Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Alright I had good paint to begin with (some swirl marks and scratches though) so I got a random orbital buffer and then I got some turtle wax polishing compound. My plan was polish, seal/glaze, wax and get a mirror finish. Well after over 5 hours of work with the buffer and the tw polishing compound, after the stuff finally came off, the results suck! There is still some scratches left and the paint is hazey, not shiny at all! I think the stuff may have been to agressive. What should I do??? Will the paint look nice and shiny after i seal/glaze and wax?

nick418

First off turtle wax polishin compound sucks! People really get confused on how to detail a car. You should start off with the least aggressive polish/pad combo. Also there just more then just one polish (atleast abrasive polishes) You need to go through 2 or 3 diff stages of polishes then go to sealant/glaze then wax. When you start at a aggressive polish/compound of course your going to get hazing from your finish because they are to aggresive for the paint(this is called micromarring). Now you have to use less aggressive polishes and work your way down (creating finer scratches). Then youll get your "mirror like finish" (of course if you work in the polish correctly and use the right speed and pads) I would recommend go to autogeek.net and look at some of the Pinnacle XMT polishes or Poorboy Superswirl removers/polishes. Like i said always start the least aggresive polish then work your way up (if needed). Compound on good paint is deff a no no. Only for dull oxy paint u should use a compound. ALSO WAX AND GLAZES DONT DO ANYTHING for scratches or swirls. Only make the finish have more depth and wetness.

nick418

Also get some LC pads (i wouldnt recommend any bigger then 6.5 on our cars) And good set of microfiber towels.

Great sites

www.autogeek.net (store and forum)

www.autopia.org (forum)

hope this helps


my process for my black 91 Z28:

Meguiars car wash

Meguairs Clay bar

Pinnacle XMT 3 with orange (cut) pad speed 5/6

Pinnacle XMT 1 with white polishing pad speed 5/6

Poorboys EX gray pad (not cut) speed 4

Natty Blues paste wax (hand) sometimes blue pad

I also highly recommend clay bar! Takes all the containments and dirt off the paint leaving it smooth and clean and easier for detailing..

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

So your saying I need to find some less agressive polish and rebuff the car again? I don't want to order anything online, what should I get that can be obtained from autozone? I have scratch-x, and tw scratch/swirl remover which is what I was gonna use in the first place but I left it somewhere so I just went to walmart and I saw polishing compound and I thought that would work but it didnt, it just sucked major, and I wasted 6 hours of hard work. BE WARNED, TURTLE WAX POLISHING COMPOUND BLOWS!!! There was no paint color on any of my diapers so I think my clear coat is still there hopefully. Did I ruin my paint? Can it be saved? I need some help guys

nick418

Yea you need to go over it with finer polishes. what pads are u using? Pads play a big role... I usually do less then 2x2 area work the polish in for 5 mins (you can tell when the polish will be broken) Meguiars Swirl Remover #9 is aite product but dust like a ****. Most the products local retailiers have arent that great.. I perfer lot of products that autogeek and pakshak has to sell. goodluck

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Nick what do you think of maguiars scratch-x? If I buffed the whole car with scratch-x would that fix the situation? I also have mothers cleaner wax. The buffer im using is a craftsman random orbital buffer.

nick418

I personally never tried Meguiars Scratch X. However, i heard some good results from some that used it on smaller areas and some ppl that feel it didnt do much. You can buy some and try it with polishing pad and if that doesnt work step it up with a pad that bites a lil bit more I feel that afterwards your still going to need a final polish that will finish it up good.. Try it though. I would personally look at other products on the net tho.. You be amazed that all these auto parts stores dont carry many good detailing products (in my own personal experience) If i were you, i would get a scrap hood or fender with lots of blemishes and paint defects and practice buffing on that b4 u use your car (i do that). Then you can figure what speeds/pads/products/movements work best for you. Everyone has their own methods. Most likely you didnt burn your clear coat (unless you used a rotary, orbital polishers are dummy proof and not that powerful to go thru the paint) You just left lots of micromarring and swirls from that aggressive compound that you applied. It ruined the finish, now you need to work it down with various polishes/pad combos. Afterwards you apply glaze/sealant and a good wax to protect the paint and to give it more color/depth

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Well I buffed the car with scratch-x for 4.5hrs, and it started looking better, then I bought some maguiers stage 2 deep crystal polish, after I buffed with that it started looking good, then I topped it off with mothers carnuba wax and boy does it look good now!! I'll post some pics later

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

You absolutly do NOT start with the least aggressive pad. You start with the most aggressive pad that needs to be used and then work to the least aggressive pad. If you start with the least aggressive pad the results will be **** because of the marks that will be left from the aggressive pad. Go to autopia.org and read up on how to buff a car. Oh and Turtle Wax is probably the worst product to use, if you want good results that will last you need to fork out a little for professional products (Optimum Poli-Seal is a great all-in-one product that gives great results). Take a look on autogeek.net to get your hands on some professional products and good prices.

nick418

You should start with the least aggressive combo for your paint. If your black (any paint color) paint doesnt need a full cut yellow pad with 2.5 SSR should you do it? Ah no... You'll have lots of marring and then work harder then (going down to the finer polishes/pads) if you do so. I always start with a LC white polishing pad w/ lil cut on my black (little cutting) Then if some panels need to be more aggressive then i step it up with a orange pad LC. This can go the same with products/polishes.. I sure hell wouldnt want to put XMT 4 or SSR 3 on my paint (i have good paint) just because its the most aggresive polishes that company offers. Your out of your mind. Like i said, you be putting more work into it.

He wouldnt have this problem if he didnt apply compound on his paint. Instead he should of used a milder polish/pad and start from there. Whats the worst thing that will happen? It wont cut, it wouldnt do much then. So he would have to step it up with more abrasive polish or pad. God knows what kind of pads hes using and movements/speeds hes doing.. All these steps play a big role in polishing. And im not talking about gray/blue pads, for most companies those are wax/glaze pads that have no cut at all. Im not telling him to start with those. White pad is the best place to start @. Atleast in my experience.

Also before i step it up with a harsher pad/polish i go over the same area 1 more time. If that doesnt help then i know i need to go more aggressive.

i also agree autogeek is a great place to start off at. Great products and great prices!

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Here's some pics, it took 14 hrs, **** turtle wax: