Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I swapped my RS if you want the full shebang look here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...50-vortec.html

The short version is I am running a L31 with a LT4 hot cam through shorty headers. I currently have a 46mm bored out TBI on top of a RPM air-gap.

I have a lot of parts ordered for the swap as well as on hand:

TPI throttle body
HSR vortec intake
Dynamic EFI EBL Flash with port mod
Holley HSR fuel rail kit
24lb injectors (These are at Witchhunter right now)
Car has a TPI fuel pump already

Now my questions:

What are you guys running for a air cleaner set up? I really don't feel like blowing $250 for a factory tpi set up.

I have read in threads of folks using a CTS for a IAT and mounting it in the back of the intake. Is this the right way to go? Mine is currently in the air cleaner, should it go there instead?

Do I need to change any pins on my harness for the EBL or is it plug and play aside from lengthening wires and splicing in injectors?

Will my TBI cruise hook up, I would like to keep it?

Thanks for looking!

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

On a LT1 setup I help swap, used a 3.1 V6 airbox. Almost the same as a V8 except no MAF. I would not use a CTS unless you just want to read the temp of your intake. Instead try a mid 90s 6.5 turbo diesel open cage IAT.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

The V6 box has the IAT in it I believe, that would solve two problems. Now just to find a set up. Thanks Fast.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

No need to move any terminals/wires around at the ECM connectors. Under the hood, wire four injectors in parallel on each driver.

AS for the cruise control cable, that may work but I'm not sure. I am fairly certain that a different throttle cable and TV cable (if auto) is required.

RBob.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Great, I need to dig into the EBL more I just haven't had time. Working 7 days a week at night while watching the 7 month old during the day while the wife works is taking it all, lol.

What about VATS RBob, is it supported? I currently have the resistor faked but still active in the ECM.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Just set the option flag for it:

Option Word 2 - Bit 6 - Vats

If you have the resistor fake done, enabling it in the BIN won't do much.

RBob.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well it still has to be enabled for the fuel pump relay to come on. Thanks for the info, I look forward to getting this all installed. While waiting for parts to come in I am doing some misc stuff. I have the throttle cable bracket wet with primer right now. I am going to sand it very smooth before spraying it satin black.

I wish I could get a better look for my throttle body but I do not have a bead blaster. I took some mothers with a plastic brush in my dremel to it but the results were lack luster. Don't get me wrong, it looks better but I would like an even better look for it. Maybe I will just paint the outside of it.

I took the top cover to work and one of the shop guys is going to mill off the tuned port logo and engrave it with Dynamic EFI for me. I wish you had a fancy logo I could put on it, lol.

I have a few parts to chase down, namely detent cable and accelerator cable. I anticipate my injectors and earl's elbow for the fuel pressure gauge late next week.

RyanJB

I made my CAI out of 3" pipe and put a cone filter on the end, I've done this on two cars with basically the same set up now and it gets the job done.
You can make your cruise control work, but you do need to a TV cable and throttle cable from a speed density TPI car.
Make sure your throttle body clears the bracket that bolts to the side of the HSR for the TV cable and everything, certain years (I forget which) don't clear that bracket.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I have an early throttle body that the instructions say you need for clearance. Thanks for the info, have any pics of your set up?

RyanJB

Had to run mine without a filter for a while. The hood clearance is so limited on a firebird its difficult to plumb one that isn't up against the hood.


This was the only picture I had on my phone of the engine with the intake installed. I didn't have any from the Camaro we did. Its simply a silicone connector to a 3.5" flexpipe from an auto parts store to a cone filter by the charcoal canister. It doesn't look as good as I would like, and unfortunately its really one of the only set ups I could get to clear the hood but it to but it gets the job done and only cost about $30 to build.

Edit:
Found a picture my buddy took at a show after the swap was completed and cleaned up. Also shows the whole intake.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for those pics. I have one ordered that is meant for a firebird that I think I can flip over and make work on the driver's side.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well here is what I am going to try to get to work:

RyanJB

It might hit the hood but other than that it should work. Might need a downward bend near the filter

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, the filter will hopefully tuck behind the headlight. I'm going to try to build a wall to separate it from under hood heat.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well I have a three day weekend so I will make the most of it come Friday. I have decided since I will have it tore down so far to go ahead and remove the heads and install Fel Pro 1094 head gaskets for approximately a half point more compression. Parts are ordered and I can't wait!

