banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

I'm wondering which intake is the best choice for me. Is their in pros and cons over the HSR then the TPIS mini. Every where I've read people says you can't have good power with the runner set up. Also I'm going to which heads at this time to and I was wondering what heads has everyone had good luck with. Thanks for everyones help.


Godspeed
U.S. NAVY

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

I had a set of old trick flow twisted wedge heads with the stock tpi, then with a miniram. The miniram is amazing I can buzz my motor to 6k now with no issues. the only "complaint" I had was I felt a little torque loss below 2k rpms.

Since then I put in a new motor with AFR eliminator heads, the miniram and some other goodies. I also went from 3.45 to 4.11 gears in the rear. Perfect match for my 6 speed! I no longer notice the torque loss.

With that said, I know a bunch of people running an HSR and making excellent power and great ETs. Its not a bad intake! But, for the cost you can get a used miniram for nowadays I would grab one!

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

I'm running a comp cam xr268 I think was the part number and the factory heads are fully ported. It's a flat top 350 that was built thanks giving so it's still like new I jus figured that I would change
The heads with the intake. The factory upper and lower intakes are ported along with the SLP runners. But I think I need a better intake to get what I'm looking for. Do you have track times for your car?

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

yup my one and only run was a 13.5 at 114mph. I launched at like 1500 rpms and took it easy. I'm confident that with some practice and more aggressive driving that I could probably get it to mid 12s

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Do you like your AFR's? Which mini ram do you have the 1204 or 1205? I'm trying to decide on what heads to buy?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

What do you want to do withthe car? Without knowing that, how can anyone give suggestions on whats best for you?

You can make good power on a ported TPI setup with SLP siamesed runners but if you want much more than 350whp, you need to spend some money. HSR or miniram will out power a ported TPI, unless you have a cut/welded up runner base from Dr J's Performance like the bases the california guys do (search JerryWho and browse the california members boards here). But a TPI on that level is not cheap.

How fast you want to go? mid 12's can be done with your TPI setup, just get abit better heads and cam to match. High 11's can be done with much bigger cam, heads and HSR. I had a buddy with a 360" (350 bored .060") with stock crank/rods and 280xfi cam with old school AFR 190's with crap springs with HSR run 12.2's at 112 in warm texas air. Had horrible valve float and only made 330whp before floating valves at 5700rpm. With new AFR 195's with their 8019 springs, he could have pulled to 6500 and like made 375whp. His setup was looking like 350's whp if it didnt float valves. That car would easily be a 11.90's car maybe 11.80s

You dont really need AFR heads for 12's but they are nice heads for the price. There are cheaper alternatives to get 12 second quarters...depending on how well ported your heads are, you may have enough flow just need more cam and better intake.

All depends on what your looking for.

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Anything in the 11's I would be happy with and my cam is Comp Cam 264xe and my base is jus mildly ported. I couldn't find anything on those names you gave me but I jus want to get in the 11's or close to it. Would the HSR and heads get me there? Thanks for everyones help and I try to respond in between duty and school.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

HSR and a cam in the 230's duration will get you there if you had AFR 195's or comparable heads. Brodix race rites 200cc, Dart platinum 200's, Profiler 195's, etc.
I like the brodix IK's for the money but they have been having premature valve guide wear so i'm not sure i'd buy them now. I havent had any problems with my AFR heads so far and havent heard problems with them or Darts or Profilers.

Something like that even on stock compression could be close to high 11's with 3600-4000 stall and 3.73 gears

Still be streetable enough although it will have alot of cam lope.

Some shelf grinds that can work are comp cams cc306 aka 290HR-12 or 08-306-8, the comp 280xfi HR13 aka 08-467-8, the old magnum 286HR 08-450-8, xe grind XR282HR aka 08-432-8 but with 1.6 rockers.

