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Wet Sanding???

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Old 11-17-2003, 09:27 PM
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Wet Sanding???

i heard that if you have that orange peel looking paint, you can wet sand your car and it will come off. How do you do this? Will it hurt the paint or scratch it? Thanks
Old 11-18-2003, 12:09 AM
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I wetsanded my whole car, it had that "orange peel" that your describing. If you use 1500-2000 grit wetsand paper...it won't scratch it....but just make sure not to go to deep. What I did was have a constant flow of water running (out of a hose) and wetsanded it....it kept it really clean, and the residue didn't dry on it. After it's wetsanded...then comes the polishing compounds. It's alot of work....but's it definently worth it! By the time your done...it's a show room shine....a piece of sand paper will work miracles.
Old 11-18-2003, 03:12 AM
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I have some questions:
How bad is the orange peel?
Is your car recently painted or stock paint?
DO YOU HAVE A CLEAR COAT!!!??????
You can easily sand a hole car back in a weekend & also cut & polish it, Ive done about 15
If you have a clear coat you might as well forget it coz if you go through the clear you will see a big colour & depth change.
If its realy bad then its there for good coz you probably won't have enough paint on your car to take it right back. Although you can minimise the amout of peel.
Use a sanding block & lots of water, its always good to use a bit of soap in the water as well coz this aids in keeping the paper free of clogging which may leave scratches. Use a foam pad with ferecla or 3m cutters & a "bit" of water, then 3M coulouring compond followed by a hand polish. Formula113 is really good.
The cutters makes a real mess if you buff higher than 1400rpm, wash it down as you go paying attention to panel joins etc (guard/door)
Be very carefull sanding & cutting on tight curves & ridges coz the will cut back 10times quicker, the best thing is do you flat panels, then the ridges & tight curves just lightly
Just remember you stuff it up you in for new paint!!
Goodluck

Last edited by JACKO; 11-18-2003 at 03:17 AM.
Old 11-18-2003, 01:13 PM
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Did Exdog from FL-thirdgen.org tell you that?

If so, I'm good friends with him and yes it works. I just paid the 500 dollars for a new maaco paint job, but on the one spot that he showed me how to do it, it was extremely smooth and looked awesome. Even the guy at maaco that appraised my car was like "Damn...Um no the new paint will not be that smooth...what the hell did he do?"

:d
Old 11-18-2003, 01:32 PM
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it's not too bad.....i did get it painted about a year ago at really cheap paint place called "Econo Paint" (the name says it all). and NO, i don't have a clear coat. I think i will try it though. Thanks
Old 11-19-2003, 01:06 AM
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Take your time then & do be carefull: good luck & let us know how you get on
Old 11-19-2003, 09:19 AM
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Originally posted by 84customZ28
I wetsanded my whole car, it had that "orange peel" that your describing. If you use 1500-2000 grit wetsand paper...it won't scratch it....but just make sure not to go to deep. What I did was have a constant flow of water running (out of a hose) and wetsanded it....it kept it really clean, and the residue didn't dry on it. After it's wetsanded...then comes the polishing compounds. It's alot of work....but's it definently worth it! By the time your done...it's a show room shine....a piece of sand paper will work miracles.

Are you saying I have to sand the car AFTER the paintjob was done?
Old 11-19-2003, 09:29 AM
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Originally posted by momokings
Are you saying I have to sand the car AFTER the paintjob was done?
lol..yeah..that's how it works. The sandpaper smooths the paint out...also removing any unwanted debree that might be in the paint. You wet sand the paint....then you have to buff it....I used "Perfect it III" by 3M....it kicks a$$ ....you have to be pretty experienced to buff though...it is VERY easy to cut through the paint or clear if you don't watch out. Also...done under very intense flourescent light bulbs will get you the best results.
Old 11-20-2003, 02:53 AM
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F-bodeee You got mail!!!!
Hope it helps?
Old 12-12-2003, 01:26 PM
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ok i just wet sanded a small part of my car and i am FREAKING OUT, I used 2000 sandpaper and it was soaking wet as well as the surface and now my black paintjob looks dark greyish and doesnt feel as smooth as the rest of the car. Its not glossy either, is this normal before you buff it? If it is what kind of chemical am i supposed to buff it with? Maaco told me not to use anythign with silicone or else it would screw my car up. I found perfect it II rubbing compound is this what i want? Am I doing somethign wrong? The area just looks scratched now, i barely put any pressure on the surface, HELP!!! :hail:
Old 12-12-2003, 01:45 PM
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heres the horrible pics
Attached Thumbnails Wet Sanding???-noooo2.jpg  
Old 12-12-2003, 01:47 PM
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horrible horrible
Attached Thumbnails Wet Sanding???-noooo.jpg  
Old 12-12-2003, 04:00 PM
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geeez man.....you need to go in one direction...

go to one of my old threads..I might have a few pictures posted of how the paint is supposed to look when it's been wet sanded: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=190344


It's supposed to be very smooth....and not shiny...but when you look ta it at just the right angle....it would look like glass....

