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Fixing to swap from carb to EFI. Been looking at the Edelbrock Pro-Flo systems based on multiport and cost. Seems that people have had good luck out of them. Originally I was wanting to go with the XT, but now Im leaning towards the 4150 style for a simplier install, especially with the 700r4.
Ive got a lot of research to do, but figured I would post up as I go. Currently the car has a 96 5.7, vortec heads, LT4 hotcam, 1.5 roller rockers, long tube headers, Edelbrock RPM intake with 600 holley 4160. Any heads up on what I will run into I would appreciate. Car was originally a v6 and Im still running the electric in tank fuel pump. I know I'll be updating the fuel system and will need to figure out the TV Cable setup. But im looking forward to being EFI. I decided a while back this is all I want the car to be, a good daily driver and EFI will be a big part of achieving. The Edelbrock seems like exactly what I need.
Sounds like a walbro 255 will work just fine in place of the stock pump. Edelbrock has a pressure regulator made for the pro-flo, #17401. I'll probably look at having hoses made to go from the stock fuel lines to the rails and back. Got to figure out the TV cable setup now.
Got a walbro 255 on back order from summit. Plus the regulator. Fuel lines came in. I’ve never put together an style lines but this will be a good opportunity.
looks like the system has climbed up a bit in price but that’s my luck. Hope can order one in a week or two. Sounds like tv cable is as simple as a carb. Which is one of the reasons I decided on pro flo 4 vs xlt.
debating on going ahead and ordering a 3” intermediate pipe for when I have to drop th exhaust and fuel tank.
I was going to go with the complete Pro Flo XT system, but it does not control 700r4 torque converter lockup. I ended up buying just in the intake and making it work on my 383 with 165 ecm and tuning.
I was going to go with the complete Pro Flo XT system, but it does not control 700r4 torque converter lockup. I ended up buying just in the intake and making it work on my 383 with 165 ecm and tuning.
lockup control would be nice. I wired my own lockup control years ago, I’ll just keep it.
now to find the regulator in stock somewhere or swap to a different type. Right now I have the edelbrock fpr that was made specifically for the pro flo. But it is also still on back order since January.
Down to the last item to order and that’s the proflo itself. Looks like it isn’t currently available so who knows how long it will take. I waited early on since I knew I wouldn’t install until the summer and didn’t want part of the warranty to expire with it still in the box. Now I’m looking at a couple month delay at the least.
Confirmed with summit that warranty would start on delivery date not purchase date so I went ahead and ordered to get my name in the list. Couldn’t preorder directly from Edelbrock. I’ve always had good luck with summit for warranty and tech support. Now just to sit and wait a couple months to get everything in.
Kit came in this weekend. Still waiting on the pressure regulator though. I’ve got a couple weeks before I could start install anyways but if it doesn’t come in by then, I may have to look at my other options.
My pro-flo is on the engine and ready to roll. The rest of the car isn't. Good luck. I waited about a month for mine to come in last year. Same with roller cam. Delays, delays.
Started install last week. Started off pulling the tank to swap fuel pumps and check tank condition. Clean as a whistle inside but I noticed some varnish on the outside. Wiped it off and a pinhole popped up. So had to order a new tank. Doesn’t fit near as good as the stock
one. But it’s all in now.
Under the hood I decided to paint what I could while I had a lot removed. Not looking for a show room finish, but eventually I’ll paint the car admiral blue metallic and figured now would be the time to hit the engine bay. Turned out decent.
ran out of time but will start back on it next Friday
Didn’t get much done this past weekend. Had some other stuff going on. I did get my muffler modified and mocked back up. I’ve had an 80 series flowmaster on almost as long as I’ve had the car. Love how it sounds so didn’t want to replace it at this point, or spend anymore on it. For now anyways. Plus when I put longtubes on this winter we installed a flowmaster 3” outlet y pipe but used the stock tiny pipe between muffler and y.
I don’t remember the part number but I bought the 4th gen 3” intermediate pipe mentioned elsewhere on this site. Installing it at the same time. The current 80 series is a 2.5” inlet. I contacted flowmaster a while back asking if there were any internal differences between the 2.5” and 3” and they told me no. The only difference is the pipe diameter entering the case. So I cut it out and opened it up to 3”. Just got to do some more adjusting and measuring then start cutting and tacking into place.
Also got my old intake off and the motor ready for the new one. Just ran out of time.
Didn’t get much time this weekend but got the exhaust welded up and the car back on the ground. List is getting shorter. Intake looks awesome sitting there. Can’t wait to button it up and fire it up.
Man, I didn’t plan as good as I should have. Had to do a few things temporarily since I’m in my dads garage, but finally got it fired up. Need to get the car back to my house and clean up some wiring and tidy a few things up.
Had a couple hiccups that I didn’t expect/think of. First was the heater core input to pass side intake would have hit the fuel rail. Ended up having to use two 90s to get it to clear.