XFI use 1.6 rockers, magnum you can use 1.5's or 1.6's although 1.6's will need valve springs shimmed up because that will put you near .600". Thats similar to the cam I had in my mid 11 second 383. It will work well on a 355 with some compression if you can mill the heads or swap pistons to get compression up.

The 280XFI is very streetable for what it is. I was happy with how it worked on my buddy's car. CC306 is abit more aggressive on overlap and will be abit harder to tune.

You can go abit smaller and still get 11's. XFI custom lobe with 224/230 could do it. Custom grind like a 228 deg on intake can get it done.

IF you use AFR 195's with 8019 upgrade spring, you can get up near .600" lift and be fine. You can run a magnum type lobe and set it up with 224 deg with .560" lift on 1.6 rocker and it will be stable and make strong power to 6300 rpm or so shift by 6500. Should run abit better on the street compared to the bigger 230 cams. If you had good springs/strong pushrods, lightweight retainers and didnt mind being hard on the valvetrain, a XE high lift lobe with 224 duration and .606" lift can work for you but it will likely eat springs. I'm not sure but its a pretty aggressive lobe. Replace every 10K miles or so

Advanced induction has a 226/234 grind I believe that works GREAT on LT1 cars and that would work well on a miniram setup for SBC. GTAMatt has that cam I believe and runs 11's on stock L98 bottom end with AFR 195's and miniram.

You have a lot of options here for cams. Lunati has a bunch that can work, old crane grinds like GM846 and 847 can work although 847 is big for a 355 with low compression. That cam screams to 7K, abit too much for stock bottom end.

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

So with a set of AFR 195's, HSR, and the 280xfi cam i should reach close to my goal? Also would you port match the heads and intake? And will thestock injectors need replaced? Do you know any good tuning shops that know what their doing on the east coast beacuse im willing to travelto get it done right? Thanks for everyones help because my time is limited to searching when you work for uncle sam lol.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That combo above in my buddy's car went 12.2 with bad valve float on older AFR 190 heads which arent as good as the 195's. If he didnt have valve float problems, he'd be well into the high 11's on stock bottom end type build.

I would leave the heads box stock, and just port match the intake to the head. If you ran AFR's its roughly 1205 gasket but not exactly that size. You could port match both but I find it simpler to just do the intake to the head port.

Same with Dart or Brodix or Profiler. You could email Chad Speier at SpeierRacingHeads.com. Profiler heads are good heads for the money. Come in around same price as AFR if you get the ported version but the as cast is pretty good and 1295 for a set. Good bang for buck.

You will need new injectors, likely 30lb will do. Thats a pretty bad **** street strip 350 combo. With flat top pistons you'll have the compression to do good numbers.

Justin89formy's car has the mph to run mid high 11's and just needs traction. Another solid combo

355tpipickup

iTrader: (5)

subed for more info about this setup.

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Would you happen to know the part number for the AFR's and I will also email Speier and see how his compares to the AFR's. Also do you know anyone that knows what their doing when it comes to tuning these cars that would get it perfect after the mods and not f**k it up? I'm not asking for anything free either I jus dont have time to bounce between tuning shops who think they know because I'll have to set up an appt and take leave. Orr89RocZ i want to say thanks with all the help you've answered all my questions in every thread i think i've started lol. Your a big help to me because being in the miltary your own time hardly exists and searching takes hours that I dont have.


Godspeed
U.S. NAVY

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I dont know any shops that tune these cars, your best bet is buying the stuff yourself. I have a bin file for the said combo that could work as a good starter. It was dyno tuned but since valvefloat occurred after 5700 rpm, i'm not sure what the air fuel ratio would do. I left it abit rich up top to account for that since my friend was going to swap springs but later found a deal on a 6.0 truck lsx motor. So that motor and parts will be for sale.

