already, I would hate to think what it would take to get it apart, and these things are too expensive to go experimenting on. The glass is a lot more fragile than you would think it would be. I had one fall aprt in my hands one time

CerealWars

Just thought I'd throw in that I tried baking them in the oven to no avail, since I don't have access to a dremel atm and I'm impatient. Though it's worked on numerous previous light assembly projects of mine (and I'd try it again on the next project I have), the damn plastic softens on these before the glue does (if it's even glue). So the oven is a no-go on third-gen turn signals.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Um, I have a question...

WHY DON'T YOU SEAL THE HOUSINGS WHEN YOU DO THIS AND PREVENT THE INNARDS FROM GETTING GUNKED UP AGAIN IN THE FIRST PLACE?

If HEADLIGHTS can be and ARE made sealed, why not the turn signal housings? Seems to me that the HEADLIGHTS would get a little hotter than turn signal housings. Then all you have to do is buff the front again when they get scratched. Or is there basically no point to the GASKETS socket manufacturers AND GM put on the sockets? The reason, as I see it, for the TSB for the condensation is the fact that these were NOT sealed at the factory. Condensation + heat grows mold. And is a dirt magnet.

I rebuilt a headlight on a Plymouth that was LITERALLY half full of water. Pried the lens off, cleaned up the edge from a previous botched repair (this had happened before and both of these times were the ONLY times the car needed a headlight capsule), and sealed it with clear silicone caulk. Had to let the caulk dry for about a couple days with the capsule out (explosive vapors). That headlight was still sealed when the car was sold, 8 YEARS LATER. No condensation formed in the headlight, no mold, no dirt, no nothing.

Oh, and when I redid the one side marker on my Bird, it literally just pried apart with a hobby knife. Same for the gearshift indicator (both auto and manual shift indicator housings). The glue is pretty old. Shouldn't exactly be necessary to take a saw to these things and potentially screw them up. Just make sure to do this when the plastic is warm or it becomes brittle.

91zrokr

iTrader: (1)

Just from another angle, I did this process exactly, and didn't get the same results.
Mine were simply a deep yellow color that sandpaper and blue magic didn't take away. They do look a tad bit better, but they still look old.

I'd do this method again in a heartbeat, but as always, results may vary. The majority of people have had luck with it.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Yes, there are two options , clean the ones you have or buy new.

1A AUTO Clear parking lights
Price as a pair, $86.00 and free shipping. =

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/HeadLights/...PP00008/271776