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well I took a break at one hour in at one am, lol. Here is my progress:

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well I am mostly together, I got my fuel plumbed up and primed the system and my driver's side injectors are spraying fuel from the top of each injector. I used oil and they popped on easy. I have ordered new O-rings that will hopefully seal it up. I still need to wire my plug wires, find a place for the coil (holy crap where to put that thing), swap out the detent cable, fill the fluids and run a few vacuum lines.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I got the blue LS1 orings on the driver's side and they sealed up the fuel rail. I have reprimed it several times and no leaks! The IAC pigtail came in today so I soldered it in and have it hooked up now. My throttle cable retainer is hitting the elbow on the fuel rail crossover. I am going to replace it with an e-clip. I have left:

Wire plug wires
Mount coil (may just zip tie this to the wiper motor until I can find a clean way to do this)
Fill Coolant
Install TPS extension harness (hopefully it comes in today)
Install and program EBL
Change oil
Install E-clip on throttle linkage

An evening's worth of work if I can get all the parts here.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Okay, I have the motor all together. My fuel rails took to leaking again and Holley warranted the rails and sent me a new set. I put in 30lb bosch 3s and put in some offsets I found online for them.

The car cranks and will try to catch at first but just will not fire. It actually acts like it is flooding.

Okay, I just got the car to fire and run really rough holding the pedal to the floor. I pulled the number one plug and it was fuel soaked. My motor is seriously flooding, how can I remedy this in TunerPro?

Please bear with me, this is a steep learning curve and I am reading constantly. There is just a lot to cover.

ETA: Injectors are 0280-155-759 and I could only find offset vs voltage

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Set the BPWC after calculating it correctly for your displacement, fuel injector and pressure specs. Way back, I ranTPI on an unmoded EBL classic using the TBI injector firing pattern. RBob can correct me if the newer unit is different, but at that time I treated all 4 injectors conmected to one driver as a single injector. I had 28 lb/hr LT4 injectors at 50 psi and remember running a BPWC setting for 120 lb/hr.

Before you completely foul the plugs you can like disable the fuel pump and crank it over until it starts to purge the cylinders of fuel.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, I found some info that agrees with what you said about multiplying the injectors by four. I already have new plugs so I am just going to replace them.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I got the car running, it's rough with lots of popping out of the exhaust. I did about five VE learns at idle and it smoothed out each time but still has popping out the exhaust. I need to set the timing and I think that is going to take clocking the plug wires on the cap because the HSR leaves hardly any room to turn the distributor. I will update later.

ETA: The car is obviously idling very rich according to the fumes burning my eyes, lol.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Are you sure you do not have some valves set too tight? Valves set too tight will cause low idle vacuum, rich running and the popping you mention. If timing and VE learns fail to make it go away, check your valves.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I am pretty sure the valves are set fine, I think I just need to get the timing set and then get some VE learns in.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

How is the tuning coming along?

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I haven't had time to work on it. I am working a lot of overtime at the moment much to my disappointment.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well I had time to mess with the car today and I believe my balancer slipped. I have it marked in quarters from when I set lash and my light is closer to one of the quarter marks than the 0* mark. The engine will not stay running to even get it to the 0* mark. I am going to order a new one and I am going to go with a 8" one this time. I am using a spectre timing tab, so ordering a balancer for a 70 350 chevelle should work right?

I went ahead and timing it by ear, the best I can do at the moment and took the car for a drive after warming it up. The car sputtered and popped plenty but I went around the block while doing a VE learn. I loaded the new bin and tried to do another drive but the car was undrivable with the new bin. It has no power at all and cannot move faster than about seven miles per hour. I am very frustrated at this point.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I am at a loss now, I got my new balancer and pulled off the old one. The timing marks match right up. How can I be almost 90* off on timing? I had the harness disconnected so the computer couldn't advance it and I can't even get it to run trying to get it to 0*.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Have you had time to mess with this again???

If you have the #1 wire and it is 90* off, you are not on #1 you are on #8. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. A 4 stroke engine has 4 firing events per rotation, one every 90*. Double check your distributor oriention, installation and firing order.

However I still think you have a valve adjustment issue. If it won't run with the timing at the correct value, but kinda runs if you really advance the timing, it is typically valve timing (which I am assuming you didn't touch) or valve adjustment (too tight).

No amount of tuning is going to fix a mechanical issue.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...-map-idle.html

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I agree, I need time to toy with it. I have a starter bump switch and a piston stop now (not to be used with each other).

I had about 20 minutes to toy with it, I went old school and bumped it over until it blew my thumb out of the plug hole on number one. I checked the plug wire for number one and it is on the passenger's side. I don't remember if I did that trying to clock the timing or if I am just off on firing order. Any way I got a paint marker so I can trace and label each plug wire.

So until I get time to tinker, there she sits.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I finally had some time to mess with it. I traced each plug wire and painted the top of the boot with the number. Some how the firing order was all kinds of wonky. I swear I'm not a hack, it is just usually dark when I mess with it and my wires are ran under the headers. Fast was right about it being mechanical, it was my thought as well. It idles now much smoother but I just have the timing set by ear. I will get the light on it and set it up. My work needs to give me more time off so I can play with my toys, lol.