The AFR heads I had that fit good with spark plugs and most headers were the 1040's. 65cc chambers, 195cc intake runners, L98 angle plug spark plug locations. My buddy had the old school AFR 190's which are good heads but nothing like the new Eliminator AFR's. If you want to run an aggressive lobe cam above 5800 rpm, i'd suggest the 100 dollar upgrade and get AFR 8019 springs. Its absolutely necessary to have atleast 145-150lbs on the seat for those more aggressive hydraulic rollers. Maybe even a touch more. 380-400 open pressure is good which those springs have 412. I ran those springs shimmed abit more for 165-170lbs on the seat for my big cammed 383 that spun to 7K with no issues.

If you want the most out of the stock shortblock, milling the heads down for compression is what you want to do, but that limits what you can do down the road for other motor builds.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

I heard that valve guide wear on the IK brodix too. They come with phospourus bronze guides instead of the manganese bronze. I guess the phos. wear out faster...

The summit brand street and strip heads 200cc are the same heads as the brodix IK's if anyone is curious about those.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

They are a good deal for the money but you got to watch the guides and really have someone check rocker arm geometry.

Jeg's still has heads I believe and they are based on canfield castings i believe.

Procomp castings can be good heads, but dont use the factory components, they are somewhat cheap. If you had a good casting touched up by a good head ported and installed good components, you'd have a head thats comparable to the rest of the big name heads out there, and maybe even better for not much more investment.

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Well i think i've made up my mind to go with the AFR's, HSR, and the comp 280 cam. Do you know which is better between the hooker headers and dyno Dons? Also, what program are you using to burn that chip for your buddys car? thanks again.





Gopseed
U.S. Navy

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

you can buy the procomp heads bare casting for 250-280 bucks no?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Dyno Dons are probably the best out right now. They have large enough ports to cover the AFR and other heads exhaust ports, and large enough primaries to make good power on most all street motors you'll ever see out there. Hookers are decent but which ones you refering to? 2055's? I dont like how they have a small collector and the 1 5/8" tube doesnt cover the AFR exhaust port well. Unless they changed the design, the set I had 3-4 years ago didnt cover the port so i didnt use them.

You could buy procomp castings for cheap but still require alot of money in port work and components to make into a useable head.... Speier/Dr J's Performance make a 220 cc head for 400+ inch motors that uses procomp castings and its about 800 bucks cheaper than the same "package" on a brodix casting they use for higher end builds. Same 220cc port but the brodix port is abit better when finished. The casting is more expensive as well, hence the difference in price.

The procomp castings are likely good enough but need a good machine shop job to make them worthy of use. In the end, it may be cheaper/easier to just buy a different complete head like AFR/Profiler/Dart etc.

freaky

traction looks to be the first issue i'd fix . at 114 mph quarter you should of been in the mid 12's at least . i run a 12.71 at 113 spinning the rims in the slicks . with a car somewhere between 380 an 400 fwhp . i'd run slicks next time if i was you .
.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Here is one of the threads.....

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...-manifold.html

another...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...owing-tpi.html

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Yeah i'll jus get the AFR's that way their pretty much ready to go out of the box because my time home will be limited so im trying to order everything that way it'll be ready to jus put together when i get leave so i can post some track and dyno numbers. I'll look into dyno Don's headers because i have Banks headers but no one knows anything about them. What program do I need to get that way I can try and tune the car myself? It has a super chip in it but i dont know if that matters or not. Im trying to do all the searching i can this weekend since its a holiday i get a couple of days off. Also is it worth switching to speed dense? Thanks for everything guys.


U.S. Navy
Godspeed

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Should be fine on MAF for those goals. I find it easier to tune. Go to moates.net and look up the burn2 programmer and GP1 chip/adapter package. Those you need to do the chip burns and then the ALDL scan cable is needed to log the car.

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

That program looks interesting should be fun to play with. Will the factory mass air support what im looking for? Also is a AFPR needed? Orr i think you got the baddest/coolest third gen on here lol.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thanks, but its not even close to some of the cars on here... Many fantastic rides on this site.

