Anyone got polishing tips for me?
01-30-2006, 01:56 PM
#51
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
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Originally posted by Breazlan
Mike, when you now go from 400 wet to compound, you are not using the scotchbrite and steel wools? I just did it that way and I saw no difference. Did you do those steps wet?
Mike, when you now go from 400 wet to compound, you are not using the scotchbrite and steel wools? I just did it that way and I saw no difference. Did you do those steps wet?
Sorry for bumping but I'm hoping for a definite answer on that, I don't have any scotchbrite or steel wools yet and I'd like to know if I really need them or not.
06-01-2006, 05:34 PM
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Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I'm about to try this.
One question though: how do you know when all the clearcoat is off? Does it look a certain way (if that makes sense to anyone)?
One question though: how do you know when all the clearcoat is off? Does it look a certain way (if that makes sense to anyone)?
06-01-2006, 06:49 PM
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you want to take all of the machined look off with some 180 grit sand paper, once the machined look is gone, the clear coat is gone too. The clear coat will be removed through sanding ,even if you use a clear coat stripper, the machine lines will still have to be sanded out.
05-23-2010, 07:06 PM
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Re: Anyone got polishing tips for me?
I did my intake, will be doing my wheels soon. I used 180 dry, 320 dry then 400 wet on my intake. Then to finish it off, I used Silvo Jewelery polish. This stuff is the best. It's liquid, $4 for a small can. Just rub it onto the surface after youve sanded it, rub it really hard and for a long time .
The rag you use will become black, but just keep going, the more you do it, the better the outcome. Wipe it off with a clean rag, it's done! You can also acheive good results by dabbing it on and letting it dry/flash, it becomes a powdered abraisive then and does an excellent job if you rub it hard when it's dry
The rag you use will become black, but just keep going, the more you do it, the better the outcome. Wipe it off with a clean rag, it's done! You can also acheive good results by dabbing it on and letting it dry/flash, it becomes a powdered abraisive then and does an excellent job if you rub it hard when it's dry
06-01-2010, 09:05 PM
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Car: 1982 Camaro Berlinetta
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Add luster
I have a 1982 Camaro Berlinetta with both sets of stock wheels. These wheel sets are silver and gold. I have only 3 silver due to someone stealing one while it was at a shop. Anyways, i am obviously using the gold sets, my problem is that the gold is very dull. I have used Mothers Mag and Aluminum with a buffer wheel giving the bare aluminum a mirror shine, but the gold looks more like a copper or brass. Ill try to load up a picture later. I have considered a high gloss enamel spray to add shine but that wont make it look any bit like gold color wise. can anyone help?
06-15-2010, 10:56 PM
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Re: Add luster
Just painting aluminum can be a chore in itself.... Sanding, cleaning, etching primer, cleaning, base/top coat..then Bake. Baking - The crucial step in making aluminum wheels keep the paint on them. I could explain in great detail why if you would like but I think that the stage you're at <polished/mirror shine> , you may want to outsource a proper job if you care about your wheels. If you've done the prep work yourself you may be able to take the wheels to a place and get them done for $100 each let's say. It's about $250/wheel to get a full refinish and baked paint treatment here, half of that is the prep. Try it yourself with whatever premade spraybomb you want, doesn't matter what it is, you'll always regret it and end up doing it again very shortly! Also remember why the Camaro line in Sainte-Thérèse Quebec was shut down...1 in 3 cars...Yes, one in Three was sent back to the line for repair before it even left the factory <I know this all for a fact>. The quality in that place was horrendous to say the least...the paint, E-coat and powder coat lines were the biggest problem <body and wheel painting>. So, paying someone let's say $500 to do a good job on your wheels? That job will outlast ANY dumb Quebec special that was on your car before.... period. Want to know why everything is poorly fit on your car? Blame the French...I do!
Last edited by WHITE88IROC; 06-15-2010 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Spelling, grammar, laziness
06-16-2010, 02:05 PM
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Car: 1982 Camaro Berlinetta
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Re: Anyone got polishing tips for me?
haha, well i think i decided to stick with the dull color. it would be great to have that shiny gold color, but the only reason I wanted to see how to polish them is cause it would probably be cheaper than buying new ones. but for $100 i could get some good new wheels. but thanks for the info and history lesson.
02-01-2012, 01:43 PM
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Re: Anyone got polishing tips for me?
I am in the process of preparing my wheels for buffing and was wondering if you have to use a bench top buffer? I imagine it would be rather cumbersome to position the wheel. Should I be looking for a handheld buffer like they use for buffing paint?
02-02-2012, 08:59 AM
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Re: Anyone got polishing tips for me?
i used a dremel with polishing and buffing pads, after sanding with 1k-2k grit sand paper and it looked like chrome after using mothers billet on it
02-04-2012, 02:02 AM
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Re: Anyone got polishing tips for me?
You don't need a buffer, a drill will work just fine. I've used both and much prefer the drill/buffing wheel setup for wheels. Easier to work with and less of a mess. You can get a mirror finish using either, you don't NEED a buffer. Just cuts down a little on time.
High speed buffer does not = mirror finish. A flat level surface, free of imperfections is what you should try to achieve. A perfectly flat, level surface reflects light directly back at you, and would offer a crystal clear reflection. The more imperfections you can sand out, the cleaner you reflection will be. Surface imperfections deflect light in various directions, and hinder your ability to get a clear finish. At least thats how I understand the concept. Could be wrong, I'm not a professional. I have however, achieved near professional results.
Heres a wheel I'm currently working on. Polished up a small section. Sanded 180, 220, 320, 400 before using compounds on a buffing wheel/drill setup. Make sure everything is flat and free of scratches left by previous, lower grit paper, and you should be fine. If anything, invest in a 1/4 sheet electric sander, saves LOTS of handsanding.
High speed buffer does not = mirror finish. A flat level surface, free of imperfections is what you should try to achieve. A perfectly flat, level surface reflects light directly back at you, and would offer a crystal clear reflection. The more imperfections you can sand out, the cleaner you reflection will be. Surface imperfections deflect light in various directions, and hinder your ability to get a clear finish. At least thats how I understand the concept. Could be wrong, I'm not a professional. I have however, achieved near professional results.
Heres a wheel I'm currently working on. Polished up a small section. Sanded 180, 220, 320, 400 before using compounds on a buffing wheel/drill setup. Make sure everything is flat and free of scratches left by previous, lower grit paper, and you should be fine. If anything, invest in a 1/4 sheet electric sander, saves LOTS of handsanding.
Last edited by cavazos31; 02-07-2012 at 01:10 AM.
02-05-2012, 08:49 AM
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Re: Anyone got polishing tips for me?
I use a bench grinder on small projects, but I will use the drill on the bigger heavier stuff, its all about time spent on getting it right.
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