FINALLY DONE (this time around) LOTS of pics inside!!!
10-22-2004, 09:16 AM
#103
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Thanks 
redraif: Out of the gun, there is typically a good amount of orange peel. I used 3 base coats and 4 clear coats. After sanding and all, I'm guessing around 2 1/2 to 3 clear coats left. I used a medium activator so it would flash in about 15 minutes or so. After all the coats are on, I left it for about 3-5 days to cure to the point where I could sand. Started out w/ 1000-1200 grit, then worked my way to 2000. You'd be surprised how fast 1000 cuts, so take it easy! After that, I used some compound on a foam pad, buffed it out, then did my glazing, and there she is
One note is, that if you don't use the right pressure out of the gun, it will do nothing but marbalize the paint, and it will be TERRIBLE. It should look very "wet" and "uniform" w/ "minimal" amount of peel when it's first applied. During the flashing and curring process, the peel will creep out, but no worries, it can be eliminated (As you can see) :rockon:
Good luck!
redraif: Out of the gun, there is typically a good amount of orange peel. I used 3 base coats and 4 clear coats. After sanding and all, I'm guessing around 2 1/2 to 3 clear coats left. I used a medium activator so it would flash in about 15 minutes or so. After all the coats are on, I left it for about 3-5 days to cure to the point where I could sand. Started out w/ 1000-1200 grit, then worked my way to 2000. You'd be surprised how fast 1000 cuts, so take it easy! After that, I used some compound on a foam pad, buffed it out, then did my glazing, and there she is
One note is, that if you don't use the right pressure out of the gun, it will do nothing but marbalize the paint, and it will be TERRIBLE. It should look very "wet" and "uniform" w/ "minimal" amount of peel when it's first applied. During the flashing and curring process, the peel will creep out, but no worries, it can be eliminated (As you can see) :rockon:
Good luck!
10-22-2004, 11:47 AM
#104
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Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
SweetRide - can you post a link to the thread you mentioned above on your process? I checked all your posts and couldn't find it....
Sure would appreciate it!
Sure would appreciate it!
10-22-2004, 12:24 PM
#105
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This pertains to a fiberglass hood, but the general information applies to the whole body:
Fiberglass, on it's own, is far from being "flat"...It takes lots of prep work (depending on the given quality) BEFORE you paint. If you havn't done body work before, it might take some time to understand.
I'd suggest to sand the gelcoat down w/ some 320...use a long block, and foam block around curves, etc. Then, lay some primer on there, and sand that down...give it a few coats...never be afraid of primer...it's your friend
Sand that down w/ 320 as well...if necessary, shoot it again...
Fill in any cracks/etc. w/ bondo and/or fiberglass, spot putty, etc...
Your trying to achieve a smooth look w/ the primer...to cover all area's, and especially to soak into your fillers, so it doesn't bleed through.
Next, use a different deeper color primer as your guide coat. This will show you any imperfections and high/low spots. Sand everywhere in a uniform fashion until all of your guide coat is gone, and your left w/ primer again.
After that, give it a few more coats of primer, sand that all down, now you should have a pretty solid foundation for paint.
Use some prep on there, then a tack cloth, and your ready for your color.
I put the heater on roughly 75-80 before I painted (I did it in the fall to keep down on dust and/or bugs. I put down 3 coats of base (black in my case). I let each coat "flash" (dry) for 15 minutes between coats. Then I layed down 4 coats of clear in the same fashion. After that, I waited a few days (as stated above) before I sanded the whole thing down w/ 1000. After that, I washed it clean and dried it completly to see the spots I missed. I switched to 2000 and did the whole thing again. You want to use a light directly in the location your wetsanding as to see the peel. It will show up as "dark" spots/lines as opposed to the flat "dull" parts that are sanded.
Don't stay in one spot too long while sanding. Constantly use long smooth back and forth motions w/ a long sanding block. Small speratic sanding will create lines and/or can damage the finish. After this process is done, I used a wool pad w/ my Dewalt 849 polisher and put some compound down. I got a majority of the big sanding scratches buffed out, then I switched to a "cutting" foam pad. This will start to produce a hazy "uniform" finish. After this was done, I put more compounds on and used a "buffing" foam pad. This will start to produce your final finish. You'll see the "glass" appear right before your eyes.
If, after you do all this, and you see some more spots that you missed, don't be afraid to hit it w/ some sand paper again. Just be sure to use a fine grit, preferably 1500-2000. It will take a few times to cut through your compounds before it will start to sand down any peel. Just remember though, don't sand TOO much, as, your always taking paint off, and once you go too far, it's too late.