MAF will be ok at that power level. AFPR isnt needed but recommended with the HSR since the holley units have been known to fail alot. MIne never did but the best regulator is the Kirban Performance unit for a grand national. It fits the stealth ram. I dont know if the non adjustable regulator from Holley is any good or not but you can run a stock Grand National type setup but I think they are 38psi and our cars normally run 43. AFPR is only really needed to raise pressure if your pushing the limits on the injector size you have, and it does help improve spray pattern

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Also would you recommend a bigger fuel pump? As im finally starting to get to order evrything. Thanks again.

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Got my HSR yesterday, going to try and order injectors this week. Hopefully ill get it together soon and post some numbers.

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

What are the best injecters as far as quaility and performance?

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Have you heard anything on the comp cam xfi292?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yes, its a big cam. Way to big for a stock bottom end car and in general, I wouldnt use it on a 355 motor. Its more suited for a high compression 383 or 400" motor.

Some LT1 guys use it on the heads/cam stock bottom 350 LT1's and claim it idles better than the CC306 and runs better too but they both have similar amounts of overlap and are extremely rough idling. Its a powerful cam when used in the right application. If you kept those lobes and tightened up the LSA and put it in a 406 with good short runner intake, it would likely be a 450whp car with great heads and tune. Could be possible.

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Well, the reason i was asking is because a friend of mine had a tuning shop build his motor, and they used the 292 but its a 355 with edelbrock heads, ported factory lower and upper with SLP runners, flat tops, 36lb injectors and a 3k stall, it dynoed at 456hp and 527tq that is to the tires. I havnt got to ride in it but my brother said his cammed SS LS1 got walked on by it. I was going to order a 385 stroker kit and that cam my my HSR and AFR 195s, so i was jus wanting someone elses opinion before i spent the money.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Those numbers sound more like engine dyno numbers. OR with boost/spray. I've never seen a 400whp TPI using factory lower with SLP's or anybody's runner. And 527wtq is big block numbers.

That cam is a huge mismatch for a 355 with TPI. Something doesnt sound right? But to walk on a cammed LS1 takes alittle bit of power...depends on the cam tho

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Im sorry I stand corrected, he has an Accel base. On a side note will those AFR 1040s clear Dyno dons and Hooker LT? Is the Accel injectors better then the holleys?

scamaro355

comp suggested the xfi 280 cam for my 355.. and im still not sure...lol

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

He had that first and it sounded pretty good but he wanted to try the 292 and its bada**, but his tuner went threw 6 proms before he got it right.

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

As far as injectors go, I'd avoid any of the Accel ones. Their newer ones (I think it's the silver series) are supposedly much better than what they had a few years ago, but I'd still avoid them. The old Ford Motorsport SVO injectors are tried and true, that's what I'm running and I've been very happy with them, or you could go with a set of the newer Bosch generation 3 injectors. I've heard nothing but good things about them for the most part. They're said to have a better spray pattern than the SVO's and provide a smoother idle. Only real problem with them is the length is a bit shorter, so most places offer custom ones that are proper length for TPI applications. The older SVO's are a direct fit though. I'd also definitely recommend an adjustable FPR. While it may not be crucial to have, it's always nice to be able to fine tune your fuel pressure to exactly where it runs best. I also agree with Orr that you'd probably be best off sticking with the MAF system. It's a much easier and more forgiving system to get in tune compared to SD, especially if you're totally new to tuning PROMs. It's a steep learning curve figuring out how to get a SD system dialed in on a modified engine. While my setup isn't near as radical as yours is going to be (355, AFR 190's, 10:1 CR, Superram intake, Comp XE269, 52mm TB), the only problem my stock MAF PROM had with running it was the fact that I increased injector size from 22 to 24 lbs. So yeah, it should be much easier for you to get it in proper tune with the MAF system.

banksGTA

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info, injectors can be a little pricey so i didnt want to buy some junk stuff. I belive ill try the Bosch 3's and see how well they work.