Last edited by Sickness91Z28; 12-12-2003 at 04:03 PM.
Old 12-12-2003, 04:39 PM
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Ok. Is mine screwed up or is it becase i havent buff it yet? The pics on your thread look nothing like mine. I think the paint came off, i dont know what to do man, i barely touched it.
Old 12-12-2003, 05:05 PM
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Hey no drama! although I did notice dirt or paint scratches.
Did you use a soft block? or just you hand?
Sand horizontal or along the shape of you wheel arch.
3m perfect it is good stuff also use 3M pad glaze use the one that is for dark colored paint (part no#051131- 05996)
Yeah the paint should be grey looking after a sand.
Make sure you use a soft block or a coloring block when sanding & put a small amount of dish soap in the water to allow slippage.
Check your paper for paint buildup coz if you are getting this your paint is too soft or you are not using enough water.
After you have machine cut & machine Buffed hand polish, I use formula 113 all the time for hand polishing.
Old 12-12-2003, 05:26 PM
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I'll throw in my 2 cents. Stay away from corners and sharp edges. The paint is very easy to go through there while sanding or buffing. The best way to get a very flat smooth surface is to use a water DA (dual action sander). I don't have one but have had great success using 1000 grit DA paper on my Hutchins DA (super smooth DA). Since it cuts a larger area, the sanding scratches aren't too deep and buff easily especially on fresh paint (1-2 days).

If I were to do it by hand, I would first hit it with 1000 grit. You want to see a flat, uniform, dull surface. You need to wrap the sand paper around a firm sanding backer. This will give you three new sanding surfaces. You should also have a squegee. Sand a little then use the squegee so you can see how far you have sanded. You may want to add a little dishwashing soap to your water. It helps to keep the paint (cheap in your case) for sticking or packing the paper. In your pictures it looks like you are scratching the paint. Either your sand paper is packing up, see above. Or, you are getting dirt under the paper. You should be able to hear or feel this. The other thing you may be doing is sanding with the edge of the paper. Try to use the middle of the paper. After 1000 grit, you may need to hit is again with 1200, 1500, or 2000. it really depends on the quality of the paint. You need to experiment. I'd start in an area that's no too obvious to start off with. Sand it then buff it. Don't sand the rest of the car until you are happy with the results.
Old 12-13-2003, 12:26 PM
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weve been buffing like crazy just to get it back to the orignial color. I'm not gonna do this to the entire car. I'm sellling it anywya. Thanks though
Old 12-13-2003, 02:20 PM
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It's really a LOT easier if the paint is only a few days old. What compound are you using?
Old 12-13-2003, 02:53 PM
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Sounds like you're doing somthing wrong, its not hard to do if you have the correct method. I'm just not sure what without seeing what you are using & how you are doing it. Wondering what speed is your buff running at ,1400rpm?
Are you using a foam or lambs wool buff pad (foam gives better results) don't expect miricals with only cutters but when you use the 3m pad glaze it will bring back all your color. watch you don't get too much polish in the gaps of your panels coz its a bitch to clean off, you may even like to open your doors & hood put a sheet in the gap then close it so you don't get polish in the gaps.
Old 12-13-2003, 02:54 PM
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turtle rubbing compund i think
Old 12-13-2003, 03:09 PM
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You need to make sure its suitable for the type of buff bad you are using. some work well on lambs wool & others only use with a foam pad
Old 12-13-2003, 03:54 PM
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Ok, thanks for the email Jacko. I finished the 3rd coat of rubbing compound today. The spot isnt gray anymore. It looks the same it did before I scratched it. I'm just not gonna mess with it anymore man. I'm selling the car soon anyway. It does take a lot of time to get this done. I can't picture doing the entire car. In the future i would rather pay for a very nice paintjob so I don't have to deal with this.
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