The base coat is just to provide you w/ your color...once you have the same color everywhere, that's where the clear comes in. You'll be sanding THIS part of the paint, and never the base. Also, TOO much clear and/or base will make the paint have a tendancy to "Crack" and it will lose it's durability. I've found that the 3/4 combo works best for me.
If there's anything else you would like to know, let me know if I failed to state something. I pretty much covered the general idea's on the process. You don't need a "Spray Booth" to have an awesome finish. All you need is some good planning/make sure it's not raining out/and keep the dust/bugs to a minimum. I just tarped off the inside of the garage w/ some sheets, closed all the windows/etc. w/ two exhaust fans blowing outside, put the heat on to mid temp (75-80), put only an air filter at the gun side, and let 'er rip.
Good luck!!
Fiberglass, on it's own, is far from being "flat"...It takes lots of prep work (depending on the given quality) BEFORE you paint. If you havn't done body work before, it might take some time to understand.
I'd suggest to sand the gelcoat down w/ some 320...use a long block, and foam block around curves, etc. Then, lay some primer on there, and sand that down...give it a few coats...never be afraid of primer...it's your friend
Sand that down w/ 320 as well...if necessary, shoot it again...
Fill in any cracks/etc. w/ bondo and/or fiberglass, spot putty, etc...
Your trying to achieve a smooth look w/ the primer...to cover all area's, and especially to soak into your fillers, so it doesn't bleed through.
Next, use a different deeper color primer as your guide coat. This will show you any imperfections and high/low spots. Sand everywhere in a uniform fashion until all of your guide coat is gone, and your left w/ primer again.
After that, give it a few more coats of primer, sand that all down, now you should have a pretty solid foundation for paint.
Use some prep on there, then a tack cloth, and your ready for your color.
I put the heater on roughly 75-80 before I painted (I did it in the fall to keep down on dust and/or bugs. I put down 3 coats of base (black in my case). I let each coat "flash" (dry) for 15 minutes between coats. Then I layed down 4 coats of clear in the same fashion. After that, I waited a few days (as stated above) before I sanded the whole thing down w/ 1000. After that, I washed it clean and dried it completly to see the spots I missed. I switched to 2000 and did the whole thing again. You want to use a light directly in the location your wetsanding as to see the peel. It will show up as "dark" spots/lines as opposed to the flat "dull" parts that are sanded.
Don't stay in one spot too long while sanding. Constantly use long smooth back and forth motions w/ a long sanding block. Small speratic sanding will create lines and/or can damage the finish. After this process is done, I used a wool pad w/ my Dewalt 849 polisher and put some compound down. I got a majority of the big sanding scratches buffed out, then I switched to a "cutting" foam pad. This will start to produce a hazy "uniform" finish. After this was done, I put more compounds on and used a "buffing" foam pad. This will start to produce your final finish. You'll see the "glass" appear right before your eyes.
If, after you do all this, and you see some more spots that you missed, don't be afraid to hit it w/ some sand paper again. Just be sure to use a fine grit, preferably 1500-2000. It will take a few times to cut through your compounds before it will start to sand down any peel. Just remember though, don't sand TOO much, as, your always taking paint off, and once you go too far, it's too late.
The base coat is just to provide you w/ your color...once you have the same color everywhere, that's where the clear comes in. You'll be sanding THIS part of the paint, and never the base. Also, TOO much clear and/or base will make the paint have a tendancy to "Crack" and it will lose it's durability. I've found that the 3/4 combo works best for me.
If there's anything else you would like to know, let me know if I failed to state something. I pretty much covered the general idea's on the process. You don't need a "Spray Booth" to have an awesome finish. All you need is some good planning/make sure it's not raining out/and keep the dust/bugs to a minimum. I just tarped off the inside of the garage w/ some sheets, closed all the windows/etc. w/ two exhaust fans blowing outside, put the heat on to mid temp (75-80), put only an air filter at the gun side, and let 'er rip.
Good luck!!
05-03-2006, 02:11 PM
#109
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Outstanding paint work.
With so much body work and paint prep, how come your driver door sags so much? Not trying to offend, I'm curious because I've kicked around shooting some paint like that, and might have the same issue. Did you just not replace the hinges? or is it a aftermarket door/skin issue?
TheWesman
With so much body work and paint prep, how come your driver door sags so much? Not trying to offend, I'm curious because I've kicked around shooting some paint like that, and might have the same issue. Did you just not replace the hinges? or is it a aftermarket door/skin issue?
TheWesman
05-03-2006, 02:44 PM
#112
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Safe to assume the engine has been meticulously maintained like the rest of the car?
What's it got?
What's it got?