Second, the shipped location for the temp sensor hit the thermostat housing. I’m running vortec heads so I had a bypass plumbed from the water pump to the intake too. Ended up having to use some adapters and a 90 to move the bypass to the drivers side 1/2” npt location. Moved temp sensor to the lower crossover port.
third, I had forgot, even though I bought a coil, to get a coil wire or mount bracket. Ended up making a coil wire that doesn’t exactly match, and found a coil bracket we had saved from who knows when. Mounted it the only place I could think of that fit the harness.
Finally we were ready to turn the key and my cell phone app didn’t find the ecu. Thought it was apple vs android issue. My brother came up and downloaded the e tuner 4 plus app. Wouldn’t connect. Tried the e tuner 4 app and it connected.
took a couple attempts but got it to fire and idle and looks to be doing as it should. Love it so far and haven’t even drive it yet
Got a lot of wiring to finish and clean up. Plus a few things to redo. Existing plug wires don’t really look good or reach as they used to. Also have to hook up ac and a bunch of other things.
Some things I just couldn’t run how I wanted to, but hopefully get it cleaned up and driving shortly.
Ain’t got something right. Will start up and idle fine with afr in 13s. Go to drive it and it goes sky high Has fuel pressure. Got to call it for the weekend. Maybe can work on it in a couple weeks
edit: based on some research on Edelbrocks site, pretty sure the 02 is dead. Which makes sense since it was saying 22.8 lean but was obviously very rich
Last edited by 3rdgenmaro; 01-08-2023 at 01:35 PM.
New 02 fixed the issue. Then after a new set of plugs, she fired right up. Runs good so far. Got a couple places in it that you can feel a stumble or two.
need to clean up the wiring but so far I’m pretty happy. Drove it around yesterday for a bit and remembered why I love the old girl. Think once everything is straightened out and I get some miles on it I’ll be very happy.
Been a bit. Put probably 200 miles on it so far. Had a few issues that I couldn’t quite figure out, had some misfiring and back firing in the exhaust at light throttle. Tried making some adjustments and nothing seemed to work. Then I went back to basics and decided to go ahead and put new wires on it. Turns out a couple were getting brittle and one has burnt through. I went ahead and put some new plugs in, gapped to .035 per Edelbrock recommendation. Just took it for a spin and is running great again. Sometimes need to just go back to basics.
still need to clean up some wiring and get my washer tank reinstalled but it’s getting there. Also got a slight oil leak at the oil pressure tube coming from the block I need to fix.
Also the 3” intermediate pipe from summit worked pretty good. As I mentioned earlier, I cut the inlet off my existing 80 series far enough to where it mated up with the pipe and then welded it back in. Just had to modify the hanger that came with the pipe.
The OEM pink wire that fed the TBI coil is where I pulled the 12V switched from on my 87 G20. I grabbed a new C100 plug connector and built a new and greatly simplified engine harness from the firewall out. The engine bay wiring is 100% new and clean now. My setup only needed like 10 wires rather than the OE 17 or so. Swiched ignition for the EFI, switched 12V for the OE fuel pump relay and oil pressure switch, the alternator and TH400 kickdown relay, 2 wires that feed the fuse block, the oil pressure and coolant temperature senders and the washer pump wiring.
If you are running the ignition coil off the pink wire don't use it for the source for anything EFI. Use it to switch the coil of a relay then bring power directly from the battery so you have a nice noise free signal.
If you are running the ignition coil off the pink wire don't use it for the source for anything EFI. Use it to switch the coil of a relay then bring power directly from the battery so you have a nice noise free signal.
The coil is wired directly to the ECU. No external power feed going to it. The switched wire to the Edelbrock system is switching the relay for the 12V power. My power source is connected to the Mega/Midi fuse box I used to replace GMs horrible and fire prone junction stud they used on the van to tie all the fuse links too. That box is connected to the battery through an 8 AWG wire through a 150A Megafuse.
Been a bit. Put probably 200 miles on it so far. Had a few issues that I couldn’t quite figure out, had some misfiring and back firing in the exhaust at light throttle. Tried making some adjustments and nothing seemed to work. Then I went back to basics and decided to go ahead and put new wires on it. Turns out a couple were getting brittle and one has burnt through. I went ahead and put some new plugs in, gapped to .035 per Edelbrock recommendation. Just took it for a spin and is running great again. Sometimes need to just go back to basics.
still need to clean up some wiring and get my washer tank reinstalled but it’s getting there. Also got a slight oil leak at the oil pressure tube coming from the block I need to fix.
Getting closer. Ignore my temporary wiring
Have you put any more miles on yours? I removed my temporary wiring and finalized the actual harness connections on mine. Have it all on the key now. I also built new 2awg battery cables to use a 24F top post. I installed a new well baffled TBI replacement tank, new TBI sending unit and Delphi Vortec pump in the tank. I plumbed the fuel lines using the OE TBI steel hard lines up to the rear of the engine compatment. Parker EFI hose with Fragola fittings and HP products sleeving over them. With the stock TH400 and 3.08 gears this will roast the right rear P275/60R15 off it at will just dropping the go pedal from a stop. Manifold seems to be making good torque with my combination. 10.25:1 L31 350 with a GM 6492 cam and 1.6 full roller rockers. It is stalling the OE TH400 converter ~2,500 rpm.
01-16-2022, 12:04 PM