05-03-2006, 02:47 PM
#113
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 383
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: Det. Posi, Superior Axles, 3:73 G
That has got to be the finest Birds I've ever seen!! You did an amazing job and am sure you are very proud!!!
05-03-2006, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SweetRide45
idk what you mean man. 
They are new hinges and there isn't any sag or play issue w/ either door
They are new hinges and there isn't any sag or play issue w/ either doorTheWesman
----------
Originally Posted by cooltc2004
No idea wtf Wesman is talking about, your car looks fantastic!
TheWesman
Last edited by TheWesman; 05-03-2006 at 06:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-04-2006, 12:47 AM
#120
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Thanks again..
Wesman, ever think it's the angle and/or camera picture that's throwin' it off? It's as straight as an arrow...
92RS, I prefer the Base spoiler over the Formy molded rubber (or the fiberglass one)...
Wesman, ever think it's the angle and/or camera picture that's throwin' it off? It's as straight as an arrow...
92RS, I prefer the Base spoiler over the Formy molded rubber (or the fiberglass one)...
05-06-2006, 02:31 PM
#121
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Car: 1986 camaro, 1993 nissan altima(winter beater, 1992 mustang (summer daily driver)
Engine: 350tpi
Transmission: 700r4 with shift kit
very very nice, just tuck those tail pipes up a bit but good work 
05-19-2006, 11:31 PM
#126
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Yea that car looks great...the paint is just amazing.
Opinons are like a**holes but heres mine, along with the mud flaps loose the windshield banner and don't ever turn on those neons again
Opinons are like a**holes but heres mine, along with the mud flaps loose the windshield banner and don't ever turn on those neons again
05-20-2006, 12:38 AM
#128
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
I figured so...I just wish I could have half the car that is.
I'm not sure of you posted this but how many hours you have into that paint (not counting spraying the car)?
I'm not sure of you posted this but how many hours you have into that paint (not counting spraying the car)?
05-20-2006, 12:40 AM
#129
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Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 H/C/I - 400whp
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12-Bolt(4:30 w/spool)
Nice job rocking the underglow. People don't give it respect on Fbodies, but it looks great. You really should of went with something like Red. Your color is WAY to common on Ricers. Here's my old '91 with Red Streetglow Underglow:
05-21-2006, 12:18 AM
#130
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I'm not sure on how many hours I have in the body work...but it's getting repainted this winter
And the color IS common on my neon, but r!cers couldn't even step UP to me...so, it doesn't matter
And the color IS common on my neon, but r!cers couldn't even step UP to me...so, it doesn't matter
07-26-2006, 01:14 AM
#134
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Car: 91 Formula WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: five speed
Originally Posted by SweetRide45
I know...host went down...I'll get some newer pics up once I'm at the next stage...almost 
The Medium Maui Blue Metallic is peeling off, like the color though and am going to get it repainted that color. Car will look stock from the exterior.
07-26-2006, 09:03 AM
#135
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Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Originally Posted by Julie Bergman
Kewl, I have '91 Formula resto-mod project...hoping to get some ideas! Right now the 383 and T-56 are being dropped in. The Medium Maui Blue Metallic is peeling off, like the color though and am going to get it repainted that color. Car will look stock from the exterior.
The Medium Maui Blue Metallic is peeling off, like the color though and am going to get it repainted that color. Car will look stock from the exterior.
07-26-2006, 11:42 AM
#139
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Car: 91 Formula WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: five speed
Originally Posted by vernw
I like that stock looking exterior myself, Julie. The only giveaways to mine are the dual tips on the hooker catback and the "6.2 LITER" replacement stickers on the power bulge....
07-26-2006, 11:58 AM
#141
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Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Originally Posted by Julie Bergman
Heh! Right on Vern, I have been checking out your project too, it is in my line of thinking.
07-26-2006, 01:13 PM
#142
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Car: 91 Formula WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: five speed
Originally Posted by vernw
Thanks, Julie. I've been thinking about some AFR heads and possibly a miniram or LT1/4 intake, essentially converting it to an LT4 stroker and maybe even adding the SEFI '95 or so LT harness and ECM. Never enough time or money for everything though...
07-26-2006, 03:54 PM
#144
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Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Originally Posted by Julie Bergman
LOL! Indeed Vern. I happened to luck into a great deal on a low mile stroker ('91 TPI block) built by the local speed shop for a fellow CMC racer some years back. He put about 1k race miles on it and yanked it out, has been in his garage ever since. He made me a great deal on the motor, it even came with a TPIs big mouth intake! I'm going with Superram plenum and runners, LPE 219 cam, 1-3/4 SLP headers and Jeff Creech tune. The suspension has been completely redone also with the exception of the springs (I think they are fine). Can't wait to take it out for a spin!
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